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Re: My baby ball python strikes my hands and face
Do NOT feed her in another container. This is more confusing for a snake, & you're MORE likely to get bites, both before & after; your snake is thinking "food!" &
there you are, warm & wiggling around like prey. In addition, after eating snakes stay pumped up to pounce on prey for anywhere from hours to a day or more. You
are asking for bites, IMO. (Also & FYI, some snakes will refuse to eat if handled before being fed...you're lucky she's eating when you've handled her first.)
Snakes have different personalities- in my experience, I sometimes appreciate most the ones that make me work harder to figure them out & calm them down. Look
at it this way: if they were all "easy" like your other one, what would you learn? 
You say you handle her 3-4 times/week, but not over 5 minutes: that's all wrong, IMO. Snake have to overcome their instincts about being "picked up". Normally, in
the wild, the only thing that wants to pick them up is a predator about to eat them. (yes, our face is scary to a little snake!) Therefore, you are MOST likely to get bit
when you approach & pick up your snake, and how you do it matters. Give them time to recognize your scent & touch, & remember they don't recognize us visually!
In handling for such a short time, your snake never has time to learn to relax & feel sheltered by you. Cuddle them close to your body so they feel like they're hiding.
If a snake is very fearful of you (remember, they assume we're some giant predator!) you might try putting a small cloth/towel over them so they feel like they're hiding,
& meanwhile, they get used to your scent & touch. And since the approach & pick-up is the scariest thing, 5 minutes or less just doesn't cut it...it makes them a nervous
wreck (unless very mellow by nature, as your other one seems to be). They need time to learn to trust you...sit still & watch some TV or read while cuddling your snake
for a little longer (say 30 minutes+) so they have time to adjust & learn about you.
Remember that snakes that are either shipped or bought at an expo are very stressed- so do be patient. Try to imagine how confusing it is to them...their whole world
has changed & they take that as a threat. You say you're getting "a little intimidated" but you're the "giant" here...your snake is terrified, and justifiably so.
Your UTH (heat pad) needs to be regulated by thermostat...otherwise your snake may not be warm enough, or may actually get serious (life-threatening) burns. You also
want the cool side of the tank to be about 82* & the warm side (over the UTH) to be about 90-91* max. The best time to test your cage is before you bring the snake
home...she may well need more (or less!) heat. You need to be able to accurately measure the temps. in the cages...this is critically important, especially with BPs. Please
do this A.S.A.P.
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