Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 950

0 members and 950 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 76,067
Threads: 249,217
Posts: 2,572,780
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, Inky Clouds
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 30 of 30
  1. #21
    BPnet Royalty OhhWatALoser's Avatar
    Join Date
    07-28-2007
    Location
    Suburbs of Detroit
    Posts
    4,986
    Thanks
    530
    Thanked 2,721 Times in 1,477 Posts
    Images: 2
    Ball pythons need heat, doesn't matter what direction it comes from, under, over, sideways, doesn't matter. What alot of people do with wooden enclosures is put in a false bottom that is made of material easier to heat through (like plastic). Just need enough room for your heat and temp probe. You can do the same on the back or side if you want. If you go that route just make sure it is sealed well, can't have urine or spilled water bowls running down on the heat or temp probe.

    Personally I find rhps easier when it comes to in the enclosure heating, just screw em to the top, poke a probe in from the back of the cage a couple inches down from the rhp and call it good.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to OhhWatALoser For This Useful Post:

    Fritzl (04-12-2017)

  3. #22
    Registered User
    Join Date
    10-07-2016
    Location
    London
    Posts
    140
    Thanks
    148
    Thanked 28 Times in 21 Posts
    Images: 11

    Re: Do ball pythons require belly heat?

    i live in london, and the humidity is definitely high enough for a BP, but using a heat lamp does dry out the vivarium so you still need to take care with water bowl placement and stuff, definitely think it's worth investing 5 quid on a digital hygrometer, especially for shedding

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Dumdum333 For This Useful Post:

    Fritzl (04-12-2017)

  5. #23
    BPnet Senior Member cletus's Avatar
    Join Date
    08-26-2016
    Location
    San Antonio, TX
    Posts
    2,204
    Thanks
    2,397
    Thanked 1,986 Times in 1,247 Posts
    Images: 55
    Belly heat is just easier for my setups. There are def other ways to do it but it works for me and my snakes.

  6. #24
    Registered User SiXandSeven8ths's Avatar
    Join Date
    03-03-2016
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    78
    Thanks
    22
    Thanked 23 Times in 18 Posts

    Re: Do ball pythons require belly heat?

    Quote Originally Posted by Aste88 View Post
    Although the precise answer to BP requiring belly heat is no, the short answer would be yes. Sure is the best way to provide the proper heat gradient.

    Heat bulbs, CHE (ceramic heat emitting bulbs), and radiant panels work great for basking / arboreal reptiles. For a terrestrial snake that spends most of his time in the hide they provide little thermal gradient as they heat the air, plus all the humidity problem described.

    There's plenty of heat pads that are watertight and can go inside the viv, you recognize them because they look like this

    You don't know how radiant heat works, do you?

  7. #25
    Registered User Aste88's Avatar
    Join Date
    07-15-2016
    Location
    Italy
    Posts
    139
    Thanks
    30
    Thanked 127 Times in 67 Posts
    Images: 23
    Well yeah, radiant panel and on a lower amount also bulbs, do heat exposed surfaces and not just air. But if you ever stood in front of a fire will know that as soon as you turn around you don't feel the radiated heat anymore.

    Since BP don't spend time basking but hiding they will not benefit much from that, thus speaking only about air heating. As said that's not the case with other reptiles.
    3.10 ball python(banana spider moj enchi, lavander, spider leopard, dreamsicle, 2 pied, bumblebee, pinstripe, butter pastel, superpastel, pastel, pastave, het dreasmicle)
    1.1 boa c. imperator (albino, hypo)
    1.2 carpet python (zebra, jaguar, jungle)
    2.2 burmese python (hypo, pearl, dwarf hypo, dwarf)
    0.1 brazilian rainbow boa
    1.1 hognose (albino, tiger anaconda)
    1.1 california king (albino, chocolate stripe)
    1.1 mexican black king
    1.1 corn (caramel)
    1.1 honduran milk (albino, hypo)
    0.0.1 green tree python
    0.0.1 argentine tegu

  8. #26
    BPnet Veteran
    Join Date
    02-02-2016
    Location
    Boston Area
    Posts
    671
    Thanks
    197
    Thanked 572 Times in 308 Posts
    Images: 1

    Re: Do ball pythons require belly heat?

    All heat sources heat the air, inasmuch as the air is in contact with surfaces that are warm. A UTH doesn't heat the air very much because it is covered by substrate and thus insulated, and because it just isn't that warm - it can't be, or else it would be a burn risk. So basically, the total amount of heat it is introducing to the cage is just not very much.

    All heat sources also produce radiant heat - but again, it's a function of what the heat source's temperature is, and how wide of an area that is spread out over. A CHE and a radiant heat panel may both have the same wattage and produce the same amount of total heat, but the CHE concentrates it in one place and therefore runs at a much higher temperature. THe RHP spreads it out over a wider area. Both of them also heat the air, because they are in contact with the air and cause convection. The other way they heat the air is that the radiant heat heats the ground and other objects underneath them, which also heats the air. A radiant heat panel is better at spreading the heat around, a CHE is better at concentrating it in one space. But that basically just has to do with their shape and the distribution of their heating elements.

    By the way, if you stuck a UTH on the ceiling, that would be basically the exact same thing as a very skinny and low-power RHP.

    Ball pythons sometimes do bask, BTW. Mine comes out and basks on top of his furniture under the RHP pretty much every evening. It's dark, but there's heat coming down from above. He has warm hides as well, which he uses, but he still comes out and basks under the RHP most evenings.

    Basically though, it only matters that the snake has an appropriate temperature range to choose from; it doesn't matter how you provide that.

  9. #27
    BPnet Royalty Zincubus's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-22-2011
    Posts
    7,009
    Thanks
    2,526
    Thanked 4,966 Times in 3,028 Posts

    Re: Do ball pythons require belly heat?

    It's all a mystery to be to be fair .

    Years ago I thought that I'd add a little heat to the cold end of my big Boa Viv and I stuck a huge heatmat on the end side/ panel just thinking it would help a little . Even on max heat output it made no difference . I just presumed the heat left the pad and went straight up into the roof of the Viv as it appeared to make zero difference to any of the cool end temps .


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk




  10. #28
    BPnet Veteran Charles8088's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-14-2017
    Posts
    548
    Thanks
    806
    Thanked 468 Times in 215 Posts
    Images: 13
    Without the need to start a whole new thread, I have a very simple question....

    Are the kingsnakes the same in regards to belly heat? They do not need belly heat as long as the ambient temps are high enough and correct? Specifically thinking of a Mexican Black Kingsnake.
    0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake (Tynee)
    0.1 BEL Ball (Luna)
    0.1 Sunglow Boa (Pippi Longsnake)
    0.1 Woma Python (Uma)


    WANT LIST
    - Mangrove Snake

    - Russian Rat Snake
    - Eastern Indigo
    - Black Milk Snake
    - False Water Cobra
    - Rhino Rat Snake
    - Thai Bamboo Rat Snake
    - Western Hognose
    - Kenyan Sand Boa

  11. #29
    Registered User Slither Seeker's Avatar
    Join Date
    01-18-2017
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    203
    Thanks
    221
    Thanked 115 Times in 78 Posts
    Images: 19

    Re: Do ball pythons require belly heat?

    that is what I have created and it works really well. you can heat with an UTH but you need to contain the heat with the enclosure, probably insulate, but all without overheating the mat. I protect the probe from urates and water spills by placing it under a glass panel. if you are interested in making one of these I can provide details.



    Quote Originally Posted by Paty View Post
    I have a Glass Tank with an UTH. Wood helps insulate so your UTH would be insulated to keep heat out. What about adding a sheet of glass or acrylic into the enclosure on the bottom under the substrate. Then you could have a UTH under the glass and above the wood. The wood underneath would then keep the heat inside the enclosure.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Keep in mind I am sharing what I have learned and what my experiences have taught me. I am not an expert, and it's always good to weigh varying perspectives... Doing it "correctly" often means balancing what works for others with what works for you, given your parameters and observations."

    Family Critter List: Bumblebee BP, Fire Spider BP, Brazillian Rainbow Boa, Planted Aquarium, Red-Foot Tortoise, Dwarf Hamster, Holland Lop Rabbit, 6 egg laying chickens, 37 in freezer camp, last but not least Flap Jack, our Pit mix rescue dog who keeps everyone in line.

  12. The Following User Says Thank You to Slither Seeker For This Useful Post:

    Fritzl (04-12-2017)

  13. #30
    BPnet Veteran Charles8088's Avatar
    Join Date
    02-14-2017
    Posts
    548
    Thanks
    806
    Thanked 468 Times in 215 Posts
    Images: 13
    But, what I'm asking is this... this thread and many others have convinced me that I don't need to set up belly heat for my ball, as long as the ambient temps are correct, correct gradients, etc.

    Quote Originally Posted by predatorkeeper87 View Post
    Do they require belly heat? No.
    Quote Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl View Post
    First off, no they do not require belly heat but it is the easiest way.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sauzo View Post
    No BPs don't need belly heat. They will do fine with an ambient temp of mid to high 80s as long as you have a cool spot in the low 80s they can get to as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sauzo View Post
    That CHE will work assuming you get a warm side of around mid to high 80s and a cool side of high 70s to low 80.

    So, when I get my T8, I am gong to have the divider in there, with a ball on one side and a different species in the other. The other will probably be a Mexican Black Kingsnake, but not completely sure. More than likely, a colubrid of some sort. So, if I don't get the undertank heat, will that be fine for both? I don't mind spending the money to get it set up right. But, rather not if its a necessity that's not really a necessity.
    0.1 Mexican Black Kingsnake (Tynee)
    0.1 BEL Ball (Luna)
    0.1 Sunglow Boa (Pippi Longsnake)
    0.1 Woma Python (Uma)


    WANT LIST
    - Mangrove Snake

    - Russian Rat Snake
    - Eastern Indigo
    - Black Milk Snake
    - False Water Cobra
    - Rhino Rat Snake
    - Thai Bamboo Rat Snake
    - Western Hognose
    - Kenyan Sand Boa

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1