New BP isn't feeding?

[bubs]

Hi everyone,

I'm sure this question is asked a lot, but I'm having some trouble getting my new snake to feed.

I joined this forum in 2013, and I've been lurking around since then. I finally had the opportunity to get my first snake. He's a funky ivory, and was hatched in November. I brought him home on January 13th. Here's a picture of him.



I have him set up in a viv, with his warm spot being around 91-94 using a UTH and thermostat, and the temperature on the cool side substrate around 77-78. Ambient temp is around 78-80 and humidity is never below 50, usually 55-60.

He fed on a f/t hopper mouse 9 days after I brought him home. It took a little bit of movement and he didn't strike, but he finally ate him. It's since been 2 weeks and he refuses food. I know snakes can go a while without eating, but he's still small so should I be getting worried? The breeder, and the place I got him from said he had been feeding consistently every week with no problems.

I have a lot of moss and fake plants in his tank, with a branch, and a fairly large water bowl on the cool side. I only have one hide on the warm side, but he burrows in the moss on the cool side. He cruises around a lot at night, and doesn't seem to use his hide much at all. Is this a concern?
Should I get another hide for him? I'm not sure how to get him to eat again and since I'm a newbie I'm starting to worry about him.

Any help would be appreciated.

[MD_Pythons]

Yes, get him another hide. You need two identical hides in a viv, and you may want to look into downsizing the enclosure.

[bubs]

His enclosure is only 20 gallon right now as he's still small. I didn't think it would be acceptable to go any smaller than this? I'll read that link now.

I forgot to mention that his eyes seem to be going slightly cloudy but its only at the very top of his eyes. They have been like this for a couple of days. Does this indicate shed or do they have to be completely blue? I thought maybe that could be why he is uninterested in food, but I haven't seen anything about snakes with only slightly cloudy eyes.

[MD_Pythons]

His enclosure is only 20 gallon right now as he's still small. I didn't think it would be acceptable to go any smaller than this?

I forgot to mention that his eyes seem to be going slightly cloudy but its only at the very top of his eyes. They have been like this for a couple of days. Does this indicate shed or do they have to be completely blue? I thought maybe that could be why he is uninterested in food, but I haven't seen anything about snakes with only slightly cloudy eyes.

Yes you can go smaller. I have a bp in a 6qt tub and some people go smaller than that.

[Sunnieskys]

I would move down. I still have Odyn in a 10 gallon and he is 290g. He will be moving up soon but he is still comfy.

[Alicia]

I forgot to mention that his eyes seem to be going slightly cloudy but its only at the very top of his eyes. They have been like this for a couple of days. Does this indicate shed or do they have to be completely blue? I thought maybe that could be why he is uninterested in food, but I haven't seen anything about snakes with only slightly cloudy eyes.

Yes, he may be in shed. While some of mine will eat all through their shed cycles, others go off feed before even going cloudy.

In addition to what others have said -- downsizing and adding a cool side hide -- I'd also suggest dropping your hot spot to something more like 88-89, without messing with the cool side/ambient temps. Temps in the low 90s are toastier than necessary, and can throw a snake (especially a young snake) off feed. For me, I actually like to run tiny babies at 87-ish or just under.

[Craiga 01453]

He may be coming into a shed, but first and foremost, you need to focus on your setup.

You definitely need more than one hide. And your hot spot temps are too high.
I never go above 90 anywhere in my enclosures.

Husbandry and security are the two major reasons a young BP will refuse food. You have issues with both.

I suggest reading over the husbandry 101 stickies on this forum as well as the stickies on how to properly set up your enclosure, which, even a 20 may be too big.
Start there, make some adjustments and don't offer for at least 5 days after that.

Lastly, a hopper mouse is too small for a BP. They eat hoppers fresh out of the egg for their first few meals, generally 3-5, then quickly move on to small adult mice.

Good luck, hopefully I helped get you pointed in the right direction

[CALM Pythons]

Hi everyone,

I'm sure this question is asked a lot, but I'm having some trouble getting my new snake to feed.

I joined this forum in 2013, and I've been lurking around since then. I finally had the opportunity to get my first snake. He's a funky ivory, and was hatched in November. I brought him home on January 13th. Here's a picture of him.



I have him set up in a viv, with his warm spot being around 91-94 using a UTH and thermostat, and the temperature on the cool side substrate around 77-78. Ambient temp is around 78-80 and humidity is never below 50, usually 55-60.

He fed on a f/t hopper mouse 9 days after I brought him home. It took a little bit of movement and he didn't strike, but he finally ate him. It's since been 2 weeks and he refuses food. I know snakes can go a while without eating, but he's still small so should I be getting worried? The breeder, and the place I got him from said he had been feeding consistently every week with no problems.

I have a lot of moss and fake plants in his tank, with a branch, and a fairly large water bowl on the cool side. I only have one hide on the warm side, but he burrows in the moss on the cool side. He cruises around a lot at night, and doesn't seem to use his hide much at all. Is this a concern?
Should I get another hide for him? I'm not sure how to get him to eat again and since I'm a newbie I'm starting to worry about him.

Any help would be appreciated.

Everything sounds ok to me except the 1 Hide situation and 4/5° too warm. My snakes wouldn't use the Hot hide if it went over 90°. Even now they use the Cool hide (80°) 99% of the time... That is a clean ivory. Gorgeous. As far as the tank size we all have a preference. I myself never used Tubs or tiny tanks. I have used a 10gal for quarantine but I've even moved that up to a 20L, 33L & 40 gallon breeder's. So for me id say there is absolutely nothing wrong with your enclosure size. You mentioned all the Decor and that helps them feel secure so your good. Get a Cool hide (I suggest 2 simple RBI Mediums) as they're easy to clean, light weight and very secure. That size would last until around 700 grams if I remember correctly. But at a few dollars each you cant beat it.
Also incase I missed it, cover 3 sides with cardboard or Dark paper. Other than that just wait and offer only once a week.. Like you mentioned a shed could be coming. Mine take 3 weeks of during shed time and eat like a Hog after.

[Txhoney89]

I'm having the same issue, although my little guys eyes are not cloudy at all. My temps are 90-77, mopani wood an leaves hidey area, hides i made out of dollar tree cereal bowls, one on each side. A bowl of water that he glides through when he feels like. I've had him three weeks, offered f/t first, and then 2 different options of live. He seems head shy when it comes to eating still though. If they make any sudden movements he is back to hiding.

[bubs]

Everything sounds ok to me except the 1 Hide situation and 4/5° too warm. My snakes wouldn't use the Hot hide if it went over 90°. Even now they use the Cool hide (80°) 99% of the time... That is a clean ivory. Gorgeous. As far as the tank size we all have a preference. I myself never used Tubs or tiny tanks. I have used a 10gal for quarantine but I've even moved that up to a 20L, 33L & 40 gallon breeder's. So for me id say there is absolutely nothing wrong with your enclosure size. You mentioned all the Decor and that helps them feel secure so your good. Get a Cool hide (I suggest 2 simple RBI Mediums) as they're easy to clean, light weight and very secure. That size would last until around 700 grams if I remember correctly. But at a few dollars each you cant beat it.
Also incase I missed it, cover 3 sides with cardboard or Dark paper. Other than that just wait and offer only once a week.. Like you mentioned a shed could be coming. Mine take 3 weeks of during shed time and eat like a Hog after.

Thanks for the help, I've left him in the viv for now but turned down the UTH. I picked up 2 identical small plastic potting bases for hides until I can find more permanent ones. They're slightly buried and I added some more moss so they're hidden. He still seems to be completely uninterested in them and he's cruising around the tank now as I write this. Both outsides are covered in black paper, and the back has the tank backdrop.

I will give it a couple of days before I try feeding, and if he still won't eat, I have purchased all the things needed to change him over to a tub. I don't want to risk ruining my UTH on the viv so I can get the probe out until I absolutely need to.