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Trying to regulate heat bulb with thermostat
So, I'm trying to regulate the temperature on the hot side of the tank, but the thermostat I tried first sucks and doesn't do squat (zoo med 500-R reptitemp). I am trying to regulate a 100 watt red heat bulb, but all the main thermostats seem to only work with UTH. Is there a thermostat out there that any of you use for heat lamps, keep in mind, I only have 1 lamp and 1 snake, so I don't need the top of the line high wattage ones.
The lamp is on a dimmer switch so the days that I am home all day, I can keep the temps perfect. But if I leave for any amount of time and the room temp shifts, then the tank either gets cooler than I like or too hot on that side. I'm looking for something reliable that will increase and decrease the temps as needed without me having to constantly adjust it.
The other side of the tank is a constant 82-85 no matter what (it has a 60 watt blue heat bulb)
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The reptitemp is an on/off thermostat.
If you have the thermostat temperature set and probe in a good spot it should be turning the bulb off and on.
Keep in mind this is really going to shorten the life of your bulb.
You would be better off using a CHE.
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Re: Trying to regulate heat bulb with thermostat
 Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl
The reptitemp is an on/off thermostat.
If you have the thermostat temperature set and probe in a good spot it should be turning the bulb off and on.
Keep in mind this is really going to shorten the life of your bulb.
You would be better off using a CHE.
I had it hooked up for over 24 hours and the bulb never so much as flickered. The temps at the probe got up to 106.8. Luckily I don't have a snake yet, I'm just trying to get the husbandry set. We are supposed to pick the snake up tomorrow. Like I said, on the days I'm home I can keep the temps perfect just by adjusting the dimmers as the house warms up and cools off.
Is there such as thing as a thermostat for bulbs (regular or CHE) that will dim / brighten them not on / off them to regulate temperature? I just want to be able to control the temps better, right now I worry about him getting too hot. The other side of the tank has a regulated UTH that keeps that hide at 84 - 86, and the lower wattage bulb keeps the ambient perfect. It's just regulation of the hot spot (90*) that I'm having trouble with.
The UTH is on a thermostat for growing seeds, only has one plug and probe, the directions say it can only be used with 'warming mats'
Last edited by Crowfingers; 10-23-2015 at 01:23 PM.
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You need a proportional thermostat like a Herpstat. Rather than turning the heater on and off they adjust the amount of electricity going to it up and down to maintain a constant temperature.
I also agree with using a CHE over a bulb as well, they last longer.
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Re: Trying to regulate heat bulb with thermostat
FWIW, Petsmart is now selling lights with built in dimmers.
Dave
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The UTH should be the hot side.
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Registered User
Since you already have an on-off thermostat(altough it appears to not be working) you could use an inline rheostat or dimmer switch to reduce the total heat ouput of the bulb down to roughly where you want it, and the thermostat will just work to shut down the light and turn it back on should you go over the temperature you're looking for. This will be much better for the lift of the bulb as it's not running on full steam all the time, and is not shutting off and coming back on to try and control the temperature.
What temperature did you have the thermostat set to when it ran up that hot?
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Re: Trying to regulate heat bulb with thermostat
FranklinMorphs - I had the thermostat at the lowest possible setting when it got to 106. It doesn't have the temperature settings in numbers, just a 'u' shaped line that is green (cool) to red (hot). When I ordered it I thought that there were numbers on the control knob, but the picture was so small I couldn't tell. It also did not come with a thermometer, so I placed a digital thermometer sensor right next to it to measure the temp. I guess it's my fault for going with something from zoo med, I just didn't want to spend $130 on a herpstat that was for much higher wattages than I'll ever use, but that's what's needed then I'll order it.
Pit - I've had it set up so that the UTH kept the cool side hide at 82, and when used in conjunction with the 60 watt bulb, that side's ambient temp is 78 - 80 at night and 83 - 85 during the day. The hide is thick drift wood (picture a turtle shell shape) so without the UTH it does not warm up enough on the inside of that hide at night (has dropped as low as 76). The 100 watt bulb keeps the hot side hide between 85 - 87, and just outside it on the substrate is where the 90* hot spot is. There will also be a moist hide on the hot side and a 4th hide in the center of the tank (not under either light or on UTH) near the water bowl that will match the fluctuating temps once we get the snake home and see how big he is.
Dave - both light fixtures are the ones with dimmers, the problem is that this time of year the house is 75 one day and 66 the next. I have been able to maintain perfect temps either way, but I have to be home to do that. Right now, I have to turn the dimmers down around noon when the house is the warmest then back up as the as house cools around 10pm. It'd just be nice if I have a machine do this for me. Once winter actually kicks in the house temps will be much more stable, but there will always be nights that get super cold and windy and my heat will struggle to maintain 68*. I don't want to have to wake up every few hours to do temp checks. (Believe me when I say that I would if necessary, but surely a thermostat can do that much).
I've read that ball pythons can stress if they feel exposed, so there is going to be multiple hides to choose from, plus plants, rocks, and branches to climb on and clutter up the open space. Both Ball Pythons I fostered did great in this same kind of set up, ate weekly, were active every couple of nights, and very friendly; so I figure as long as I keep the stress down, the bigger tank is ok
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Registered User
Most just maintain low 80s throughout the enclosure with a pad running no more than 90, the side with the pad is your "hot side", snakes don't bask, they pick a hide at their desired temp and climb on in, so an air temp gradient or "basking spot" on top of something isn't desireable or needed. Don't need a night drop in temps unless you are breeding, can run a light during the day, no need for uv or anything, usually it's just to show off an empty tank as the snake hides. CHEs and RHPs heat and cool much slower than a bulb, heat more evenly, last forever and work all hours, much better way to go for ambient temps with a thermostat. Don't over think it, some of the healthiest, and most expensive BPs spend their life in a plastic tub sitting on a 90degree strip of heat tape, lined with paper towels and not much else.
Last edited by alucard0822; 10-23-2015 at 10:24 PM.
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Re: Trying to regulate heat bulb with thermostat
 Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl
The reptitemp is an on/off thermostat.
If you have the thermostat temperature set and probe in a good spot it should be turning the bulb off and on.
Keep in mind this is really going to shorten the life of your bulb.
You would be better off using a CHE.
Sorry this is late in replying, but if I use the CHE does it have to have the "wire basket" type holder. The one I looked at said on the bulb itself to only use with a Zoo Med LF10 model (the basket type) but the instruction paper that came with it said it could be used with a Zoo Med LF12 (the aluminum hood type) so I was confused and went with a regular light. I have an extra aluminum hood with a ceramic socket, that is rated to 150 watts (I'd either get a 75 or 100 W CHE), but I don;'t know if that is safe.
I got a thermostat at the reptile expo yesterday and it's working great, but I don't know if the light turning on and off will bother the snake, and it will shorten the bulb life, so I agree that a CHE will be more economic. I just worry about the safety of them since they get so hot.
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