A) welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of snake keeping!!
B) follow Deborah's advice. It's time tested and proven the most reliable way to get a young BP eating
C) usung a seperate feeding tub is old school and proven counter productive over time. Moving the snake stresses the snake, increasing the chance of refusal. Moving the snake back to the enclosure increases the chance of a regurge as well, if the snake actually does eat. Lastly, it greatly increases your chancing of being bitten, as the snake can remain in feed mode after being in the feeding tub.
D) Your hot side temps are a bit high. I never go above 90, but the max recommended is 92.
VERY IMPORTANT: ARE YOUR HEAT SOURCES REGULATED BY A THERMOSTAT??
E) That pink belly could mean one of two things:
- Most likely, the snake is going into shed. If this is the case, bump your humidity to about 70% until she sheds. She most likely won't eat during shed either. She'll likely stay in her hide until she sheds.
- OR, an unregulated heat mat (UTH) could be too hot and be burning the snake. Thus is why the thermostat question is so important.
F) As for feeding frequency, don't offer food too often. Offer once a week, regardless of whether she eats or not. If she eats, awesome! Feed again.in a week. If not, wait a week and try again. Trying too often can stress the snake and end up leading to more refusals.
G) Lastly, also VERY important: are you handling the snake?? Handling too soon or too often can stress the snake. And stress = food refusals.
Hope this helps! Feel free to ask any questions you may have!