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Corn Troubles
Just got a call from my boss and we had a person show up a work with a "looks like a corn-snake" (I haven't seen it yet and can't yet verify species, still waiting on a picture) that they were going to turn loose outside if we didn't take it from them. I'm off today but will be going in to check it out and help get the husbandry set up in the clinic. For health issues I would assume they act the same with RI and mites as a ball python?
I don't know how big it is yet - but I'm guessing small rats are not something a corn of any size can handle...so I would guess that mice would be in order.
I'm going to do some quick husbandry research but any quick tips would be greatly appreciated.
So I guess I will be taking care of our new clinic pet lol. I don't think all of the clients will be as ok with it sleeping on the bench in the lobby like our house cats do :/
No cage is too large - nature is the best template - a snoot can't be booped too much
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Re: Corn Troubles
From my experience, corns are easy to care fore and generally easy to handle. Put it up on display in the lobby and most will enjoy it as well.
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Re: Corn Troubles
Originally Posted by Skyrivers
From my experience, corns are easy to care fore and generally easy to handle. Put it up on display in the lobby and most will enjoy it as well.
Yep
Generally lovely temperament, quite active compared to some ..
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Re: Corn Troubles
Corns are great. Easy to take care of and usually good temperaments. He’ll like it a bit cooler than BPs, and will be much more active and fun to watch lol.
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0.1 Bearded Dragon ("Reka")
0.1 California Kingsnake ("Cleo")
0.1 Cinnamon Spider Het. Albino Ball Python ("Syd")
1.0 Hypo Bredl’s Python (“Oz”)
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Corn snakes are pretty easy...feed mice of appropriate size, normally take f/t easily; humidity not usually an issue though they love a humid hide, & need
way less heat than BPs & boas. They like "room temperatures" (70-80*) with a UTH in one corner at 86*+/-. They also like to climb & will use branches...
while I prefer to use UTH, you could also do a set-up with an overhead light for warmth instead. Yes, issues like R.I. or mites are the same as with other
snakes. No, please don't leave it "on the bench" to be a cat-toy. (BTW, good ventilation is best for corns...glass tanks w/ screen top recommended, &
they'll use both a warm & cool side 'hide' in cage.)
Last edited by Bogertophis; 08-14-2018 at 01:23 PM.
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Re: Corn Troubles
Thanks for all the replies. Haven't gone in yet - hopefully I can convince the practice owner to let me keep it long enough to pass a standard QT and have it eating well before finding a home (or rather keeping it for good lol - trying to convince them we need a good reptile vet anyway)
No cage is too large - nature is the best template - a snoot can't be booped too much
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If you do put it in a glass tank with screen lid make sure you use locking clamps. A corn can push a screen lid off.
Silent Hill Reptiles and Rodents
https://www.silenthillreptiles.com/
1.4 Carpet pythons
15.21 Corn snakes
1.1 of SD reticulated pythons, cali kings,black house snakes,trans-pecos,northern pines
1.2 Japanese rat, 1.3 natrix n. natrix
6.1 Balls, 1.0 orange Halloween ATB, 1.0 bci
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Re: Corn Troubles
going to check it out now - fingers crossed it's not an abuse case
No cage is too large - nature is the best template - a snoot can't be booped too much
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Re: Corn Troubles
Originally Posted by 67temp
If you do put it in a glass tank with screen lid make sure you use locking clamps. A corn can push a screen lid off.
Yeah, that goes without saying! They climb well, are active and small enough to slip out any weak spots.
I hope this snake is healthy too & not an "abuse" case.
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Re: Corn Troubles
OK, so boss said no to keeping her at the clinic due to several employees who "fear" snakes....so, I'll be taking her home. She (just a guess) is about 5.3 ft and 830 grams, very skinny, incomplete shed (thankfully head and eyes are clear). She is covered in scars around her face and head, so I'm guessing she was fed live, and the tank she came in is full of poo and urine and mold from the water bowl. No sign of mites or infection, mouth is surprisingly clear. Have a vet visit this weekend.
She is calm but defiantly seems hunger driven towards movement, that tank looks like a 55 short? too big to be a 40gal breeder and too small for a 75 gal and has locking lid. Also heat is unregulated heat mat and 150 watt red bulb - both are going in the trash. I've got a spare dome lamp and ceramic bulb on a dimmer - running out to get a thermostat and new hides/substrate.
Hopefully she is hungry enough to eat f/t, but she's so skinny I'm not going to try and wait her out at this point. **But here's my concern - with my ball I waited 2 weeks for him to adjust before feeding, and while not in immanent danger of dying of starvation - I would like to try and get food into her. Should I wait though? I'm going to be changing a lot today (bedding, giving new hides, new water bowl, new everything) and I don't want to add regurge to the list of things to worry about.
No cage is too large - nature is the best template - a snoot can't be booped too much
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