Setup questions... tips/suggetsions appreciated

[neur0tix]

https://image.ibb.co/nH7ETa/21325840...49278991_n.jpg

Newb here. Any helpful tips or comments appreciated.


Basking spot temperature: 90-92F
Ambient: 80-82F

During Day: 150W ceramic heat bulb w/ dimmer (on very low setting, not bright)
At Night: 50W blue nocturnal bulb
24/7: Zoo Med UTH w/ R-Zilla 1000-Watt Thermostat

Digital Thermo/Hygrometer on warm side, regular thermometer on ambient

Aspen Bedding
3 x Organic Driftwood Tree Ornaments
Various fake pants attached to sides of tank
Plastic solid black hides
Water bowl w/ conditioner

[artgecko]

Welcome to the forum! Nice looking snake! Appears to be a butter or lesser, possibly pastel.

The only comment I'd have is maybe consider just using the ceramic heat emitter 24/7 and not using the "night bulb". I've read that the snakes can see the bulb and that it might disturb their normal activity levels...Not sure if that is accurate, but just thought I'd share the info.

If you have him in a glass tank, you may want to cover 3 sides with contact paper to help him feel secure. Some people actually use insulation boards to help hold in heat.

Also, if your enclosure has a screen top, you may have difficulty holding in humidity. If that is the case, you should consider covering part of the top with plexiglass or foil (there is a foil screen top sticky note on one of the forums somewhere about this).

Lastly, aspen molds quickly when exposed to water. Many people use coconut husk bedding to prevent this (I like prococo or repti-chips), some use products like "forrest floor" etc. I would keep an eye on your aspen and change it out as needed (i.e. when the snake decides to go swimming and splashes water everywhere). Also, look into getting a thermometer / hygrometer combo unit. Accurite makes a great one that I purchased on Amazon (I think it is called an indoor / outdoor thermometer / hygrometer) Ihas a probe as well as reads ambient temp / humidity). I place the probe over the hot spot (on top of UTH) and secure it with hot glue, I sit the unit on the opposite / cold end of the tank and it reads humidity and ambient temps there.

[Zincubus]

Maybe a photo of two people of the set up then everyone can make suggestions..
I use the free TapaTalk app to upload photos ..

For what it's worth your stunning snake would look much better o some dark coloured substrate like Orchid bark which also holds moisture better than aspen ...

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[neur0tix]

I can't get him to eat..... first time tried, nothing happened. Just now, he took three shots at it but missed each time... (WTF?) Then he had no interest anymore. Should I just lay it there and close the tank, or keep trying to make it "dance" around

[KevinK]

Give him an entire day to get situated, do not hold him, do not bother him. If you can, try to even stay out of the room he's in. Then, try again tomorrow. Repeat if he does not feed.

Balls are notorious for going off of feed randomly or from stress induced factors.


"Also, if your enclosure has a screen top, you may have difficulty holding in humidity. If that is the case, you should consider covering part of the top with plexiglass"

+1. I can't say how much I agree with this. Humidity is a nightmare to keep in glass tanks, and you're most likely going to need a piece of plexi covering the top if it's a screen. Cut a circular opening for your heat lamps and a couple 3/4" holes on the ends. You need less ventilation than you think.

Artgecko gave great advice, I would also use only the ceramic heat emitter. The red bulbs are a waste of time, additionally ball pythons spend most of their time in termite borrows so they are not a species that needs ANY additional lighting to begin with. The daylight from a small window is sufficient.


How big of a tank is he in ? 20 gallon long?

[neur0tix]

Give him an entire day to get situated, do not hold him, do not bother him. If you can, try to even stay out of the room he's in. Then, try again tomorrow. Repeat if he does not feed.

Balls are notorious for going off of feed randomly or from stress induced factors.


"Also, if your enclosure has a screen top, you may have difficulty holding in humidity. If that is the case, you should consider covering part of the top with plexiglass"

+1. I can't say how much I agree with this. Humidity is a nightmare to keep in glass tanks, and you're most likely going to need a piece of plexi covering the top if it's a screen. Cut a circular opening for your heat lamps and a couple 3/4" holes on the ends. You need less ventilation than you think.

Artgecko gave great advice, I would also use only the ceramic heat emitter. The red bulbs are a waste of time, additionally ball pythons spend most of their time in termite borrows so they are not a species that needs ANY additional lighting to begin with. The daylight from a small window is sufficient.


How big of a tank is he in ? 20 gallon long?

20 gallon long. Also, I feel like the temperature from the UTH on the thermostat is not right... maybe I have too much aspen bedding but when I touch t he spot he sleeps (under his hide) it doesn't feel like 92

thing is, he tried to take the mouse 3 times but missed the mouse... OR, he was trying to get me and not the mouse... lol. I don't know. It seemed like after he missed it 3 times he said "to hell with this" n said forget about it!

- - - Updated - - -

if I lay a thermometer under his hide, it shows 80 degrees. But the thermostat is saying its 90

- - - Updated - - -

Think was a mistake mounting the thermostat sensor between the UTH and tank.

[KevinK]

20 gallon long. Also, I feel like the temperature from the UTH on the thermostat is not right... maybe I have too much aspen bedding but when I touch t he spot he sleeps (under his hide) it doesn't feel like 92

thing is, he tried to take the mouse 3 times but missed the mouse... OR, he was trying to get me and not the mouse... lol. I don't know. It seemed like after he missed it 3 times he said "to hell with this" n said forget about it!

- - - Updated - - -

if I lay a thermometer under his hide, it shows 80 degrees. But the thermostat is saying its 90

- - - Updated - - -

Think was a mistake mounting the thermostat sensor between the UTH and tank.

Yeah a 20 gallon long should have a plexi top cover and you should be using a substrate with some form of humidity in it (cypress mulch is usually the best). I'm only saying as I have used that EXACT setup before and you won't hit your humidity requirements with aspen.

Leave him alone though for a day aside from fixing his cage.

[artgecko]

Often, you will have to set the thermostat higher to get the desired temp under the warm hide. I measure my temps on the glass below the warm hide with a thermometer and then adjust the thermostat until the temp under the warm hide is correct.

As for feeding, I'd wait until he has had about a week to settle in before trying. As the other poster said, minimize contact and don't try to handle during that time.

When you do try to feed again, it is very important that the prey item is warm. if using frozen thawed, I defrost in the refrigerator over night, then right before feeding (maybe 1 hour before) I lay it out near the cage so that it comes to room temp. This also allows the smell to alert the BP to food. Then, when it is at room temp, I use a hair dryer to warm up the body and head until it feels warm to the touch. Mice / rats have higher body temp than we do, so it should feel warm when you touch it.

To feed, use a pair of tongs so that the mouse / rat is away from your hand (and don't use tongs that are warm..you want them cooler than the prey item). grab the prey by the back of the neck or rump and simulate movement..Don't dangle over the snake's head though..move it along or just above ground level. You should be able to tell if he is interested pretty quickly.

You can try leaving it in the cage if he doesn't strike it, but if he has not eaten it the next day, I'd toss is.

[Craiga 01453]

I can't get him to eat..... first time tried, nothing happened. Just now, he took three shots at it but missed each time... (WTF?) Then he had no interest anymore. Should I just lay it there and close the tank, or keep trying to make it "dance" around

I 100% suggest leaving the snake alone until he is eating. Literally Pretend he's not there except to spot clean and change water.

Make sure husbandry is spot on, make sure proper hides and security are offered and avoid temptation and let the snake acclimate. I personally don't handle any new snakes, especially juveniles, until they have eaten three consecutive meals without refusal. Poor husbandry and stress do to handling are the main reasons a snake will refuse food. Getting your animal eating should be your top priority.

[Zincubus]

I can't get him to eat..... first time tried, nothing happened. Just now, he took three shots at it but missed each time... (WTF?) Then he had no interest anymore. Should I just lay it there and close the tank, or keep trying to make it "dance" around

What time of the day did you try to feed ?

I only feed in the evenings .

Read up and try the hairdryer method .

I will PM you details to consider


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