New Enclosure Design

[fastolfe]

Hi,

I've been reading posts on this forum for a while, and I've learned some great stuff. Now I'm getting ready to build an enclosure for my ball python, and I'd like to ask you all to look over my design. Thanks!

My design is basically a plywood box, with an opaque acrylic floor and clear acrylic front doors. As you can see, the acrylic doors have hinges on the bottom edge, and the top is hinged as well for easy access. I don't like cleaning, so I want to make it as easy as possible! I will be caulking the inside edges and sealing the wood, probably with polyurethane. I went with the acrylic floor because it is waterproof and I don't like the idea of putting a UTH on wood.

The overall dimensions are:
Width: 56.75"
Depth: 15.75"
Height: 21"

I have a couple of specific questions, but I appreciate any feedback!
1. Do you think it will have enough airflow? There will be a reasonable gap around the front doors, and I put those holes in the sides
2. Is 3/8" plywood thick enough for this size tank?
3. How thick should the acrylic be? I put 3/16 in the model but I really have no idea. Or should I use a different material?

Full View:

Section View:

[Zincubus]

Looks bladdy marvellous to me .....I was going to suggest buying a couple of cheap purpose made reptile air hole thingies but maybe yoù won't need them ...

Promise me you'll 'consider' adding some branches as Royals/Balls absolutely LOVE climbing in the evenings


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[ShaneSilva]

Thats enough ventilation imo

[Regius_049]

Hi,


I have a couple of specific questions, but I appreciate any feedback!
1. Do you think it will have enough airflow? There will be a reasonable gap around the front doors, and I put those holes in the sides
2. Is 3/8" plywood thick enough for this size tank?
3. How thick should the acrylic be? I put 3/16 in the model but I really have no idea. Or should I use a different material?

1. I believe your airflow will be sufficient with the above design.

2. Assuming that plywood is only used on the sides and top, it should be fine at 3/8". These areas are not the most likely to sag/warp due to chronic stress. That said, they will likely warp due to exposure to a humid environment if they are not treated in some way to resist moisture. I would get plywood (like melamine) that is designed to be water resistant.

3. If I were designing a cage of those dimensions, I would use 1/2" acrylic for the bottom and long pieces. The acrylic on the doors does not really matter, but over time, I can almost guarantee you that 3/16" will sag on the bottom. If you have a lot of anchor points (i.e. nails), this will help, but I think that thickness is too thin. For comparison, you will notice that most plastic cage manufacturers use somewhere in the range of 3/8" (Constrictors NW) to 1/2" (Animal Plastics) for their caging. Sagging and overall strength is the reason.

[fastolfe]

Looks bladdy marvellous to me .....I was going to suggest buying a couple of cheap purpose made reptile air hole thingies but maybe yoù won't need them ...

Promise me you'll 'consider' adding some branches as Royals/Balls absolutely LOVE climbing in the evenings


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I promise! I was already planning on eventually adding branches, I just figured I'll take things one step at a time. Thanks!

[fastolfe]

Thats enough ventilation imo

Thanks, it's hard for me to figure out that sort of thing.

[fastolfe]

1. I believe your airflow will be sufficient with the above design.

2. Assuming that plywood is only used on the sides and top, it should be fine at 3/8". These areas are not the most likely to sag/warp due to chronic stress. That said, they will likely warp due to exposure to a humid environment if they are not treated in some way to resist moisture. I would get plywood (like melamine) that is designed to be water resistant.

3. If I were designing a cage of those dimensions, I would use 1/2" acrylic for the bottom and long pieces. The acrylic on the doors does not really matter, but over time, I can almost guarantee you that 3/16" will sag on the bottom. If you have a lot of anchor points (i.e. nails), this will help, but I think that thickness is too thin. For comparison, you will notice that most plastic cage manufacturers use somewhere in the range of 3/8" (Constrictors NW) to 1/2" (Animal Plastics) for their caging. Sagging and overall strength is the reason.

Thanks, I do plan on sealing the plywood thoroughly with polyurethane or something like that. That should help with the warp, but I'll look into melamine as well.


I'll plan on using thicker acrylic for the bottom, then, and possibly the doors if it doesn't increase the cost too much. I suppose adding more wooden supports underneath the acrylic could allo help with sagging, but I'd rather just go for the thicker acrylic. Thanks!

[ShaneSilva]

Also if the wood is kiln dried a few coats of poly will solve the warping issues. I have a wooden enclosure that's coated with a coat of primer, couple coats of flat paint, and multiple coats of polyurethane. Had it for a while and no signs of warping yet


Good luck!

[pbyeerts]

Fabulous!


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[Cwilson187]

Promise me you'll 'consider' adding some branches as Royals/Balls absolutely LOVE climbing in the evenings


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I wanted to add branched to mine as well, a lady said I could go into the woods and just get branches from the wild and just shave the pointy parts or sharp parts off. Obviously no poisoning things but, is there any type of tree that I should look for specifically or ones to stay away from? Don't know if there's some trees or agriculture that BP's shouldn't be around.