Thermostats

[hilabeans]

I would recommend the Herpstat 2 at a minimum. Chances are you are going to end up with a second heat source or a second BP before too long. The Herpstat 2 is only $56 more than the Herpstat 1 ($195 vs $139).

I bought a Herpstat 1 for my first BP and shortly thereafter realized I needed to add a CHE (which ended up going on a Jumpstart). Recently, we purchased our second BP and I decided to expect the inevitable and purchased a Herpstat 6.

I tend to agree. I would consider a 2 the minimum. I bet you could call them and swap it out.

[AnnieHeart]

I would recommend the Herpstat 2 at a minimum. Chances are you are going to end up with a second heat source or a second BP before too long. The Herpstat 2 is only $56 more than the Herpstat 1 ($195 vs $139).

I bought a Herpstat 1 for my first BP and shortly thereafter realized I needed to add a CHE (which ended up going on a Jumpstart). Recently, we purchased our second BP and I decided to expect the inevitable and purchased a Herpstat 6.

Why will I need a second heat source?

[larryd23]

Why will I need a second heat source?

You may not. It really depends on your viv and your environment.

I had my first BP in an Exo-Terra viv, which does not maintain heat or humidity very well imho. I live in NY and the temp in my home during the winter is typically 72 during the day and 66 at night. The Ultratherm UTH I had at first was able to maintain 90-92 degrees for belly heat on the warm side, but my ambient temperatures were way too low. I had to add a 60 watt CHE to maintain my ambient temps at 80-82 degrees.

So... in my situation I needed one heat source for ambient heat and another for belly heat.

[hilabeans]

Not sure where you are located geographically, but seasonal changes can make it difficult to keep your snake's ambient air temp at a steady 77º-80º throughout the year. I like to keep my home AC around 72º-75º in the Summer and 68º-70º in the Winter. In order to keep my snake's habitat at a constant 78º-80º, I use a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) which needs to be regulated by the second Herpstat feature.

If your ambient air temps fluctuate widely throughout the year, you may need a CHE in which case you'll need to run two thermostats.

[AnnieHeart]

So you guys are meaning I may need a second source of heat for my ambient temperature, not my hot spot? Or, that if my hot spot isn't very steady then I need to add a second heat source for my ambient temperature which would make my hot spot a steady temperature?

[hilabeans]

You need to provide a thermal gradient in your enclosure - so a warm side and a cool side, with an identical hide on each side.

Warm Side:
A UTH provides belly heat only, it will do nothing to warm the air in the enclosure. Your snake needs that belly heat to digest, so the UTH is important. The surface temp of your enclosure, inside the tank - just above the UTH (which is under the tank), should read no higher than 90º. Provide a hide on top of your UTH for your snake to curl up in while it digests it's meals for a day or two. This is your warm side.

Cool Side:
Your cool side hide will be opposite the tank from the warm hide, and in the upper 70s to 80 degrees. If you are able to keep the room of your house that your snake is in 77º to 80º year round, then you don't need to worry about a secondary heating source maintaining the ambient temps in his tank. But like I said, that's generally not feasible. So a Ceramic Heat Emitter is typically used to maintain the cool side temps. And you must plug the CHE into a thermostat to make sure it doesn't heat over 80º. This takes care of the cool side and maintains the ambient air.

[AnnieHeart]

You need to provide a thermal gradient in your enclosure - so a warm side and a cool side, with an identical hide on each side.

Warm Side:
A UTH provides belly heat only, it will do nothing to warm the air in the enclosure. Your snake needs that belly heat to digest, so the UTH is important. The surface temp of your enclosure, inside the tank - just above the UTH (which is under the tank), should read no higher than 90º. Provide a hide on top of your UTH for your snake to curl up in while it digests it's meals for a day or two. This is your warm side.

Cool Side:
Your cool side hide will be opposite the tank from the warm hide, and in the upper 70s to 80 degrees. If you are able to keep the room of your house that your snake is in 77º to 80º year round, then you don't need to worry about a secondary heating source maintaining the ambient temps in his tank. But like I said, that's generally not feasible. So a Ceramic Heat Emitter is typically used to maintain the cool side temps. And you must plug the CHE into a thermostat to make sure it doesn't heat over 80º. This takes care of the cool side and maintains the ambient air.

I know about having a cool side and a warm side, I was just confused as to why I need a second heat source when I'm getting the thermostat for my hot spot...
Do you think the herpstat will be able to control my hot spot and keep it at 90 when my house temps fluctuate?

[hilabeans]

Hmm, not sure how else to explain...

You will need a secondary heat source (CHE) if the ambient/cool side temp in your tank cannot be maintained within the proper range - which is 77º-80º. If the air temps in the room stay in that range then you will not need a secondary heat source. But most people do not keep their homes heated year round at 77º-80º, thus the secondary heat source.

Again, a UTH will not raise ambient air temps. It only provides a hot spot for belly heat. Your Herpstat1 will control the UTH just fine. But if you are using two heat sources (UTH and CHE) - then you would need a Herpstat2.

[AnnieHeart]

Hmm, not sure how else to explain...

You will need a secondary heat source (CHE) if the ambient/cool side temp in your tank cannot be maintained within the proper range - which is 77º-80º. If the air temps in the room stay in that range then you will not need a secondary heat source. But most people do not keep their homes heated year round at 77º-80º, thus the secondary heat source.

Again, a UTH will not raise ambient air temps. It only provides a hot spot for belly heat. Your Herpstat1 will control the UTH just fine. But if you are using two heat sources (UTH and CHE) - then you would need a Herpstat2.

Ahh, okay, makes sense. Sorry for being so confusing, this is my first ball python and sometimes it can be confusing for me to understand how to meet their needs. I am understanding it now, thankfully! You guys were so helpful.

Since I got my BP at a time when it is our hotter season I haven't had to worry about ambient temps because I shut my windows so that it stays nice and warm(literally 80 degrees) in the room she is in, and so her ambient temp is 80 degrees. In the winter though, I will definitely have to probably use another heat source.

[hilabeans]

Yeah - it's tricky to explain things sometimes for me when I can't gesture, LOL! I use my hands a lot to explain what I mean. If you are able to, try and change your order to a Herpstat2. You will need the secondary heat source in the winter and having one unit control both is soooo nice.