Looking at Bloods....

[pretends2bnormal]

Honestly, go for the best breeder you can, and ask for the calmest individual of the morph/species you're interested in. I got my boy at VPI and did that, and from day 1 as a 175g sausage he has yet to strike except at food.

I wanted a boy (typically a bit smaller as an adult) and a blood, and asked for that, so I got this super calm and very pretty ivory male.

*tapatalk always rotates my pictures....*

VPI was great to work with.

As for other things... start small with tubs for juices, these guys are shyer than ball pythons and appreciate security, at least for a start and slowly work toward a bigger enclosure. Breeders keep them in small tubs & I've been told that they adjust slower than most, so it could take longer to get them reliably eating if you jump to a bigger cage immediately. (Something to be aware of if you don't want to do the juvie tub)

And for juvies, especially in smaller tubs without a large space to get away from a hot spot, just give them ambient targeting 82, and try to keep within 80-84 for most of it, low temp of 78 at night. Adults/big enclosures can have hot spots 86-88, but if there is not a dry and a wet space that is around 82 for them to fully fit into, I'd skip the hot spot. Most blood breeders use pure ambient.

Generally, really pissy bloods are too hot, too humid, or both. You want around 60% humidity and not to have wet substrate. From VPI, (at least their animals) bitey babies are largely the result of too much heat or giving a hot spot, so they recommended to me to be sure to avoid that.

No clue about personality differences male vs female. Most of what I've seen is anecdotal and is just individual driven. Supposedly males are more unpredictable, but I've heard that about various species and never really seen much that is definitive proof.

Also, most important pro tip.. make sure to only fill a water bowl so that when the snake sits in it, it will not overflow. I messed that up early on... and he soaked his tub. Oops.

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