Converting from live to frozen?

[shaidie]

Hey everyone, I've been trying to get my yearling ball python to switch from live to frozen fuzzy rats since the middle of December. She showed absolutely no interest until just today, when I was using the tongs to make it look alive. She struck at the mouse a few times but did not seem to REALLY want it. Then next thing I know, she was striking at the tongs, and then my finger (I have the bite marks to prove it). So my question is, how do I get her to take the mouse and NOT my hand? And not be afraid of the tongs.

I have soaked the mouse in hot water to increase the body temp. It just seems like the snake doesnt like that something is holding its food. It has been sitting in its feeding container in her strike position for like an hour now just staring at the mouse that's in front of it. No way I'm grabbing that snake right now haha.

[Reinz]

Welcome to the forum Shaidie.

First, there is no reason to feed in a separate tub. That's a myth perpetuated by pet stores, especially the big box ones.

While many folks are successful moving their snakes to feed, it can cause additional stress to the snake at feeding time. Also, as the snake grows it can become harder to handle and increases your risk of a bite. I know that I sure don't want to handle my 7-8 foot Boa and Carpet Pyrhon while in feed mode, or even my 5 foot Ball. And the folks with the giants; Retics, Burmese, and Anacondas sure don't move them I can tell you that!

Good chance that the rat has cooled down considerably if the snake is going for you instead .Using a laser type thermometer, I have good success if the head, haunches, and spinal areas are a bit over 100 degrees at the sink. By the time I get to the snake the rat has cooled to 95 plus.

I have converted 6 snakes that the previous owners said couldn't be done. My BP was 13 when converted and one Boa 10. Two keys to my success are food temperature and skipping a scheduled feeding before offering the F/T that way, they are very hungry and not so discriminating.

Your snake will not starve itself. You must be willing to offer tough love.

Also until you get in a groove, you may want to go on eBay or Amazon and get some 10 inch or longer tongs or Hemostats.

Hang in there.


Punch, 10 year old Boa

[EDR]

If it's striking at it i'd to think that's a good start. Like reinz mentioned get bigger tongs and stop switching tubs you don't need to. One suggestion i can give is try leaving it in there she might just eat it. Depending on what your using for bedding i'd watch her. I was a tank user and sometimes they got reptibark stuck to the rats via saliva and could of swallowed some. One reason i switched to printless paper. I believe they can swallow some i just don't like the idea that's just me. If it helps you feel any better my pastel girl was such a problem feeder she'd go on fast and was also a "mouser". Over time during her one of her little fast i just kept offering her thawed rats and surprised me when she took one and hasn't looked back. Now she slams rats and i'm loving that cause i don't need to buy jumbo mice just for her anymore.

[Albert Clark]

Also, repeated attempts to get the animal to take a meal that they are clearly refusing is very stressful to the animal. Once its determined the animal doesn't want the rodent, the attempt should be aborted. There are some animals that will never switch to f/t. You can always retry at the next scheduled feeding. Its a process and one that can be long term.

[Yodawagon]

Try getting the head a little hotter than the body. If it ends up Striking and coiling, tug on the tail a little to replicate struggling.

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Also, make sure it's dry.

[radiorisk424]

Try getting the head a little hotter than the body. If it ends up Striking and coiling, tug on the tail a little to replicate struggling.

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Also, make sure it's dry.

I always do that.