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Registered User
Set-up Questions
i got my first ball python almost a week ago. i feel like i'm doing this wrong, so here goes.
using a large (too large - looking to transfer to a smaller one) tub filled with plenty of stuff for a baby bp.
warm side:
- hot spot temp is 92 degrees. the thermometer is measuring underneath the substrate
thermostat is set to 106. heat pad is on the outside. thermostat probe is in between the heat pad and the tub.
- one hide
cool side:
- ambient temp is 75 degrees. the thermometer is measuring the air.
thermostat is set to 104. heat pad is on the outside. thermostat probe is in between the heat pad and the tub.
- one hide
- water dish
in the center there are some plant decorations to fill up the space.
humidity is currently at 72% (my bp is going to shed soon)
i need help. i don't know what the most efficient way to correct the temperatures for this. where to put the thermometer probe, whether the temp is ambient temp or hot spot temp, why i need to set the thermostat up so high to get a temp so low, etc. i followed some guides on here but it feels like it is not working out for me. help would be appreciated. thanks a bunch.
pictures will be posted if necessary asap
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The Following User Says Thank You to paroxysm For This Useful Post:
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Re: Set-up Questions
[QUOTE=paroxysm;2496026]
cool side:
- ambient temp is 75 degrees. the thermometer is measuring the air.
thermostat is set to 104. heat pad is on the outside. thermostat probe is in between the heat pad and the tub.
- one hide
- water dish
QUOTE]
I'm assuming this is the part you are concerned about? If so, UTHs are great at providing "hot spots", but are typically pretty poor about raising ambient temperatures. If you are trying to increase ambient temperatures with a UTH, you will likely have to have a "secondary enclosure. What do I mean by this? The only people I have seen report notable increases in ambient temperatures are those using UTH in enclosed rack systems. So the tub with the UTH is essentially enclosed in a plastic box, so you would likely have to simulate a similar setup.
Alternatively, you could use the UTH for the hot spot then put either a low wattage ceramic heater on the enclosure or put it near a small space heater. The easiest solution by far is to use a UTH for the hot spot then use a small space heater to raise ambient air outside the tub. In a pinch, I have used ceramic heaters outside tubs about 18" away to raise ambient.
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Re: Set-up Questions
 Originally Posted by paroxysm
i got my first ball python almost a week ago. i feel like i'm doing this wrong, so here goes.
using a large (too large - looking to transfer to a smaller one) tub filled with plenty of stuff for a baby bp.
warm side:
- hot spot temp is 92 degrees. the thermometer is measuring underneath the substrate
thermostat is set to 106. heat pad is on the outside. thermostat probe is in between the heat pad and the tub.
- one hide
cool side:
- ambient temp is 75 degrees. the thermometer is measuring the air.
thermostat is set to 104. heat pad is on the outside. thermostat probe is in between the heat pad and the tub.
- one hide
- water dish
in the center there are some plant decorations to fill up the space.
humidity is currently at 72% (my bp is going to shed soon)
i need help. i don't know what the most efficient way to correct the temperatures for this. where to put the thermometer probe, whether the temp is ambient temp or hot spot temp, why i need to set the thermostat up so high to get a temp so low, etc. i followed some guides on here but it feels like it is not working out for me. help would be appreciated. thanks a bunch.
pictures will be posted if necessary asap
If im understanding this, your running 2 UTH's? One is on the Hot side and its 92 and the other is on the cool side and the ambiant temp is 75? Is this what your saying? If so, the UTH on the cool side is much warmer on the Floor than the Ambient temp of 75 so there goes your cool side as its almost the same as your hotside Belly heat...
When we are talking about a ambiant temp its usually done with a RHP or a Ceramic heat bulb or heat lamp. Your snake really doesnt have a cool side unless he is hanging from a branch as the Belly heat is hot on both sides....use one Heat Lamp or Ceramic for ambiant and one UTH for hot basking.
(Unless I read this all wrong which is possible, if so im sorry im tired)
Last edited by CALM Pythons; 01-12-2017 at 08:19 PM.
Name: Christian
0.1 Albino Ball (Sophie)
0.1 Russo White Diamond (Grace)
1.0 Hypo Burmese (Giacomo/AKA Jock)
1.2 Razors Edge/Gotti & American Pit Bull
----------
1.1 Albino/Normal Burmese (Mr & Mrs Snake)
1.0 Albino Ball (Sully)

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Registered User
i tried using a CHE and a reptile stand but it was melting the plastic of the tub way too quick. im going to try a lower wattage.
yes, right now i am running two which is bad but i can change that now.
when talking about temperatures, is it the ambient temp or the basking temp?? like where should the probes be and stuff. because if like the hot side hot spot is 92 then the ambient temp is way higher. which one should it be?
thanks so much for replying
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Re: Set-up Questions
 Originally Posted by paroxysm
i tried using a CHE and a reptile stand but it was melting the plastic of the tub way too quick. im going to try a lower wattage.
yes, right now i am running two which is bad but i can change that now.
when talking about temperatures, is it the ambient temp or the basking temp?? like where should the probes be and stuff. because if like the hot side hot spot is 92 then the ambient temp is way higher. which one should it be?
thanks so much for replying
Bro you have the correct idea its just all mixed up.. Here is a simple fix until you can read up because there is a Post on here I will Copy and Paste that is the cats A** on setup..
Ambient temp (air) should be no leas than 78 (some say 75). With that said, IF your using a UTH your snake will go onto the heat when needed....back In the 90's all I used were UTH and never had a problem.
With that said it is still better to have a decent air temp anyway. You dont want the enclosure to be 50 degrees.
Just go buy a cheap Dimmer Switch for the CHE and adjust it like a dimming light.. Check temp every 30min and see where you want it so that air is (78-82), put your thermometer 1/2 way between top and bottom on cool side which is opposite of UTH basking. Also depending on your enclosure lid use some Tin Foil to seal it up a little over (if screened lid) to hold temps. Aquariums loose heat (Glass) like crazy. As for the UTH tape that Tstat to it... Then use a thermometer to check the floor area so you dont burn his Belly. If the UTH is 114 itself after it goes through the glass it might still be 100.. So lower tstat until your floor is 92. it Im telling you this as a limited budget way to keep the snake safe.. If you want a sweet setup and have the funds I can rattle off a setup in 50 words for around $700 including a PVC Snake enclosure.
So for now this will get you some reading time.
Last edited by CALM Pythons; 01-12-2017 at 11:30 PM.
Name: Christian
0.1 Albino Ball (Sophie)
0.1 Russo White Diamond (Grace)
1.0 Hypo Burmese (Giacomo/AKA Jock)
1.2 Razors Edge/Gotti & American Pit Bull
----------
1.1 Albino/Normal Burmese (Mr & Mrs Snake)
1.0 Albino Ball (Sully)

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Personally I have a space heater in my snake room set to 72F, that's the ambient for the cold side. I also set my hot spot to 88F. I actually remove all the substrate over the hot side so the snake is directly on the tub, then I put coconut husk substrate all around him for humidity, but he sets directly on the bottom of the tub. If he makes a mess I clean it up with dilute Chlorhexidine solution and wipe it out with paper towels, and I only spot clean the substrate around the snake if it gets dirty. The bottom of your tub should be the same temp as what your thermostat says since your thermostat sits directly under the tub. Anything over 92F can cause sterility in male ball pythons. Most texts recommend a higher temp and people will repeat that incorrect temp of 92F. Most breeders now will recommend 88F for the hot spot. I don't have any problems at all with the lower temps, almost all my snakes eat on a regular basis twice a week. I usually mix up the rodent sizes based on what I have in my rodent rack, so sometimes they get a big meal and sometimes a small meal, works great for feeding twice a week.
I'm thinking you have a bad thermometer or something if you are setting your thermostat high but your hotspot under the substrate is low.
Last edited by cchardwick; 01-13-2017 at 01:05 AM.
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Re: Set-up Questions
 Originally Posted by Mr Sully
Bro you have the correct idea its just all mixed up.. Here is a simple fix until you can read up because there is a Post on here I will Copy and Paste that is the cats A** on setup..
Ambient temp (air) should be no leas than 78 (some say 75). With that said, IF your using a UTH your snake will go onto the heat when needed....back In the 90's all I used were UTH and never had a problem.
With that said it is still better to have a decent air temp anyway. You dont want the enclosure to be 50 degrees.
Just go buy a cheap Dimmer Switch for the CHE and adjust it like a dimming light.. Check temp every 30min and see where you want it so that air is (78-82), put your thermometer 1/2 way between top and bottom on cool side which is opposite of UTH basking. Also depending on your enclosure lid use some Tin Foil to seal it up a little over (if screened lid) to hold temps. Aquariums loose heat (Glass) like crazy. As for the UTH tape that Tstat to it... Then use a thermometer to check the floor area so you dont burn his Belly. If the UTH is 114 itself after it goes through the glass it might still be 100.. So lower tstat until your floor is 92. it Im telling you this as a limited budget way to keep the snake safe.. If you want a sweet setup and have the funds I can rattle off a setup in 50 words for around $700 including a PVC Snake enclosure.
So for now this will get you some reading time.
CHE with Dimmer on cool side for ambient temperature, opposite side the UTH makes your hot spot. this is my setup except I use RHP instead of CHE. This will let your CHE run at a lower temp just enough to maintain ambiant & the UTH makes the hot spot. Easy Bro 👍🏼
Name: Christian
0.1 Albino Ball (Sophie)
0.1 Russo White Diamond (Grace)
1.0 Hypo Burmese (Giacomo/AKA Jock)
1.2 Razors Edge/Gotti & American Pit Bull
----------
1.1 Albino/Normal Burmese (Mr & Mrs Snake)
1.0 Albino Ball (Sully)

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Registered User
Re: Set-up Questions
okay, i'm going to break it down. sorry, just want to do it right this time .
hot side:
- uth
- thermometer right on top of uth
- thermostat probe in between uth and bottom of enclosure. thermostat set at whatever temperature makes the thermometer read around 92
doesn't it make more sense for the che to be in the middle?
cool side:
- che
- i don't know how dimmers work but a dimmer is needed
- where should the thermometer be
so, regardless of the hot side/ cool side basking temps being around 82 and 92, the ambient temp of the whole thing should be around 80? is this correct?
oh my gosh im so sorry for asking a lot of questions i just don't want to mess up again.
Last edited by paroxysm; 01-14-2017 at 12:02 PM.
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Registered User
okay.
my hot side hot spot temperature is 90, and my cool side hot spot temperature is 81. the ambient temp varies from 73 to 76. is a che still needed?
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Re: Set-up Questions
 Originally Posted by paroxysm
okay.
my hot side hot spot temperature is 90, and my cool side hot spot temperature is 81. the ambient temp varies from 73 to 76. is a che still needed?
Cool side Ambiant needs to be 78-83...
Hot Side Basking area 88-91...
as far as the thermometer on cool side have it hanging down the back corner 1/2 way between enclosure floor & lid..
As far as a dimmer, thats what some Lights have in houses.. It dims the light (cutting some electric current) well your going to dim your heat bulb/CHE or whatever until you have the temp in the enclosure you want, this controls it from running Wide Open.
(what you mean about your "Cool side hot temp & Ambiant air I dont understand)
Your coolest temp should be 78... If your temp is fluctuating down to 73 that is not good. Don't forget thermometers are off too so that could accually be 68/69 degrees....however on the bright side thats why i like Belly Heat 24/7.. They are smart enough to stay on the heat mat when needed..
To solve the fluctuation in temps (cant remember what enclosure you have) block off any screens partially with Tin Foil. Ive also used a towel but not near a Heat Bulb ect....
in the future invest ($195) for a "herpstat 2" possibly. If your staying in the hobbie that controls 2 heat sources. It also has a alarm incase a heat source stoped working. Here in NY the night temps can go down to -15 outside... If my UTH or RHP burned out the alarm would go off when it shut off or went under 85 degrees... Herpstats are expensive, but they are the best out there i think...
Also FYI , APCAGES has a sale on the T8, $150 + 45 shipping if you are using a Aquirium id think about this as youll never get it spot on.. If thats all you can do for now cover 3 sides with cardboard and it will accually make it hold heat 100% better.
I don't recommend anything I dont have experiance with and that has worked for me....
Last edited by CALM Pythons; 01-18-2017 at 08:00 AM.
Name: Christian
0.1 Albino Ball (Sophie)
0.1 Russo White Diamond (Grace)
1.0 Hypo Burmese (Giacomo/AKA Jock)
1.2 Razors Edge/Gotti & American Pit Bull
----------
1.1 Albino/Normal Burmese (Mr & Mrs Snake)
1.0 Albino Ball (Sully)

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