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BPnet Veteran
With our fogger system i built, once its set, that's that.
But ambient in my home sometimes drops to 15%. As a person who BY FAR prefers animals to people, keeping tabs on the levels is a must. Our planted bp viv has 4 temp reads and 2 humidity reads. Upper tank, subatrate, hot side, cold side.
If your set up nice like some of us are its not really needed. In our case overkill. But, always a but, think of all the potential things that can go wrong in a short time. I think those readings are very very important. We also have a cabinet with a few years of notebooks(records) to back check.
Say a uth shorts. You have analog dial gauges. We all know most folks out there have unchecked heat mats. A dead giveaway would be a dried out tank that MAY or MAY NOT read on the analog gauge. Then you have a problem.
This seems more like a personal preferance thing.
Im glad this didnt get ugly fast like i was expecting.
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Up here in MN I don't have to worry about humidity in the summer, however in the winter my snakes start looking like flakey wrinkled sausages if I don't spritz them down from time to time.
Draco dormiens nunquam titillandus
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Long time breeder says humidity control isn't actually needed?
I think the humidity issue is mainly a carry over from back in the day when everyone used tanks.
I doubt that Mr. Gundy uses any tanks. Now, with tubs and PVC types of enclosures gaining popularity we are starting to see the pendulum shift the other way. Especially since TOO MUCH humidy can be an issue with nontank enclosures.
I can definitely see from his perspective living in a humid area with nontanks that drier is better.

Last edited by Reinz; 10-21-2015 at 01:53 PM.
The one thing I found that you can count on about Balls is that they are consistent about their inconsistentcy.
1.2 Coastal Carpet Pythons
Mack The Knife, 2013
Lizzy, 2010
Etta, 2013
1.1 Jungle Carpet Pythons
Esmarelda , 2014
Sundance, 2012
2.0 Common BI Boas, Punch, 2005; Butch, age?
0.1 Normal Ball Python, Elvira, 2001
0.1 Olive (Aussie) Python, Olivia, 2017
Please excuse the spelling in my posts. Auto-Correct is my worst enema.
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My room humidity right now is 40-50% and my tubs stay any from 65-80% and are completely dry.
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Re: Long time breeder says humidity control isn't actually needed?
I was told your humidity can never be too high as long as the enclosure is warm enough. A warm, 85% humidity enclosure will not cause an RI, but a cold 85% humidity enclosure will. Just what I was told, don't know if it's true.
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Re: Long time breeder says humidity control isn't actually needed?
 Originally Posted by Galaxygirl
I was told your humidity can never be too high as long as the enclosure is warm enough. A warm, 85% humidity enclosure will not cause an RI, but a cold 85% humidity enclosure will. Just what I was told, don't know if it's true.
Not true. you can get mold, scale rot, RI ect. from prolonged exposure to high humidity with little to no air exchange.
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Freakie_frog For This Useful Post:
Galaxygirl (10-21-2015),Stewart_Reptiles (10-21-2015)
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Re: Long time breeder says humidity control isn't actually needed?
 Originally Posted by Freakie_frog
Not true. you can get mold, scale rot, RI ect. from prolonged exposure to high humidity with little to no air exchange.
What would you say is the most humid you can go safely? 70%? I should have asked the guy that said that about scale rot.
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Re: Long time breeder says humidity control isn't actually needed?
 Originally Posted by Galaxygirl
What would you say is the most humid you can go safely? 70%? I should have asked the guy that said that about scale rot.
70% at 92 degrees for a short time ie a few day should be fine. But were this hurts is the ratio of RH:Tempature. So @70% rh and 90 degrees the air temp is actually feels like 106 degrees because of the evaporation factor. Don't ask why I know this just know My humidors are rock stable LOL
So @ between 30-50%rh and 90 degrees the air temp is between 90 and 96 degrees.
Now there is some air exchange and variables that go into that but for the most part keeping them @70% unless they are dehydrated or fighting an RI could cause problems..
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The Following User Says Thank You to Freakie_frog For This Useful Post:
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Re: Long time breeder says humidity control isn't actually needed?
 Originally Posted by Galaxygirl
What would you say is the most humid you can go safely? 70%? I should have asked the guy that said that about scale rot.
To be honest I even had big breeders tell me as long as the actual enclosure is dry you don't really have to worry about humidity being to high. If you think about it Africa is 80-90% everyday. So again as long as everything is dry don't worry about humidity being too high!
Last edited by highqualityballz; 10-21-2015 at 06:17 PM.
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BPnet Veteran
I kind of agree with the as long as your tank is dry statement. Weather here changes all the time. Theres been time periods where outside/ambient humidity make my tank readings max out for humidity.
Theres also been mornings where our fog monster is off for a time period, and the tank developed its own "dew" i think is a close word.
No harm done anywhere along the line. Never any health issues.
A little fluxuation is good we think here. Day to day outside its never 100% consistent. Buts thats what most people try for. So in personal belief, mixing it up a little helps make for a hearty snake.
Simple matter of opinion again.
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