How to make a glass type tank work with humidity?

[The Night King]

Is anyone having definitive humidity success with an exo-terra type terrarium?


I'm struggling with mine and it's driving me crazy lol


My poor little fella had a so so shed (2-3 large pieces then a few small pieces) about 10 days ago and still has a lingering piece on back of neck and is a little head shy so I can't quite get it off.


Here is my setup:


* Ecoearth as substrate


* Ultratherm UTH with thermostat for hot side


* CHE (black light) with lutron dimmer for cool side.


* Aluminum foil on top


Hot / warm side stays at 90/80. Humidity is 45'ish constantly. If I mist the tank down, it'll go up to 70 for an hour then start dropping.


I recently added sphagnum moss in a bowl and also on top of hot-side log hide, then misted, then watched the humidity. Same thing. Went up for 60-75 min then started dropping.


Is anyone having success with a glass type tank like mine and if so what are they doing different. I would think results would be easily replicated if the setup mimics another right?

[bcr229]

I would get rid of the half-log wood hide, they mold in high humidity environments anyway. Put a ceramic or plastic hide in its place. Put the moss under each of the hides so at least it's humid under them if not in the whole enclosure.

[SDA]

Welcome to the world of glass terrariums with screen tops in most locations. You could always make a damp hide for when your snake is going into shed. If that won't work the best thing is as soon as you notice a pink belly you start keeping the moss and tank misted down at least twice daily iuntil out of shed.

What are you using to measure the humidity?

I would say the best thing to do is to fit acrylic on the top and seal it with a cut out larger than the light like just cut a square out with enough space away from the light. Lowes or Home Depot can actually cut plexiglass/ acrylic for you. You can even silicone it over the top. This will make it so the top doesn't get opened but you have the front for that.

[The Night King]

Would I be better off just getting rid of the CHE and using another UTH with thermometer under the cooler side?

ill change the log hide to a plastic one but I never ever see him on the side tbh.

I've read several times about making a humidity hide but does the Moss need to be misted INSIDE the hide? I'm always confused about how to get the moss wet IN the hide with the snake in it? Just spray into the hide even with the BP sun the hide? Seems like that would stress him. I try not to handle the snake when he shows signs of shedding. He doesn't come out of his hide either during shed so just not sure how I'd get the area INSIDE the hide misted.

Do they make good PVC enclosures with top access too? The front access only is just a sticking point for handling right now.

im using the Accurite 2067M digital thermometer.

[SDA]

I really would not worry about top down access. Getting a decent sized PVC like an animal plastic T10 would work prefect for access. The whole point of these enclosures is limiting air flow thus making it retain humidity much better. That's why I suggested the acrylic over the current screen top to limit air flow.

Don't worry about spraying inside the hide. Spraying the sides and lightly misting the substrate is more than enough to get the humidity going. Having moist moss near the hide should be more than enough.

[Ss laser]

I wonder if the light is burning off the humidity?

[Booper]

I have CHE in my wooden vivs (Can't help with glass, sorry) but I put a damp flannel (wring it out so it dosen't drip) under my CHE when my babies are in shed and it bumps the humidity up fantastically.

[KevinK]

As SDA was talking about......When I did have glass tanks I would use a CHE (60 watt) in a mini dome for a 20gallon long in conjunction with an under tank heater......both heat sources on thermostats.

Then (to address the humidity problems you're going to have with this setup) I would cut a sheet of 1/4" Lexan (a type of plexi) to cover the screen top with the exception of a large hole to clear the mini dome and leave maybe 1/2" of clearance around it. So, if your lamp fixture is 6" in diameter, cut a 7" circle in the lexan. Your lamp fixture should then be sitting directly on the screen top. I SPECIFICALLY recommend lexan as it is relatively heat resistant. I know for a fact as I have taken a blowtorch to it for other projects and it does not like to hold flames and it can take incredible amounts of heat without melting or offgassing. However, take care to keep the lamp fixture centered and not touching the lexan just to be safe.

[The Night King]

Thank you for all the info. I may go ahead and look at investing in an AP cage.

My little fella is 300g but growing fast. He is about 6mos old. I feed him every 6-7 days. Currently hammering F/T rat pups.


Looking at T10 or T12. T12 is likely preferred only cause it is a higher tank and may help with access. 48x24x24


Seems like this would be the only tank I'd need for him once he is full grown too Correct?


Is this the best value for this size tank? Are there typically any Black Friday sales on PVC cages? I'm assuming with the proper setup (heat, thermostat, etc) the heat and humidity is easy to maintain and just set it and be done with it for the most part? Or do you still have to tinker with misting, adding sphagnum moss etc?

[KevinK]

The best "value" if you will is a T8. The T10 is also a good buy.

That will accommodate even the largest female BP for all her life! You will be good to go! The T10 and T12 are easier to clean.... however I don't ever find ball python's using the extra added height which is why I chose the T8.

As far as humidity goes you should be set as well, my AP T8's hold almost perfect 55% humidity with newspaper or indented kraft paper substrate and using a small water bowl. This is the primary reason why I stopped using glass tanks....PVC cages solve all your problems with a slightly greater investment.

If your room stays at common household temperatures (low 70's) you should think about getting a radiant heat panel. Call Bob at Pro-Products at he will set you up.

I use only radiant heat panels (65 watt pro products) in my cages (T8's) and they maintain perfect ambient temperatures and hotspot temps at the same time.