Ball python jaw too short?

[bcr229]

Just an FYI, there are forums you can post on to let others know about unethical breeders.
I know people don't like to hear it but this animal should have been:
1 kept
2 free
3 food

It sucks but I myself would NEVER sell that animal.

Exactly this, and for #2 I would have the new owner sign a first right-of-refusal contract where if the new owner needs to rehome it then I'm first in line to get it back at no charge. There would be a rather steep fee for violating it too. Otherwise you know there are people out there who would take that free snake and flip it within a few days, with no disclosure of the deformity.

OP: I would put feedback threads up here and on the FaunaClassifieds.com Board of Inquiry on the seller. Whether or not the critter is eating, an underbite is a defect that should be disclosed.

My concern is if she doesnt decide to eat on her own and she is full grown, what if i cant continue to assist feed her that way, what if she puts up of a fight. Stupid i know but fears are usually stupid and irrational

It's not stupid or irrational to worry about quality of life and potential problems when keeping an animal with a defect. Anyone who breeds has to consider them before they start throwing males in with females.

I would just monitor her weight and growth, and when she gets up to adult size if she does stop eating just weigh her every few weeks to make sure she's not dropping faster than most other BP's, as it's not unusual for them to go on months long fasts.

[Zincubus]

That is an under developed lower jaw.
If she is eating then I wouldn't worry about it other than the fact that the breeder should have made it known to you.
It will not prevent her from eating.

True enough !

I saw one one similar to the description on sale in the uk , it was either very cheap or free , just can't recall .

I'm guessing that it shouldn't be be bred from but I'm not 100% certain on that point .

The one I saw looked a little like a baby shark from side , it was hellishly cute looking .

[Coluber42]

First of all, that little snake is lucky to have landed with you, particularly coming from a breeder who was either blind and clueless or unscrupulous.

But what recourse you have with regard to the breeder is neither here nor there when it comes to getting the snake to eat for you and taking the best possible care of it. There are lots of resources here for getting youngsters to eat. But what a lot of it comes down to is that they are most vulnerable while they're eating, so they don't want to be watched, they don't want to feel exposed, they want an escape route (like being able to drag the prey into a hide and finish it out of sight) and they don't want to do it in bright light. If swallowing is just a little more difficult than normal, that probably contributes to the insecurity.
So scent the room, but keep commotion to a minimum, feed at night, keep the lights turned low, and if possible, use a cardboard shield or something so the snake can't see you watching. Also make sure the prey is heated up to body temperature (100 degrees give or take) and wiggle it a little.

I don't have personal experience with this, but you might seek out other keepers who have cared for snakes with this deformity over the long term. Since its mouth can't really close completely normally, I could imagine the snake being potentially more prone to issues or irritation from some kinds of substrate, low humidity, etc. Can snakes get dry mouth, if the skin on the inside of their mouth that would normally be moist from saliva basically at all times gets dry from being exposed? Could it be more prone to mouth rot, fungus, abrasions, bits of substrate getting stuck where it can't get rid of them? I have no idea, but I'm sure there's someone out there who could either tell you what small tweaks to its care might help accommodate its issue, or even just assure you that it doesn't need anything any different from a normal ball python.

[Zincubus]

First of all, that little snake is lucky to have landed with you, particularly coming from a breeder who was either blind and clueless or unscrupulous.

But what recourse you have with regard to the breeder is neither here nor there when it comes to getting the snake to eat for you and taking the best possible care of it. There are lots of resources here for getting youngsters to eat. But what a lot of it comes down to is that they are most vulnerable while they're eating, so they don't want to be watched, they don't want to feel exposed, they want an escape route (like being able to drag the prey into a hide and finish it out of sight) and they don't want to do it in bright light. If swallowing is just a little more difficult than normal, that probably contributes to the insecurity.
So scent the room, but keep commotion to a minimum, feed at night, keep the lights turned low, and if possible, use a cardboard shield or something so the snake can't see you watching. Also make sure the prey is heated up to body temperature (100 degrees give or take) and wiggle it a little.

I don't have personal experience with this, but you might seek out other keepers who have cared for snakes with this deformity over the long term. Since its mouth can't really close completely normally, I could imagine the snake being potentially more prone to issues or irritation from some kinds of substrate, low humidity, etc. Can snakes get dry mouth, if the skin on the inside of their mouth that would normally be moist from saliva basically at all times gets dry from being exposed? Could it be more prone to mouth rot, fungus, abrasions, bits of substrate getting stuck where it can't get rid of them? I have no idea, but I'm sure there's someone out there who could either tell you what small tweaks to its care might help accommodate its issue, or even just assure you that it doesn't need anything any different from a normal ball python.

Great post !!!

This is one snake that hopefully won't be fed LIVE food ...


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[CALM Pythons]

she got back to me and said she didn't see that she had that defect (yeah right) i tried to have her at least give me half of my money back, but she keeps on trying to push the blame on me as to why the little one is not eating (telling me my temps must be off even though they are not, or saying that they often are stubborn and refuse foods). I will def add her to the list though that was mentioned. Feeding day is on Wednesday so hope all will go good and she takes it on her own this time. When i recieved her she weighed in at 87g on the 18 of November 2016 and the last time i weight her on the 3of January this year she weighed in at 111g I dont know if thats about average for a 4 month old. My concern is if she doesnt decide to eat on her own and she is full grown, what if i cant continue to assist feed her that way, what if she puts up of a fight. Stupid i know but fears are usually stupid and irrational
I guess time will tell. Corn snakes and red tail boas seem to be much more uncomplicated

Thank you all so much for your kindness and Answers!

No I dont think its the kind of snake, hahaha as I had terrible trouble with a Red Tail and all my Balls and Burms been great for over 29 years.
I think it will work out as long as you stay on the train. Think positive, you might just be her best buddy from here on out and everything could be fine

[Yzmasmom]

Not sure what's normal for a 4 month old. Mine was born beginning of August, and on Dec 25th she was 232g, (so almost 5 months old.) She's already on to weaned ups though and eats once a week. I think after weaned pups my store sells small rats.

[PitOnTheProwl]

Great post !!!

This is one snake that hopefully won't be fed LIVE food ...

The animal is capable and its the owners choice.

Public warning to keep the post on topic.

[Zincubus]

The animal is capable and its the owners choice.

Public warning to keep the post on topic.

I thought I was on topic ... I was wondering if it has a restricted / limited jaw movement or biting power then that would surely come into play with a live rat surely ...


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[Zincubus]

she got back to me and said she didn't see that she had that defect (yeah right) i tried to have her at least give me half of my money back, but she keeps on trying to push the blame on me as to why the little one is not eating (telling me my temps must be off even though they are not, or saying that they often are stubborn and refuse foods). I will def add her to the list though that was mentioned. Feeding day is on Wednesday so hope all will go good and she takes it on her own this time. When i recieved her she weighed in at 87g on the 18 of November 2016 and the last time i weight her on the 3of January this year she weighed in at 111g I dont know if thats about average for a 4 month old. My concern is if she doesnt decide to eat on her own and she is full grown, what if i cant continue to assist feed her that way, what if she puts up of a fight. Stupid i know but fears are usually stupid and irrational
I guess time will tell. Corn snakes and red tail boas seem to be much more uncomplicated

Thank you all so much for your kindness and Answers!

When you come to feed her on Wednesday make sure the rodent is nice and warm when you dangle it in front of it . Mine all strike from inside their hides and drag it in and back under . If it doesn't strike simply give it a 20 second blast with a hairdryer and offer it again immediately whilst it's still warm , keep repeating until it takes it .

This method rarely falls .


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[Eceukool]

Good New every one! I had decided to wait with feeding until today, and she took it! I had to get a bit on her nerves with it but she took it all on her own and is now satisfied with a full belly. I am over the moon! I just wanted to thank Everyone for being so kind and sending me encouraging words and tips on how to get her to eat!

I am so happy!

-Eceukool