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Thread: Feeding f/t?

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  1. #9
    Registered User Traceur's Avatar
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    Re: Feeding f/t?

    Quote Originally Posted by dakski View Post
    Yes^^^^^^^^^^^^What Craig said.

    DO NOT USE A FEEDING TUB! BP's are easily stressed as is. Do not add stress and increase the likelihood of refusal by using a feeding tub. For what it's worth, many snakes, who eat anything, anytime (many colubrids such as corns and boids like Boas) will eat in a feeding tub, but have fun getting a 7FT 20 pound female Boa out of one after eating! They stay in feed mode for 1-2 days! There many reasons why feeding tubs should not be used, and it varies by species. Most species it is for their benefit, but with some, it's for the keepers safety.

    Here is the BP feeding chart. I recommend using it for size and days in between feedings for young BP's. Adults tend to tell you how often they want to be fed by refusing meals they don't want and often fasting in the winter. My BP, Shayna, once and adult, refused 2/3-4 meals when fed weekly. I moved to every two weeks and she eats 4/5 meals now on average. She still fasts for 5 months every winter, but since she pounds medium rats all summer, it's no worry at all.



    Secondly, when offering F/T to a BP, especially one that isn't used to eating F/T, you want to mimic a life prey item as much as possible. Move it around on the tongs a little, not drastic movements. Do not scare the snake. DO NOT bump the snake with the prey item, rather, let them come to it, or bring it closer, but not too close.

    DO NOT remove the snake from a hide. If it's in a hide, dangle the prey item in front and the let snake come grab it. If it doesn't eat within a couple minutes of offering, you can leave in the tank up to overnight. However, you must remove within 12 hours or else you get a rotting rodent and that's not good for anyone.

    In case it was not clear, USE TONGS! You will probably want them now, but will definitely need them when he's bigger.

    Also, and very important. BP's hunt at night. Offer at night, with tank lights off, and minimal room light. Just enough so you can see what you are doing. Much higher likelihood of success.

    Equally important, if he refuses, wait a week to offer again. Do not over offer, that will just scare/bother him and put him off F/T.

    Finally, here's a step by step instruction I wrote about defrosting F/T prey. With prey that small, it will probably defrost in warmish/room temp water within an hour, but as the instructions say, check and make sure.




    This is my step by step list on defrosting F/T rodents.

    Others may do it differently and that's fine. This how I do it and it works for me.


    STEPS FOR DEFROSTING F/T RODENTS/PREY

    1. Put prey item(s) into appropriate size plastic bag (1 for each). I use Quart size ziplock bags up to a medium rat. NOTE: Bags are optional. Some people just throw the prey in the water. I like the bags, but you have to squeeze the air out of them.

    2. Fill the container/storage box 3/4 of the way with room temp to slightly warm water. If you have a temp gun (which you should, so if you don't, get one), make sure the water is not hotter than 85-90F, or there about.

    3. Put F/T prey item(s) in water. Cover (optional) and leave for an hour +/-.

    4. After an hour, rotate/flip prey. If in plastic bags, they often will stay on whatever side you put them in on. So if mouse is on left side, turn to right side, etc.

    5. Leave for another hour +/- for a TOTAL of about 2 hours (up to medium sized rat - longer if bigger prey for when ROE is bigger and eating Large rats, for example).

    6. Check that prey is defrosted totally through. Squeeze at different sections of the preys body. Should be cool/room temp to touch, but be soft with no cold spots. If hard (except for bone), in abdomen, for example, or cold, put back in water until room temp and soft.

    7. Take prey out of the container/storage box and put aside. THEN FOLLOW STEPS 8-11 OR STEP 12

    8. Fill container with hot water from tap. If using temp gun, water temp should be 110-130F, not more.

    9. Drop prey item into water for 30 seconds +/-. If multiple prey items, do one at a time. You want each item hot when you offer.

    10. Remove (if hot water, with tongs).

    11. Dry as best as you can, and is quickly as you can, with paper towels. I dry with paper towels while I am walking from the bathroom where I defrost to the snake tanks. I kind of wrap the prey item up in them. It's ten feet, so by the time I get to the tanks, the prey is drier, but still warm.

    12. If not using hot water, use a hairdryer to heat rat so it entices snake

    13. Open tank and offer ASAP.
    Good golly, thank you! That really helps!
    When should I start weighing him? I read that it's important to weigh your snakes to make sure they are at the correct weight. I've heard people say to weigh them before feedings. So when would be the best time to do that?

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Traceur For This Useful Post:

    Craiga 01453 (09-05-2018)

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