ball python terrarium/vivarium questions

[Regius_049]

1. I am leaning towards live plants for my ball python terrarium. Do you think this is a good choice versus artificial plants? Would live plants be better for a different reptile/amphibian?

My personal opinion is that live / planted vivariums are best for: dart frogs, arboreal species, and semi-aquatic species. My reasoning is that most of these species are smaller or arboreal and thus don't destroy the habitat to a large degree. Larger snakes and lizards (for example pythons or monitors) will destroy most plants suitable for a vivarium. Dart frogs, crested geckos, green tree pythons and such are smaller and unlikely to try and dig into the substrate. The other issue is feeding. Nothing is more annoying than watching your snake bread a frozen/thawed rodent in whatever substrate you're using.

2. How and what plants could I use to set up a live plant terrarium/vivarium properly? In the event I would need to clean the terrarium, how would I do that with all of the live plants?

If I were going to try it, I would use very robust plants with thick stalks / roots planted in stainless or ceramic pots below the surface, making them more difficult to uproot. Most people simply spot clean a bio-active terrarium and use "cleaners" to mop up the rest such as isopods and springtails. That said, ball pythons have particularly large bowl movements and may make this a trickier task compared to say a crested gecko.

3. Is there any plants that I should be avoiding for ball pythons or new ball python owners?

There is a list floating around the internet with plants that are noted to be toxic to reptiles and other pets. I would avoid these. I would also avoid any fragile or overly expensive species as they are likely to get destroyed.

4. What is the minimum size (gallon) tank for a ball python? (I have heard 20 gallons, 45 gallons, and 35 gallons and I am honestly confused. )

This is hugely debated topic you will get answers all over the place. First, I would shy away from any standard fish tanks. Their largest dimensions are nearly always length and height, and while some height is helpful for a ball python, it is often wasted. Overall floor space (L x W) is the most important metric. For a small ball python (hatchling - 1 year or so), a 20 gallon would work just fine, maybe even a touch large for more "problematic" feeders. However, I wouldn't keep an adult ball python in anything less than roughly a 45 gallon, which are typically around 15" wide x 36" long or so. Similar to a large Exo-terra, but again, often with extra height where more width would have been better. I should note that they do make "long" or "wide" aquariums that are better proportioned to reptile keeping.

This will depend on how large of a ball python you end up with however. If yours ends up around approximately 1600 grams or less, then the above will work just fine in my opinion. However, if you're snake starts pushing 2000g+, I feel the above is too small. I have several large ones and their hides don't really fit a cage that narrow making it difficult to have one well situated on each end of the enclosure. At bare minimum, you need floor space for: a warm hide, a cool hide, and a water dish. Some keepers can get away with smaller tubs in a rack system because the rack "acts as a hide" to some degree, but this is not always so easily achieved in a tank or enclosure. Personally, I feel the 4' x 2' plastic reptile enclosures made by a variety of manufacturers are the best option for ball pythons of nearly all size categories. I would recommend one around 1.5' or 14-16" inches tall.

5. In your experience, which is the best substrate for ball pythons? (Again, I have heard many different answers and when I finally decide on one someone tells me to avoid it at all costs.)

My opinion is that paper towels are hands down the best substrate for ball pythons...and pretty much all terrestrial snakes for that matter. Paper towels don't "bread" your wet frozen/thawed feeder rat when they eat it. They are cheap and nearly always on hand. They make it much easier to detect a mite problem should that ever arise. They are thrown out regularly and make for easy poop cleanup.