Some rat breeding questions

[artgecko]

I've only been breeding for a short amount of time but I'll try to help answer a few of your questions.

Go for temperament before coloration... Use any that bite or are extremely skittish as feeders, hold back the calmest friendliest ones to breed. Getting bitten by a rat is no joke and temperament is mainly genetic (so a biting mom or dad= biting pups when they get older). Are you in the UK? I think there is a national fancy rat society (or something like that) there that has a website that shows different colors and markings. There are a huge variety and the genetics can be complex.

I think pearl (not sure if it is US pearl or UK) can be lethal if homozygouos (would die in utero and result in smaller litters). Also, sox10 also called dominant white spotting is linked to a condition called megacolon. These are the heavily white patched rats that do not look hooded, variegated, etc. Although pups from these parents that do not look that way (solid, berkshire, etc.) can also have MC. Look up megacolon in rats and you will see lots of information. Basically, it results in pups that start showing signs shortly after weaning.. They cannot process solid foods properly and start swelling with gas and unprocessed food in their abdomen, they also get very skinny at the same time because they can't process nutrients and are basically starving while eating. All MC pups should be euthanized and no siblings or the parents should be bred again as it is recessive and they can be carriers.

The most humane way to euthanize feeders is via Co2 (carbon dioxide). There are many videos on Youtube showing Co2 setups and how to use them. The main thing is you want to control the release of Co2 gas (very slowly) so that they get sleepy before passing out... If you release the gas quickly, the rats experience a smothering sensation and panic... Not a nice way to go. You can also do cervical dislocation (breaking their neck) but this takes skill and learning from someone who knows how to do it as quickly and painlessly as possible.

After killing them, I make sure mine are dry (no pee, etc.) position them with their tails tucked to their body (easier packaging) and put in ziplock freezer bags.

Most common issues with rats (that you are buying) is to look for mites, lice, heavy discharge from eyes / nose, and sneezing, wheezing, "poping" noises when they breath. Rats are very susceptible to respiratory issues. With mites / lice they will be scratching and you will see wounds or hair loss. Mites / lice are highly contagious and not easily treated.

You should also do strict quarantine with any new arrivals for at least 1 month in a room / air space that is not where your colony is. Rats can transmit illness fast and tend to also die very quickly once infected (in my experience).

As for housing, you will get different opinions. It depends on the does... Some help each other raise pups and get along great, others fight over the litters, kill pups, get nervous, etc. You need to be careful to observe them closely if you are housing them together.

For tub size... My advice is to go as big as you can. Most here use the largest cement mixing tubs available in rack systems to house breeders... I believe usually 1.2 or 1.3 ratio per tub. It is a good idea to rotate the male and give females a break (at least 4 weeks) after they wean their litters before putting them with a male again.

Babies will also need to be separated by sex at around 5 weeks or the male pups can impregnate sisters / mother. This means you will need grow out space for them. Females should not be bred until 4-6 months old... Many people use weight as a guide, I can't remember the number off the top of my head.

I do not use a rack, I use large rubbermaid bins (like sterelite containers that are clear). I cut large "windows" on the top / sides and cover with hardware cloth (on the inside) and attach using metal wire or zip ties. This gives them ventilation and the plastic tubs are lightweight and easy to clean. I pick tubs that have flat bottoms and the largest floor space I can find. Rats are active and appreciate the room.

Also of note: Rats are very social. Try not to house them singly unless for birthing / rearing pups before weaning. Even males like to be with another male if not around females and they will get "depressed" if kept alone for long periods of time (I have seen this in my animals multiple times).

They will also need something to chew on..I use cardboard and wooden small animal chews. As far as diet, feed them a good staple lab block diet. around 18% protein.. they are less smelly if their diet does not contain too much protein and has little / no animal protein. I use native earth (harlan teklad) but if you are not in the US, you will have to find out what brands are good in your area. You can also supplement their diet with sunflower seeds, grains (oats, barley, rice etc.) and fresh veggies.. I use scraps / trimmings from when I cook for this. The healthier their diet, the healthier their litters and the healthier your snakes will be.