Is my BP stressed/sick or am I just a worried snake mom?

[Dianne]

First a question to clarify where your thermostat probe is for you uth...it should be outside the enclosure between the tub and the uth (preferable), or outside the tub on the bottom of the uth if it is adhered to the bottom of the tub/cage. Also you want to check the surface temperature for the bottom of the tub just above the uth with a temp gun (usually $10 on Amazon) rather than the surface of the substrate. Also never trust the thermostat temperature alone as there can be a variance between what the probe reads and the actual surface temperature. Snakes can and do burrow into the substrate so they are directly on the heated surface.

The cool end temperature is low at 70F as you want to aim for 80F. Your uth mostly provides belly heat and isn’t a good way to boist ambient temps, especially in a cool room. The light can be left on but will affect humidity. I would place it about midway on the tub so that the uth is your hot spot, the bulb is a warm zone, then you have the cool end. You can continue spraying to boost humidity or add a humid hide. I just purchased a product called Reptile Prime to use in some humid hides as my cages are running drier than normal due to increased use of my heat pump. Also there could be inaccuracy of the hygrometer if it is the stick on analog type. The digital should be more accurate...many of us use a brand called Acurite ($6-10 on Amazon).

As for the moist or sticky feel of her belly, that can be from sitting in moist substrate. You don’t want it too moist as that can cause skin issues, but what you are describing doesn’t seem like that would be the issue. There really shouldn’t be loose skin per se, though they can have some wiggle to the skin...we shouldn’t feed them ‘til they look like bratwurst. If you can post some pictures of her and the setup, that would help. I use a free app called Tapatalk...works well for the technologically challenged like me. LOL As for shedding, they get dull when in “blue” (preshed) but will go back clear just before shedding. Once you see it the first time, you’ll know better what to watch for going forward.

As for differing opinions, that’s pretty much par for the course. Some people are adamant about their choices, and that’s okay, but you’ll learn about lots of ways to accomplish the same results. As for handling, it’s more for our pleasure than theirs, but most snakes adjust and tolerate it, and I believe some do enjoy being out and exploring. If the snake stays balled up (hiding head and exhibiting fear) or is frantically trying to get away, I try to keep handling sessions short 5-15 minutes. They will learn you aren’t a threat and begin exploring, crawling on you like you’re a heated tree, and generally trying to smell (tongue flicks) and get into everything (keep an eye out for cracks and small openings...they can get into incredibly small spaces). The flight response is a pretty obvious difference than calm exploration.

Last but not least...Welcome! Ball pythons are loads of fun and very addictive. This is a great group with a lot of experienced keepers that are willing to share their knowledge. Almost everyone tries to be very conscientious about providing information to new keepers and pointing out when something is outside the normal or proven way of doing something. Ultimately we all share a love and passion for these amazing creatures.