Young snake won't take F/T, try live next?

[Enirei]

He does at times poke around at the screen lid in an attempt to escape and does move around when he isn't basking or in a hide.

That behavior is something mine does when he's hungry and he settles down to hide after feeding. I'm assuming they're just looking for food.

If he was fed live, he might not recognize the scent of the f/t mouse as food. My snake was only taking live, my f/t attempts would result in him being interested at first and then once he sniffed, he lost interest even when warmed up to 100F and doing a 'zombie' dance. And no luck with the scenting of chicken broth.

What worked for him was using some used mouse bedding in a ziploc bag to scent the f/t after it's warmed up. I shake the f/t around for a few seconds and then my snake will take it. He's consistently been taking it that way for the last 5 feedings.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Because someone raised 1 snake since hatchling in a large enclosure and it works does not mean it will work for everyone, matter of fact in the majority of cases it does not (those are exceptions) I have troubleshoot 100’s of those same exact questions over the last decade where the common denominator was I have an hatchling in a 30 or 40 gallons tank. If it works great but if the animal is showing issues obviously it does not work, not to mention that some will not show issues right away but the issue will build up over time instead, or people fail to read their animal.

The fact is a temporary small enclosure that fits the animals need is a PROVEN method, when someone experience feeding issues with their snake you will never see an experience keeper or breeder suggest to move the animal in a larger enclosure to help, however they will recommend the opposite.
Again it is temporary until you fix your issue the animal eats for you and you understand your animal’s behavior and a lot of people misread their animal.

If an animal refuse to eat, try to escape, is over active it is telling you something.

In the end it is up to you.

[ferrislongdog]

What I could do is get around a 6qt anyway and try to feed him the live prey in it later this week. He's seemed to stop wiggling around during the day time lately, especially that I concealed all sides of the tank, and has taken to just chilling in a hide or coming out for a short time to drink and bask. If he still seems disinterested after a try or maybe two (however long I need to stall to gather funds to set up a tub), I could then use the tub for his enclosure until he gets another 100 or so grams on him and is eating regularly and keep him in bigger ones until he's big enough and eating regularly enough to move him into the tank. It would make sense since he was raised in a tub anyway.

Unless it seems really unlikely he will take the live, I'd like to avoid getting stuck with a mouse to keep alive until he wants to eat especially since it'll outgrow his food size. In your experience would you say the tub is more likely a solution? I can get most the supplies to set it up tonight.

[KMG]

Because someone raised 1 snake since hatchling in a large enclosure and it works does not mean it will work for everyone, matter of fact in the majority of cases it does not (those are exceptions)

So every snake that has ever been kept in a small enclosure eats without issue? I doubt it. A small enclosure may be the norm but I don't believe it is the only way to do it.

If there is one thing I have learned when dealing with snakes it is everyone has there own way to do things. Research any snake and you will find four or five caresheets that are different, we all know that. Certainly these people made a caresheet with information that has worked for them and though it doesn't match what everybody else does, does not mean it is wrong. It may not be mainstream but that doesn't make it wrong.

I don't see why a person like the OP who is providing a naturalistic cage for their snake needs to go to a tub. Their cage may need some tweaks but it will work and I think it is a much better life for a snake.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

So every snake that has ever been kept in a small enclosure eats without issue? I doubt it. A small enclosure may be the norm but I don't believe it is the only way to do it.

If there is one thing I have learned when dealing with snakes it is everyone has there own way to do things. Research any snake and you will find four or five caresheets that are different, we all know that. Certainly these people made a caresheet with information that has worked for them and though it doesn't match what everybody else does, does not mean it is wrong. It may not be mainstream but that doesn't make it wrong.

I don't see why a person like the OP who is providing a naturalistic cage for their snake needs to go to a tub. Their cage may need some tweaks but it will work and I think it is a much better life for a snake.

You are missing the point of having issues versus not having issues. If there is an issue obviously it does not work.

Again nowhere will you see someone recommended a large enclosure for an animal WITH issues.

It's not about what I do either because what I do would not work for a new owner either it's about what is PROVEN to solve issues.

[KMG]

I missed nothing.

It could also be the current setup and the lack of proper hides. You and I are not there but I see no reason to have the OP scrap their setup for a tub without truly knowing the issue. We all know the half logs look good but they are not ideal for snakes. Some added moss or other hides may fix the issues without having to switch to a tub.

Ill back out of this thread even though I have experience with cages like the OP is using and have been successfully keeping snakes outside of the "proven" methods.

[ferrislongdog]

I do need to fix up the cave he's currently hiding in as it's a little big for him and he shoves himself into a corner of it, I plan to add at least one more hide and conceal his log a little better. Hopefully he remains relaxed in a hide as he has been doing lately.

Additional question, should I be placing the thermostat probe IN the bedding above the UTH to regulate that temp? It's kind of measuring the air in the hot area.

[KMG]

Additional question, should I be placing the thermostat probe IN the bedding above the UTH to regulate that temp? It's kind of measuring the air in the hot area.

NO!

The tstat probe goes OUTSIDE the tank between the UTH and the bottom of the tank.

[ferrislongdog]

I do have them both covered up with carpet to prevent any chance of burns also. I can shove the probe in with the one on the floor of the tank, have I been making the bedding too warm?? The bedding is probably 90 or more. Since I have two heaters and one thermostat I can at least regulate that one to 92. Does the InkBird dim the power to it or will it just shut the heater off and keep turning it back on to keep it warm?

Thanks for pointing that out I don't know how I didn't think of how warm it must be on the heater I was focusing on the ambient temp too much

[KMG]

I do have them both covered up with carpet to prevent any chance of burns also. I can shove the probe in with the one on the floor of the tank, have I been making the bedding too warm?? The bedding is probably 90 or more. Since I have two heaters and one thermostat I can at least regulate that one to 92. Does the InkBird dim the power to it or will it just shut the heater off and keep turning it back on to keep it warm?

Thanks for pointing that out I don't know how I didn't think of how warm it must be on the heater I was focusing on the ambient temp too much

The probe needs to be outside the cage. Only bad things will happen when controlling uth with the probe inside the cage.

The snake CAN get under the carpet. It is no protection.

You need to know your temps. Get an IR temp gun on Amazon, they are cheap.

If it were me I'd cut the tstat down to 88F and get a IR thermometer.

The uth does not heat the air and it is improper to attempt to control the air temp with them.


I don't know your tstat but if it's a cheap one that says on/off and that it's not proportional it does just as you said and turns off and on to control the uth. Proportional tstats are best and one day you'll want to upgrade.


So much for backing out. I think some full pics of your cage would help me get you up and running. One trick to make a hide feel smaller to your snake is placing a good amount of moss in it covering. This covers the large opening and takes up space inside making it feel more secure.