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  1. #1
    Registered User FlynnTheBP's Avatar
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    BP Bio-Active Enclosure Plans

    Hi everyone,
    I'm moving my new ball python Flynn up to a 20 gal vivarium within the next few months, and I have a basic plan, I'd just like to run it past some experts. I'd like to make the enclosure bio-active as well. I will seal the bottom, then add a layer or plastic or garbage bag to prevent water damage. Then I'm going to layer an eco-earth/orchid bark mix over that, as well as a layer of moss, leaf litter, and tree bark. Next I'd add two closed hides, a half log, three potted live plants, and a ledge/pvc pipe for climbing purposes. Finally, I'm planning to put in a large water dish and sand box for burrowing, as well as a few other rocks and decorations. Does everything here sound okay? I'll use a heatpad, an infrared bulb, and a white UVB bulb for heating and lighting, but will the plants be okay with this? The cage gets plenty of natural light. Oh, and I'll be using wood lice/spring tail cultures for cleanup. Thanks for looking it over!

  2. #2
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    I STRONGLY suggest a drainage layer. Clay aquaponics balls, leica, a sheet of Matalla pond filter, or gravel - at least one inch, covered with regular fiber glass screening. The growing substrate that goes on top of that needs to drain and breathe, otherwise you will end up with a mucky anaerobic mess.

    In my experience, the plants do ok under the heater if there is enough space, and the heat is not too high. I doubt the UTH will do much for you from beneath the floor, esp with Melamine (is this why you are worried about water damage? ... Honestly, I don't see that material as a good choice for bio-active. I expect water will get in and swell the particle board somewhere.) The UTH also won't be able to heat through the drainage layer up into the upper substrate if there is the proper amount of aeration/fluffiness in the media.

    I wouldn't bother with ordering the buggy clean up crew. They are better suited to the minuscule droppings of dart frogs. A bit of home compost will have sufficient bacteria to break down incidental small stuff, and you should clean any waste piles as you find them. Fertilizer can be fishwater, or a compost tea. You aren't raising tomatoes in there, the plants can grow slowly - without LED's, light is probably your limiting factor anyway.
    Last edited by distaff; 03-08-2017 at 12:08 AM.

  3. #3
    Registered User FlynnTheBP's Avatar
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    Re: BP Bio-Active Enclosure Plans

    Quote Originally Posted by distaff View Post
    I STRONGLY suggest a drainage layer. Clay aquaponics balls, leica, a sheet of Matalla pond filter, or gravel - at least one inch, covered with regular fiber glass screening. The growing substrate that goes on top of that needs to drain and breathe, otherwise you will end up with a mucky anaerobic mess.

    In my experience, the plants do ok under the heater if there is enough space, and the heat is not too high. I doubt the UTH will do much for you from beneath the floor, esp with Melamine (is this why you are worried about water damage? ... Honestly, I don't see that material as a good choice for bio-active. I expect water will get in and swell the particle board somewhere.) The UTH also won't be able to heat through the drainage layer up into the upper substrate if there is the proper amount of aeration/fluffiness in the media.

    I wouldn't bother with ordering the buggy clean up crew. They are better suited to the minuscule droppings of dart frogs. A bit of home compost will have sufficient bacteria to break down incidental small stuff, and you should clean any waste piles as you find them. Fertilizer can be fishwater, or a compost tea. You aren't raising tomatoes in there, the plants can grow slowly - without LED's, light is probably your limiting factor anyway.
    Thank you distaff. Could the clay balls just be mixed in with the substrate or layered at the bottom of the tank? I was kind of looking forward to the bugs, lol, mostly because I was hoping to mimic the natural environment as closely as possible. I won't do it if it has any sort of adverse effects, but otherwise I'd enjoy creating a nicer looking set up. Another quick question, if I don't use the UTH, are the heat lamps okay as the only source of heat for the snake itself? I'd probably add some LED tape (that exists, right?) for the plants. Finally, last one, I promise, there are a bunch of these little wild California Slender salamanders around me. I keep some in terrariums and they enjoy high humidity and food like springtails. If I had the insects in there, could I also keep a couple salamanders? I know my BP may end up eating them, but they aren't poisonous and I figured it was worth a shot since there would be plenty of leaf litter. Thank you again!

  4. #4
    Registered User Slither Seeker's Avatar
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    I would think that if it was wet enough for salamanders that it would be too wet for BP's, no? you can use an UTH mounted on the side possibly.
    "Keep in mind I am sharing what I have learned and what my experiences have taught me. I am not an expert, and it's always good to weigh varying perspectives... Doing it "correctly" often means balancing what works for others with what works for you, given your parameters and observations."

    Family Critter List: Bumblebee BP, Fire Spider BP, Brazillian Rainbow Boa, Planted Aquarium, Red-Foot Tortoise, Dwarf Hamster, Holland Lop Rabbit, 6 egg laying chickens, 37 in freezer camp, last but not least Flap Jack, our Pit mix rescue dog who keeps everyone in line.

  5. #5
    Registered User FlynnTheBP's Avatar
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    Sorry, never mind about the salamanders. Just looked it up and they require much cooler temps then a BP. I think insects would be the only animal that I would add to the tank.

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