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Thread: Territorial..

  1. #1
    Registered User Cadance's Avatar
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    Territorial..

    I have a 7-month-old pied BP and he's is extremely territorial. If you walk past his enclosure he is already in striking position. There's been a few times where I was kneeling in front of the terrarium to check the humidity levels and he struck at the glass. As soon as he is out of his enclosure he is calm and loves to explore. He's overall pretty well behaved but gets started by basically anything.. I've had him for a month and he has somewhat gotten better, but I was wondering if there was anything I could do to help get rid of that behavior? Will it just get better with time?

    Also, this is my first BP so if you have any tips about anything or interesting facts, share!

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    BPnet Senior Member Hannahshissyfix's Avatar
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    Re: Territorial..

    How is his set up? Sounds like he's stressed and needs more hides or security clutter.

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    Registered User DreDeuce's Avatar
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    Re: Territorial..

    Make sure your BP's setup, is not in a high traffic area. Make sure it has a hide on the warm side. Everyone says 2 hides, (warm side, cool side) and in a way I guess i have two hides, because on the cool side, my Snake's tree branch, she can get behind it, but she is in view. I do not have any taped off sides, but I live alone, (with the exception of my BP and Dog,) and my BP's setup in my bedroom. Very low traffic area. Lol.. people will say to tape the sides and back off so it feels more secure, and that's up to you to do. Just keep the temps right, always have clean water, and give her time to acclimate. Make sure humidity is on point as well.. they are not display snakes. As beautiful as they are and as tempting it is to have them out in the open, your python will thank you for the cozy, quiet privacy. And if you have a well fed and healthy non stressed snake, it will spend 80 percent of the time hiding anyway. You've only had it a month, give it some time to get used to its new surroundings. For correct temps, and humidity, and proper set ups, there are plenty of caresheets online and on this wonderful website.

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    Registered User Cadance's Avatar
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    His setup is ideal. The temps are correct on each side, he has fresh, clean water and his hides are are both sides plus some plants to hide behind if he wants. He is in an extremely low traffic area. Nobody passes it except me when I come to check his temps and humidity. He eats well and every 7 days.

    This is hit setup right now:

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    I think it can still do with some changes, and your bp's attitude would improve. The half log hides actually aren't very good hides at all. They need hides where they can hide their entire bodies completely inside, like these ones or just the one you have on the left. Another benefit of these is you can make a humid hide for shedding:

    http://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

    I think just that would actually help a lot. But another thing is that there isn't much clutter in the "space" in the tank, most of it is just on the ground. I would put in some branches and then drape big, leafy vines like this over them:

    https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta...=flukers+vines

    Another thing is that reptiles can see the red light and it does affect their circadian rhythm. Ideally, you'd want a UTH combined with a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) to provide heat in a glass tank, with no lights.
    Last edited by redshepherd; 02-19-2017 at 01:45 AM.




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    Territorial..



    I actually use these as hides with the separating portion. They both like to burrow underneath and curl up in the fully enclosed side with no hole cut it in. It's dark and it's enough to hit all sides and top with no in or out hole unless they burrow underneath again to get out. Really gonna suck when they outgrow these bc then they'll have a regular hide with a hole in it for an entrance. I mean no big deal but they really like that fully enclosed side hoping they don't go on strike when I have to change. But then again I might have my rack built by then so they won't get a hide lol


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    Last edited by BBotteron; 02-19-2017 at 01:57 AM.
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    I agree, tighter more enclosed hides and no visible light. He also may be simply hungry-what's he eating and how often? How are you judging temps-do you have a temp gun to double check any thermometers in the cage? Is the heating only from bulbs or do you have a heat mat also? Given you've only had him a month I would cover up the sides too, give him some privacy, I had a boa that struck at the cage door a few times in the weeks after I added him but once he settled in has been fine.

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    BPnet Senior Member CALM Pythons's Avatar
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    Smile Re: Territorial..

    Quote Originally Posted by Cadance View Post
    I have a 7-month-old pied BP and he's is extremely territorial. If you walk past his enclosure he is already in striking position. There's been a few times where I was kneeling in front of the terrarium to check the humidity levels and he struck at the glass. As soon as he is out of his enclosure he is calm and loves to explore. He's overall pretty well behaved but gets started by basically anything.. I've had him for a month and he has somewhat gotten better, but I was wondering if there was anything I could do to help get rid of that behavior? Will it just get better with time?

    Also, this is my first BP so if you have any tips about anything or interesting facts, share!
    Some people will disagree with me but Ive had these snakes for 29 years and let me tell you back then we were not using 2 hides, a thermostat, 3 sides covered with cardboard or paper ect ect ect....so when atitude comes out in a snake I do not believe its always because husbandry is not correct.
    I have a neighbor that is cool as heck, my other neighbor is a wack job and if I engage him and get him talking all is good, but 5 min later when were leaving & drive bye and wave he looks then turns away with disgust. Why? Who knows! Hahahahahha
    Also 29 years ago Ball Pythons did not strike out into the air often or act aggressive when trying to take them out of enclosures ect..(of course there is always the problem child). In the 1980's and 90's kids got them for Christmas & Birthdays and they were not snappy Hatchlings. With all that said I beleive Ball Pythons were breed after that for the morphs without any thought of what their temperment was.. So now we have timid or aggressive Balls whom most of us considered docile 30 years ago when they climbed on us and explored without being skittish.... Now a we call a timid snake that doesnt strike docile....
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    Last edited by CALM Pythons; 02-19-2017 at 10:35 AM.
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  11. #9
    Registered User Cadance's Avatar
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    I agree, tighter more enclosed hides and no visible light. He also may be simply hungry-what's he eating and how often? How are you judging temps-do you have a temp gun to double check any thermometers in the cage? Is the heating only from bulbs or do you have a heat mat also? Given you've only had him a month I would cover up the sides too, give him some privacy, I had a boa that struck at the cage door a few times in the weeks after I added him but once he settled in has been fine.
    He was eating rat pups every 7 days, but the "snake expert" at the human society (where I get his food from) said to move him up to weaned rats now. He is eating frozen thawed and does it without a fuss. I don't know if this will affect his behaviour but I feed him in a different container now and I'm hoping that might help.
    I use a temp gun and thermostat. I have a heat mat one the hot side and my room generally gets pretty cold at night so I use the light at night time.

    I think it can still do with some changes, and your bp's attitude would improve. The half log hides actually aren't very good hides at all. They need hides where they can hide their entire bodies completely inside, like these ones or just the one you have on the left. Another benefit of these is you can make a humid hide for shedding:

    http://www.reptilebasics.com/medium-hide-box

    I think just that would actually help a lot. But another thing is that there isn't much clutter in the "space" in the tank, most of it is just on the ground. I would put in some branches and then drape big, leafy vines like this over them:

    https://www.amazon.com/Flukers-Repta...=flukers+vines

    Another thing is that reptiles can see the red light and it does affect their circadian rhythm. Ideally, you'd want a UTH combined with a CHE (ceramic heat emitter) to provide heat in a glass tank, with no lights.
    He had a different hide for his hot side initially, but it was far too big so I changed it out for this one. The plants almost always drape in front of the opening, making it seem more enclosed. If I make a humid hide for shedding, would I replace one of his hides? Would it be in there all the time, or just during shedding?

    I can't find any branches that would fit in the tank. Do you have any recommendations on where I could find/order one? If I just move his vines up would that help? I have then low because he likes to climb on and under them, and sometimes falls off.

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