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Re: Im Getting My First Ball Python
Congratulations on your first ball python - super exciting!!! I'm not sure how much you've researched, so here's a bit of general information from this site: http://www.reptilesmagazine.com/Care...s/Ball-Python/
1.) Caging
- Ball pythons, starting from a baby, should have at least two stages in the enclosure time in it's life.
- A ball python under 2 feet (a baby ball python) should be kept in an approximately 20 gallon tank.
- When the snake surpasses 2 feet, it should be moved to its larger, permanent tank. An adult ball python should have approximately a 36x18x12 inch enclosure (30-40 gallon tank).
- If you don't want to/can't afford to get an additional 20 gallon tank for when it starts as a baby, a 30 gallon tank can be fine if there are a lot of plants/decorations and such.
- The cleaning/accessory sections of the provided website are good, so you should definitely reference those.
2.) Temperature
- In the cage, you should have a full temperature range with a cool side and a warm side. The entire cage should have a temperature gradient ranging from 80-92 degrees.
- The hot side is the "basking" side, and should remain at a constant 90-92 degrees.
- The middle should range from 82-85 degrees in the day, and drop a bit at nighttime.
- The cool side should remain around 78 or 80 degrees.
- *NOTE: There is no "perfect" temperature range. The range used will vary from owner to owner, but as long as the temperatures are approximately right, you should be good.
3.) Heating Methods
- I personally recommend a heat pad. You stick the pad under the cage, in the section you want your basking side (approx. 1/3 of the cage), and plug it in so it heats the bottom of the cage. The snakes need the belly heat in order to digest food.
- You NEED a thermometer to measure the temperatures. I recommend: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/...tat-with-probe
- It also might benefit you to purchase a temperature gun.
4.) Lighting
- Extra lighting is pretty much not necessary for snakes, and can actually be somewhat detrimental.
- Constant lights agitate snakes, and they thrive best on a 12 hour light/12 hour dark schedule.
5.) Bedding
- For a list of good bedding options, visit: https://www.thespruce.com/bedding-op...-snake-2662258
- This is personal preference as to what you think would look best, or how much you're willing to clean/wash. Personally, I suggest Cypress Mulch on top of one layer of newspaper. This makes for aesthetic, and it's a bit easier in the cleaning process. Since newspaper is very cheap, it's not much of an investment to just put down the layer underneath. I would suggest this for any other bedding as well, but Cypress mulch is just personally my favorite.
6.) Food
- Here, you've got two options, live or thawed rats.
- I prefer live, as some snakes are picky eaters and won't eat thawed, but I also feel that it's a bit more natural for them. Like anything though, there are pros and cons to each choice. Research food options a bit to see which you would prefer. If you are squeamish, you might prefer thawed as well.
- You can also feed them mice, though the snake won't grow as fast.
- You can feed your ball python once anywhere from 1 to 2 weeks.
- After a snake reaches a year old, they will sometimes stop feeding, but this is normal.
7.) Water
- The water bowl should be emptied and refilled with clean water at the end of each day
- The bowl should be sterilized at least once a week
- The bowl should be deep enough for the snake to be able to occasionally bask in it, but not too deep. About an inch is recommended.
8.) Handling
- When buying a snake (shipping, pet store, etc.), it is best to not handle it until it has eaten about 3 times. The snake needs time to gain a bit of trust so it doesn't see you as a threat.
- Every snake varies in how often it likes to be handled. I had a snake who would curl around my neck or in my lap every day, and I had another who would rather hide than be held. If your snake is in striking position, it's best to leave it alone for a bit. You really have to determine your snake's personality type before you begin excessively handling it.
- It's also best to not handle snakes if you plan to feed them that day, they often won't eat within a few hours of being held.
This is more a summary of general tips, along with some of my own opinions, but I do hope it helps. If you were looking for other types of advice, let me know and I'll be happy to help!
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