More breeding questions, some conflicting info?

[redshepherd]

I'm reading various articles on breeding, and getting some conflicting info on what to do. And also lacking some info that I have questions about... I thought I'd just clarify here and follow one way. I'm thinking I can start putting them together in January when she's done with her quarantine.

Should I introduce the male to the female's enclosure? And keep him in there until I see a lock, or for 3 days max?

Should I keep the hide in the enclosure? I'm not using a rack, just a 4' heat pad and lining up all the tubs on it. And the hide is a large size from reptilebasics. Female is about 1900g.

After each lock, take the male back and give them a break for 5 days? 3 days?

Usually how many locks should I see before she is gravid? Would it be okay to continue pairing a male to her even while she's gravid (assuming I can't tell)?

If when the female has an increased feeding response during this time or before, should I give her more frequent meals to pump up her weight?

If the male accepts food during this time, should I feed bigger or smaller or just normal sized meals?

Should I provide a nesting box of moss when she's gravid? Or just leave the enclosure as it is with paper towel and a hide?

That's off the top of my head for now... LOL

Any confirmed good links to breeding guides would also be great.

[Eric Alan]

Should I introduce the male to the female's enclosure? And keep him in there until I see a lock, or for 3 days max?

Yes. 3-4 days max or until you see a visual lock - whichever comes first.

Should I keep the hide in the enclosure? I'm not using a rack, just a 4' heat pad and lining up all the tubs on it. And the hide is a large size from reptilebasics. Female is about 1900g.

I remove the hides when pairing. Makes it easier to observe what's going on and gives them room to do their thing.

After each lock, take the male back and give them a break for 5 days? 3 days?

I have my males on a weekly rotation. 3 days on, 4+ days off (depending on when/if I see a lock).

Usually how many locks should I see before she is gravid? Would it be okay to continue pairing a male to her even while she's gravid (assuming I can't tell)?

I pair once/shed cycle (about once/month) until I see an ovulation. No reason to pair after that.

If when the female has an increased feeding response during this time or before, should I give her more frequent meals to pump up her weight?

You certainly can. An increased feeding response is a good sign of her getting herself ready. You can certainly increase either size/frequency at this time (within reason).

If the male accepts food during this time, should I feed bigger or smaller or just normal sized meals?

I do my normal once/week meals. If anything, I go on the smaller size during breeding season to try and keep them eating as much and as long as possible. They are prone to going off feed during this time.

Should I provide a nesting box of moss when she's gravid? Or just leave the enclosure as it is with paper towel and a hide?

No nest box needed. Keep the enclosure as is and you'll be good.

That's off the top of my head for now... LOL

Any confirmed good links to breeding guides would also be great.

http://ballpython.ca/gallery/breeding/ :gj

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Should I introduce the male to the female's enclosure? And keep him in there until I see a lock, or for 3 days max?

I keep them together for 2 days at the time unless when I go to separate them they are locked.

Should I keep the hide in the enclosure? I'm not using a rack, just a 4' heat pad and lining up all the tubs on it. And the hide is a large size from reptilebasics. Female is about 1900g.

To breed they need to get close so having the hide him allowing one to hide from the other will be counter productive. During breeding season I do not provide hides at all.

After each lock, take the male back and give them a break for 5 days? 3 days?

Depends on your rotation, my makes spend 2 days at the time with each females to make it easier with my schedule and remain in the same feeding schedule I do Monday Tuesday female 1 Wednesday Thursday female 2 than rest until Monday at that time it's turn for female 3 and 4 and so on. Each female is only paired once to twice a month depending on what I see.

Usually how many locks should I see before she is gravid? Would it be okay to continue pairing a male to her even while she's gravid (assuming I can't tell)?

I have had many clutches without swing locks, I have had clutches seeing 1 lock, 5, 10 it more. It's not about the number of locks, just like because you see locks does not mean you will have a clutch.

If when the female has an increased feeding response during this time or before, should I give her more frequent meals to pump up her weight?

SOME not all females will become very agressive, those may get fed twice a week instead of one.

If the male accepts food during this time, should I feed bigger or smaller or just normal sized meals?

You really want to keep feeding him the same way, you definitely want your make to eat as breeding really take it's toll on makes however because he eats does not mean he should over eat and get lazy.

Should I provide a nesting box of moss when she's gravid? Or just leave the enclosure as it is with paper towel and a hide?

Just your substrate, once my female ovulate I like to switch to cypress or coconut bedding to hold humidity just in case the clutch is laid and I do not catch it right away ( helps keep optimum humidity)

Bottom line there are many ways that work you have to find the way that works for you and your animals, observingg your animals will and understanding what you see will play a big role in breeding.

[StillBP]

I can't add to anything Eric and Deborah said except to wish you luck and say I too do 3 on 4 off. They both know their stuff when it comes to snakes. Listen to them and you will do well.

[redshepherd]

Thanks much for the answers guys, it really helps a lot! My future is no longer fuzzy.

Definitely, I'd much rather just do exactly how those with extensive experience do it when it comes to something like breeding, than just run willy nilly into it. I'm probably OCD or a perfectionist (also why I edit practically every single forum post I make LOL) The more info, the better.

[Eric Alan]

Thanks much for the answers guys, it really helps a lot! My future is no longer fuzzy.

Definitely, I'd much rather just do exactly how those with extensive experience do it when it comes to something like breeding, than just run willy nilly into it. I'm probably OCD or a perfectionist (also why I edit practically every single forum post I make LOL) The more info, the better.

You missed a period.

[redshepherd]

You missed a period.

Screams. LOL

[redshepherd]

More questions... Way down to the line, but I feel the need to know now. LOL

For inside the egg tub, it sounds like substrateless/just straight water with an egg crate on top is fine. What do you use to raise up the egg crate higher out of the water so that air can circulate above and below the eggs?

Also, I read around that egg crate is dangerous for hatchlings to crawl around on. So how soon after the first egg pips can I move all the eggs onto just damp paper towel? What should the humidity be at after the first pip? Still 100%?

When do you take out all the hatchlings out of the egg tub and into a normal setup with holes in it, on a heat pad? After they all finish coming out, or just after the first pip? And... at what point in this whole process should I start to lower humidity from 100%?

[Stewart_Reptiles]

For inside the egg tub, it sounds like substrateless/just straight water with an egg crate on top is fine. What do you use to raise up the egg crate higher out of the water so that air can circulate above and below the eggs?

You can use PVC pipes cut to the right heights.

While this method is used it can cause a lot of condensation in the tub, and you have to be very careful with water sloshing around.

Also, I read around that egg crate is dangerous for hatchlings to crawl around on. So how soon after the first egg pips can I move all the eggs onto just damp paper towel? What should the humidity be at after the first pip? Still 100%?

It can cause issues if an hatchling egg sac or cord was to get caught in the light diffuser.

I simply prevent that by replacing everything with paper towel once they slit through.

Once they pip they no longer need humidity at 100%

When do you take out all the hatchlings out of the egg tub and into a normal setup with holes in it, on a heat pad? After they all finish coming out, or just after the first pip? And... at what point in this whole process should I start to lower humidity from 100%?

You don't have to do anything regarding humidity in the egg box all you need is air out once a day or every other day when they pip for proper air flow.

As far as pulling hatchlings and setting them up different people different ways to do things, if I check and 1 or 2 are out I will put them in a tub and continue until none are left. But I have had clutches in the past staying in the egg box until everyone was out as well.

[redshepherd]

Thanks Deborah!

You can use PVC pipes cut to the right heights.

While this method is used it can cause a lot of condensation in the tub, and you have to be very careful with water sloshing around.

Maybe I shouldn't use just water then... :s Would using just perlite and water filled up almost to the top underneath the egg crate work?

Would not using the seal wrap over the tub, so letting in some air circulation, prevent condensation? Would it work?