Finally New Enclosures, But....

[Albert Clark]

Beautiful enclosures Reinz, maybe consider a ultratherm heat mat to stabilize the warm side of the enclosure? It might raise the ambient also.

[Reinz]

I recently switched from tanks to pvc enclosures. I haven't had any issues with temps or humidity yet. I'm using aspen sanichips as substrate and my humidity stays between 45-55. I was considering a RHP but my uth and infrared bulbs seem to give me a nice temp gradient for my carpets. The ambient temps stay around 80 with a basking area of about 92. My colubrids only get belly heat. I tried heating with a CHE on a dimmer but couldn't get it dialed in right. I will admit that feeding and cleaning were much easier when they were in tanks. The main reasons I switched to PVC were to save space and I like them better aesthecially.

Your set up looks great Ziggy!

How do you have the IR bulbs setup inside the cages to prevent burns?

[Reinz]

Beautiful enclosures Reinz, maybe consider a ultratherm heat mat to stabilize the warm side of the enclosure? It might raise the ambient also.

Thanks Albert!

I checked those out and may go that way ( darn! I knew I should have gone with a Herpstat 4).

[EL-Ziggy]

Your set up looks great Ziggy!

How do you have the IR bulbs setup inside the cages to prevent burns?

Thanks Reinz. I don't have the IR bulbs inside the cages. Those are LED lights you see in the enclosures. I have 8 in circle screens on each enclosure and I put the IR bulbs on top. My bull snakes are in the bottom two enclosures and my kings are in the top one. The bulls don't really need much heat so UTH's work just fine for them. I use the ultratherm uth's also. Sometimes I'll put the IR bulbs on top to boost the kings and carpets ambient temps, especially during the colder months. I feel you on getting that herpstat 4. I might have to add one of those as well.

[Reinz]

Thanks Reinz. I don't have the IR bulbs inside the cages. Those are LED lights you see in the enclosures. I have 8 in circle screens on each enclosure and I put the IR bulbs on top. My bull snakes are in the bottom two enclosures and my kings are in the top one. The bulls don't really need much heat so UTH's work just fine for them. I use the ultratherm uth's also. Sometimes I'll put the IR bulbs on top to boost the kings and carpets ambient temps, especially during the colder months. I feel you on getting that herpstat 4. I might have to add one of those as well.

Ok, I thought maybe you fiqured a slick way to set up I/R bulbs inside the cage.

Thanks!

[scalrtn]

Thanks for the input !

[Gio]

Who made your enclosures?

Nothing is really "turn key" and you have to adjust certain things. I have used both glass and plastic, and the work I put into the glass tank was extensive too. Top feeding and cleaning are a pain, humidity is an issue, and lights and cords are ugly.

First off, if you load a plastic enclosure with fresh cypress, or damp coco husk, you'll have at least 1-2 week's worth of 98% humidity and ventilation issues. That's what they do, they hold humidity so misting is cut down and there is no damp towel BS to deal with. The substrate WILL eventually dry out, but your misting will be minimal and less frequent with plastic.

You should open the mulch up and let in breath and dry a bit before you add it in. I prefer to air it out for about 2-3 days.

RHP's are excellent, and depending on where you buy them, the advice you get on their use may not be the best. Some folks have negative things to say about Pro-Products, but if you follow EVERYTHING the guy says to do, you should have no issues. I've done it 3 separate times and have perfect temps on both ends of all the cages. It does take a little time early on though. Remember, panel placement and probe placement ARE important.

Other folks have perfect ambient room temps and use Flexwatt and do well too.

I can't stress Herpstat T-stats enough. They IMO, control the environment of the cages very, very well.

Now, after setting up my first one, I had reservations about temps and my initial thought was the RHP isn't going to cut it.

It usually takes some time for temps to level out, warm the cage and the materials inside. I advise to run the cage fully furnished at least 3 days before you add your critters.

You have to pay attention to your ambient room temps, what type of floor you have in the reptile room, carpet, concrete? And where the reptile room is located in the home.

I ended up insulating under the cages with Refectix and stapled some to the rear of the cages and top. It isn't 100% necessary but it lets my panels run lower and less often. I'm all for keeping more heat through a little extra effort.


It looks like this when it is flat.
This picture was from the old glass tank. I used it everywhere sans the front of the glass enclosure.

It is very easy to staple flat in plastic cages. You would never know it's there on my Pro-Line cages.

I missed one staple on the top here, but see how flat it lays in there! Trust me, if it was an eyesore, I'd never do it because I like the room looking very presentable.

4 x 2 x 2



Reinz, I have a pretty thick, 6 foot plus male BC and think you may want to look into giant tortoise shell hides. I think he (my boy) could curl up in these at 7 feet and still be OK. I know you have a female so you may have to see. But she looks about the same as my fella. They are on each side in this picture. (bottom cage)


Top 4 x 2 x 14" Bottom 4 x 30" x 20"



I guess everybody has their methods, but I truly believe quality, plastic caging is FAR superior to glass in every way.

There are different types of plastic and different thicknesses used in different caging, but I have never heard anybody that was not eventually satisfied with a quality unit. Keep in mind the heating source and thermostat must also be quality to make the whole thing work well.

Stay at it a bit and see how you come out.

[Gio]

...a real pain in the neck and not at all what they are cracked up to be.

In my opinion the PVC snobs should not throw rocks at glass tanks. I think that they are much easier to dial in IF you plan to use substrate in the PVC enclosure.

Right off the bat humidy was way too high using Eco earth bricks with cypress on top, 90%. For 3 weeks I left the doors open, ran a fan and placed a heat lamp inside. (No snakes inside)

Also I'm not impressed with RHPs. The 40 watt would heat the whole tank to the same temp, 87 max.

So I went to an 80 watt. Similar problem, whole tank, same temp (no cool side). So it is set for an ambient temp and that is why I have the Ghetto shelves- stools. It's 90 degrees up there on top.

When I put the water dish in ,and plus the heat, the humidity spiked to 83-85. So now I have to add more vents.
I can't go with a smaller water bowl. Lizzy soaks 3-5 days about 10-14 days before shed as well as intermittently.
Elenore will dunk every now and then.

It's all very basic, not as I had planned. But I don't know where to get natural looking hides for 6 ft and 7-8 ft snakes. Maybe RHPs work better in shorter enclosures, these are 4x2x2, and quite disappointing. Had I known, I would have had shelves built. But the stools offer exercise and warmth.

Both units were supposed to have dual rods, but the builder didn't think that they necessary. So I will have to add those too.

4 x 2 x 2 Monsters

Anyway, my "turnkey enclosures" turned out to be a work in progress.


Now that my Coastal Carpet Python, Lizzy can stretch out, I wonder I'd I went long enough. She is between 7-8 ft.



Lizzy loves her hide! I did not have one for her before, nor the previous owner.



Elenore loves stretching out! She was in a very small temporary tank before. She also loves her hide! I don't think that she ever had before.

Just some basic questions to help you out.

What type of RPH units did you buy and were you given good advice on them based on cage size, room temps (average year round)?

Where are the panels placed in the cages?

What is your thermostat brand, and where are you placing the probes?

What is the vent situation in the cages?

ALL of that humidity will eventually burn off in time, I know this because my first go at plastic was similar when adding damp substrate.

One of the things you are unhappy with is actually one of the advantages of plastic. Keeping the humidity levels up higher for longer is what they are supposed to do.

Snakes that soak are often doing so because something is a little off. Sometimes they are too hot, or often they are not in enough humidity. Obviously mites are a reason but that doesn't fit in here. However maybe you have animals that like to swim. None of the 3 I own here have ever soaked, but that's just my experience.



I'll bet if you had smaller water bowls your snakes would be fine with the long term increase in humidity because of the new cages.

As for your perches, the builder should have listened to you. You'll want at least 3 and I'd recommend spacing them 2-4 inches apart. Your snakes will feel more comfortable with more support under them. One post forces all of their weight to be put on one small spot, but if you spread it out, they will distribute their weight more evenly.

I have some other ideas for you too.

I'll try to help you out with anything you need.

You bit off a lot getting 2 cages right at the same time and I can feel your frustration.

Trust me, you'll get them the way you want them!

It's actually a fun part of the hobby trying new things, adding stuff, taking other stuff out.

It's going to work, and they look really nice on your wall!

[Kris Mclaughlin]

Wow. These are all very nice setups! How are they sturdy wise? Ive seen numerous types of these at local expos. They seemed so thin and flimsy.... Like they were made from marlite.

Yes im a glass guy, but a planted viv glass guy... So it has to be water tight.

Id ask a million dumb questions, but, how bout a web link for info on these bad boys?

Absolutely beautiful snakes btw.

[midnightLeo]

...a real pain in the neck and not at all what they are cracked up to be.

In my opinion the PVC snobs should not throw rocks at glass tanks. I think that they are much easier to dial in IF you plan to use substrate in the PVC enclosure.

Right off the bat humidy was way too high using Eco earth bricks with cypress on top, 90%. For 3 weeks I left the doors open, ran a fan and placed a heat lamp inside. (No snakes inside)

Also I'm not impressed with RHPs. The 40 watt would heat the whole tank to the same temp, 87 max.

So I went to an 80 watt. Similar problem, whole tank, same temp (no cool side). So it is set for an ambient temp and that is why I have the Ghetto shelves- stools. It's 90 degrees up there on top.

When I put the water dish in ,and plus the heat, the humidity spiked to 83-85. So now I have to add more vents.
I can't go with a smaller water bowl. Lizzy soaks 3-5 days about 10-14 days before shed as well as intermittently.
Elenore will dunk every now and then.

It's all very basic, not as I had planned. But I don't know where to get natural looking hides for 6 ft and 7-8 ft snakes. Maybe RHPs work better in shorter enclosures, these are 4x2x2, and quite disappointing. Had I known, I would have had shelves built. But the stools offer exercise and warmth.

Both units were supposed to have dual rods, but the builder didn't think that they necessary. So I will have to add those too.

4 x 2 x 2 Monsters

Anyway, my "turnkey enclosures" turned out to be a work in progress.


Now that my Coastal Carpet Python, Lizzy can stretch out, I wonder I'd I went long enough. She is between 7-8 ft.



Lizzy loves her hide! I did not have one for her before, nor the previous owner.



Elenore loves stretching out! She was in a very small temporary tank before. She also loves her hide! I don't think that she ever had before.

I just think if it hasn't been said that is a pretty cool idea to put stools in your enclosure! Did you cut them down at all?

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