While many here will steer you away from a glass tank for housing a BP (due to humidity requirements), it can be made to work. But you have to realize that
the plastic type cages many use have very little to almost-no air exchange to make that work. It's not as if humidity can go thru either glass OR plastic......
it's all about the air-flow. So to make it work, you need to cover more like 99% of the ventilated top.
Heat lamps are also notorious humidity-"thieves". If you used UTH, for example, the heat would be rising up thru your humid substrate. And all heating equip-
ment should be controlled by thermostat for safety, due to the higher warmth needed by BPs. All this is why you should always have your enclosure set up for
testing for at least a week before bringing home a snake, that will only be further stressed by you having to keep making changes when he is new & scared.
NEVER LEAVE A LIVE RAT IN THE CAGE WITH YOUR SNAKE...THEY GET HUNGRY AND WILL CHEW ON YOUR SNAKE, & IF YOUR SNAKE IS NOT READY TO EAT,
IT WILL NOT KILL THE RAT, IT WILL JUST BE TRAPPED & GETTING INJURED. Your snake & the rat are NOT "buddies". Not now, not ever.
Often the reason a BP won't eat (besides being handled, being new & scared, being fed the wrong way or wrong rodents or wrong size...) has to do with the
cage temperatures. What are they? -the highest & lowest?
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