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Thread: GTP feeding

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    BPnet Lifer Sauzo's Avatar
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    Re: GTP feeding

    Quote Originally Posted by fluffykitten View Post
    So my neonate GTP is being rather stubborn at the moment it's been 4 weeks in a row that he has refused food. The first two weeks he ate like a champ even tho it was the first time he's had a f/t mouse. I was told that before he was on live pinks. I was able to just tap him on the side and tail and he would strike and eat. But lately no such luck even with annoying him trying to get a strike he won't. Currently he's at 17g. I have been trying at night with the lights off with the exception to the lights from my other cages so have just enough to see what im doing. I have tried even varying the temp of the pinks to 88 to almost 100 degrees.
    His cage is 12x12 with a few perches for him to hangout on and some fake leaves to give him some place to hide. The cold spot is 77 to 79 with a hot spot of 92 to 93. Mist him in the morning and night to keep his humidity around 75 to 90 percent. During the day he does not really do much. At night he really starts to move around and exploring his cage.
    I'd like to see this little noodle get back on track so he can get big and strong. So if anyone has any ideas or suggestions id like to hear them.
    Drop the temps. I keep mine at an ambient of around 77-79 throughout the cage. He has one small spot at the back right corner that has a little Nano CHE and a t-stat set to 85F. GTPs generally dont like it really hot. At least he isnt grounding so you got a plus there.

    Second, dont mist the snake. Most babies hate being sprayed with water and it can piss them off or stress them out. I personally never mist my cage and im using a Zoo Med 18x18x18 cube. I just cover the top with tin foil and leave a hole in the back right corner for the CHE. I use Reptichips on the floor with a large water dish and a live potted plant. That keeps humidity around 65-70%. You dont want a constantly wet cage. That will create RI conditions.

    Also give us a pic of what you got. The snake might not feel secure. Pat LOVES plastic plants so i have 4 of those in cage which he will sleep next to and play around on all night long. It's a good sign he is at least exploring at night.

    When you offer him food, are you just touching him? Sometimes you have to kind of smack em around to get them good and pissed lol. Also you can try and pinch the snout of the pinky mouse to create blood.

    Also is the snake drinking? A dehydrated snake wont eat. Again, need to see the set up. Do you have elevated water bowls? Have you seen the snake drink? Are you injecting the FT with water?

    Neonate GTPs really arent that hard from what i have seen but you need to get it right. There is too much that can wrong if you dont know what you are doing. But otherwise, to me, they are as easy to care for as my BCI boas.

    To give you an example, here is Pats cage. I got him about 3 months ago when he was about 10 inches long. He was a little bit of a problem feeder for the gal but now, he is about 20 inches long and eats like a horse every 5-7 days. After about the 4th day, he is out in force at night looking for food or perched at the front of the cage staring out the door lol.



    Also, if i didnt emphasize it enough, you need to make sure the snake is drinking. They use liquid to digest food. They also lose liquid to too much heat. They also piss out liquid. And neos will dry up quick. Try and hold a little tiny bottle cap of water to the snakes face during the day. It might drink. Pat drank water that way at first. Then he figured out the elevated little water dishes and found his large water dish at the floor which he swims in pretty much nightly. I still inject his FT fuzzy mice with water though to make sure he stays hydrated even though i have seen him drink.
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