My First Snake Rack Ever!

[Sonny1318]

It looks like much more than 2 millimeters to me, but maybe I’m seeing the photo wrong.
i agree that 2 millimeters is good

Depending on the picture anywhere from 1/8 (.125) to over 5 /16 (.312). It’s hard to tell from the angles of the photos. Just was bored and looked.

[LunaBalls]

Soooo I figured out how to add them!

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[LunaBalls]

For adding photos, you want to copy the link to the right of the photo in Photobucket that says "IMG". If you copy and past it into a post, your image should pop up.

Congrats on deciding to get back into the hobby. There are a lot of new genes at play now and many that were once super expensive that have dropped in price, so you'll have a good selection to choose from.

Thank you!! I added the pictures, but could not edit my original post so they are on the second page.

2 tips from an experienced rack builder.

1) this is ESSENTIAL! the space above your rack tubs is too large and I guarantee you, your snakes will escape the tubs easily if they want to. The space needs to be very small unless you have tub lids, which are cumbersome.

2) not as essential... that plywood will get moist and warp or maybe even mold. So what I did was waterproof the boards with deck paint.looks pretty good though.

Yes, I agree, the gap is too large, but I am not sure what I can place in between to fill the gap. Any recommendations for that? I will be sealing the rack with a water based Polycrylic tomorrow afternoon, I can't wait!

Looking at the pics the gap seems to be around 2 millimeters? Which should be fine - I used the thinkness of 2-3 cd's to set the gap space when building mine.

I want to say its a bit more, I will measure it tomorrow. The photos don't do much justice as I was doing trying to take the pictures with one hand and measure with the other.

Looking at the tub sizes used and depending on the heat tape used it may work with a central notched shelf support as well. I agree it is a good idea though.

Also how are you planning on "locking" the tubs in to avoid accidental opening? I used corner blocks swiveling at one end. Then again I have neither cats nor children.

I am considering maybe placing a moving lock in the center, but they will also be in my room at all times, so I am not sure if I really, really need it haha.

It looks like much more than 2 millimeters to me, but maybe I’m seeing the photo wrong.
i agree that 2 millimeters is good

Yes, the photos do no justice! I will obtain the measurements tomorrow, would you have any recommendations on what can be placed in between to fill the gap?

Depending on the picture anywhere from 1/8 (.125) to over 5 /16 (.312). It’s hard to tell from the angles of the photos. Just was bored and looked.

Yes, the photos do no justice! I will obtain the measurements tomorrow, would you have any recommendations on what can be placed in between to fill the gap? (Copied and pasted)

Thank you all!!

[LunaBalls]

Hi guys,

I decided I could not wait until tomorrow lol, so I went ahead and tried to obtain the measurements. I also tried taking better pictures to be used as a reference.


^The gap is between the first 3-4 lines, I believe its between 0 - 1/8 (correct me if I'm wrong) or (3MM-4MM) (Can a baby ball python fit between that space?


^This is the middle level, there is no gap per se, I'm just hoping that the tub can slide in and out with no issues after applying the sealant and heat tape. It's slides ok at the moment. (This tub has no lid in this picture)






^ For the top and bottom level, I realized that the tubs slide in and out with no issues, with the lid on! So I'm considering just using the lids for the top and bottom shelf, I figured it is not a big deal, it's my first snake rack haha. I can also use it as an alternative if I don't find anything thin enough to fill the gap.(Both tubs in this pictures have the lids on)

[RXLReptiles]

Leaving the lids on will work if that's the route you decide to go, on the racks I've built I usually will have a gap of about 1/8-3/16 of an inch, but they are designed for adult BP's.

That being said, I don't see a baby BP making it through a 1/8" gap, but the gaps on yours appear to be closer to 1/4". But it also appears as though the shelf is curved kinda upward, so try putting all your hides and bowls in the middle tub and see if it's gap opens a little and the lowest shelf gap closes.

If that plywood has some flex to it though I'd definitely consider using lids on the bottom and top tubs, but make sure both the lid and sides are ventilated well so there is enough airflow.

[LunaBalls]

Leaving the lids on will work if that's the route you decide to go, on the racks I've built I usually will have a gap of about 1/8-3/16 of an inch, but they are designed for adult BP's.

That being said, I don't see a baby BP making it through a 1/8" gap, but the gaps on yours appear to be closer to 1/4". But it also appears as though the shelf is curved kinda upward, so try putting all your hides and bowls in the middle tub and see if it's gap opens a little and the lowest shelf gap closes.

If that plywood has some flex to it though I'd definitely consider using lids on the bottom and top tubs, but make sure both the lid and sides are ventilated well so there is enough airflow.

Thank you all for your kind words and recommendations, the rack is all finished and sealed! Now for the heat tape, and the snakes! Any recommendations on less expensive thermostats?

[MR Snakes]

Why don't you just put a piece of 1/8 or 1/4 peg board or ply or something on the shelf of each level to close the gap?

[Godzilla78]

Thank you all for your kind words and recommendations, the rack is all finished and sealed! Now for the heat tape, and the snakes! Any recommendations on less expensive thermostats?

I don’t recommend it, the thermostat is the most important safety device for your snakes.

[pretends2bnormal]

I don’t recommend it, the thermostat is the most important safety device for your snakes.

Agreed.. OP, consider the value and number of snakes you'll have in that rack. Racks generally are run with 1 probe for all the heat on it, so if it malfunctions, do you want to risk however many hundreds (or even thousands) of dollars of snakes you may have as you fill the rack, just to save some small cash now?

A $35 on/off thermostat could work, even possibly for years, but if it fails, you risk cooking ALL of the snakes in the rack as they often fail in the on position (and skimming reviews on popular ones, there are often DOA devices or ones that fail after only a few months). The possibilities are burns, neurological damage, or straight up dead when you open the tub. Unless you're keeping all normals or pastels or similar sub-$60 morphs and it is money you're comfortable risking that for (not to mention emotional cost of losing pets), it is far more worth the security to get the higher end thermostat.

A herpstat ez1 is the absolute cheapest I would consider for a rack. It isn't digital and that saves some on cost, but has their safety features and proportional style for $79:
https://www.spyderrobotics.com/index...b7s591vs4megd5

Personally, for the small cost difference and ease of digital, I'd just go for a herpstat 1 ($115). It is one of the top of the line thermostats, and many people here and elsewhere use them for years and years without needing to repair or replace them.

A thermostat is the most important tool for a snake keeper on par with the heating and enclosure itself; this is the worst place to be stingy with money.

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