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Re: How often should my boa be defecating?
Depends on the individual. A few of my boas poop within a week of eating, most take 2-3 weeks, and my sunglow can hold it in for a good 2-3 months sometimes.
I wouldn't worry that he's only pooped once.
 Originally Posted by Dutti
If you are feeding him a small rat every two weeks, why do you excpect him to poop a lot? He is not getting that much food. If the rat was bigger, or he ate more frequent, then he will poop more. my BCI poops after he digests the meal. He eats every two weeks and poops every two weeks on average. I feed him 12 or 24 hours after he defecates
Assuming OP's small rats are in the 45-80 gram range, a small rat every 2 weeks for a 460 gram 3' boa is more than plenty. I have 600 gram sunglow who just got switched to small rats every 3 weeks this past week, she's been eating weaned rats every 2-3 weeks since she hit about 300 grams. My 1,000+ gram, 4' male also only gets a small rat every 3 weeks. Boas don't need as much food as you would think, and honestly it's incredibly easy to overfeed them, leading to obesity, heightened chances of fatty liver disease, drastically reduced lifespans (especially if the diet isn't corrected once they're older), and other health and digestive issues.
My adults only get a large rat every 4-5 weeks, and are generally fasted 3 months every winter, or at least fed half as often.
 Originally Posted by Sauzo
I wouldnt worry unless you see something like serious backup. Sausage butt if fine and usually means a poop is coming very soon lol. Just be sure to keep him well hydrated as low hydration combined with too much or too big of food can cause back up issues or prolapse. Eating big meals takes a LOT of liquid to digest. Combine that with low humidity and low water intake and you got a disaster waiting to happen.
It's like people say you need 70-80% humidity for snakes to shed. i call BS. All my snakes including my GTP shed one piece just fine at 65-70% humidity. I dont raise it during a shed or anything. Just keep it constant 65-70%, sometimes dropping as low as 60% in the winter but i prefer to not keep it that low.
And stick to smaller meals. There is no reason to see how much your snake ca eat. It isnt going to starve and us as keepers generally overfeed as it is. No need to compound it more by giving huge meals. Even my retic gets average or smaller meals. He could easily power down a 4XL guinea pig but i give him jumbo rats and XL guinea pigs.
They can definitely shed pretty easily all the way down to 50%, but I generally keep mine 70-80% because I notice better skin condition at the higher humidities. I don't get bent scales, those lines in their side, or dry-looking scales, but once it drops below about 60% I start seeing signs of low grade dehydration, though they may shed whole pieces. I don't like my hands to get dry, I assume they don't like to be dry either. lol
Last edited by CloudtheBoa; 02-21-2018 at 09:49 AM.
8.3 Boa imperator ('15 sunglow "Nymeria," '11 normal "Cloud," '16 anery motley "Crona," '10 ghost "Howl," '08 jungle "Dominika," '22 RC pastel hypo jungle "Aleister," '22 pastel normal "Gengar," '22 orangasm hypo "Daemon," '22 poss jungle "Jinzo," '22 poss jungle "Calcifer," '22 motley "Guin")
1.4 Boa imperator; unnamed '22 hbs
3.3 Plains garter snakes
1.2 checkered garter snakes (unnamed)
~RIP~
2.2 Brazilian rainbow boa ('15 Picasso stripe BRBs "Guin" and "Morzan, and '15 hypo "Homura", '14 normal "Sanji")
1.0 garter snake ('13 albino checkered "Draco")
1.0 eastern garter ('13 "Demigod)
0.0.1 ball python ('06 "Bud")
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