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  1. #21
    BPnet Royalty Gio's Avatar
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    You have to get a thermostat no matter what.

    TCR has some Vivarium Electronics models, and Spyder Robotics makes Herpstat.

    EVERY heat source you use needs to be regulated.

    Your cypress will eventually dry out and you'll be misting and using humid hides. Lights burn humidity out fast.

    Also keep and eye on your snake's belly. Cypress is great but our royal would start getting pink on the belly if she was constantly on damp substrate.

    I'll bet Frosty could build you a really nice and affordable setup if needed.

    Get the thermostat though!

    You will find out fast that experienced members of this board will drill that into you from day one.

    I bought my kid a royal a few years ago, asked a few questions here and within a day I had a Herpstat II ordered and on the way.

    It's a learning curve and completely understandable, but not if the LEARNING part is ignored.

    You'll get dialed in soon, I have faith.

  2. #22
    Registered User reptilecatlady's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    I bought a temp gun. It's coming on Tuesday. Thanks for the heads up about Cypress. Once it dries out I don't mind misting.


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  3. #23
    BPnet Royalty Gio's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    Quote Originally Posted by reptilecatlady View Post
    I bought a temp gun. It's coming on Tuesday. Thanks for the heads up about Cypress. Once it dries out I don't mind misting.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Temp guns are great, but they are not any type of replacement for a thermostat.

    Reptile Basics makes under tank heat pads that are superior to Zoo-Med.

    Get your thermostat probe placed on the outside of the enclosure between the bottom of it and the UTH. That is your hot spot.

    As for the light if you are going that route, buy an infrared flood bulb. It is not as bright and disturbing to the snake, and it will be much easier for you to sleep in a room with it on.

    The bulb needs to be hooked to a quality stat and that probe should go in the cage just an inch or so off the floor on the cool side or at least closer to it.

    A good stat will dim that bulb to almost nothing when temps are right.

    I'll make it easy.

    Pick one:
    http://www.spyderrobotics.com

  4. #24
    Registered User reptilecatlady's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    Okay. I'll invest in a therm from that site. Question though. So I put the probe between the UTH and the enclosure. If it's too hot, then what? I mean how do you technically "regulate" it? I am appreciating all of your tips, trust me. I know I'm new at this.


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  5. #25
    Registered User reptilecatlady's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    Oh, and no, I'm not using a light. I'm using a heat fan. Her enclosure is in my bedroom so a light is out of the question for now.


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  6. #26
    BPnet Royalty Gio's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    Quote Originally Posted by reptilecatlady View Post
    Okay. I'll invest in a therm from that site. Question though. So I put the probe between the UTH and the enclosure. If it's too hot, then what? I mean how do you technically "regulate" it? I am appreciating all of your tips, trust me. I know I'm new at this.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The probe is NOT in the enclosure, correct. It is between the heat pad and the bottom of the enclosure on the outside.

    You set the T-stat to your desired hot spot temp, and usually a degree or 2 higher. The temp gun you get will tell you what the temp is inside of the cage.

    A quality T-stat like the ones shown will be spot on to what you set it at.

    So, if you set your Heprstat to say, 92 degrees. The device will control the power going to the heat pad and keep it there constantly. Herpstats don't click on and off but rather use slight increases and decreases in power to the heat source to keep it where it needs to be. It should never fall off temp and need to be heated up beyond the temp switch off and cool and click on and heat back up.

    Your question about "what if it is too hot?" should not arise because you are setting the temp with the T-stat. Heprstats have a safety feature where you can have an alarm sound when things are too hot or too cold, and IF they fail they fail OFF and not wide open.

    Your temp gun will give you the temp of the hot spot and if it is a little warmer than you want adjust the T-STAT down a degree or 2.

    That help??

    I'm not familiar with a "heat fan" but it sounds like something that blows warm dry air.

    Eventually you will want everything controlled within the micro environment verses blowing air from the outside onto your cage.

    I'm running out of time right now but start there.

    I'll be thrilled if you buy the Herpstat for starters!!
    Last edited by Gio; 10-10-2015 at 05:54 PM.

  7. #27
    Registered User reptilecatlady's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    Okay, how much does the Herpstat cost?


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  8. #28
    Registered User reptilecatlady's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    I'm out and not at my computer, so I'm reading these quickly, but yes, it helps. Thank you.


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  9. #29
    BPnet Senior Member GoingPostal's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    Quote Originally Posted by reptilecatlady View Post
    Okay, how much does the Herpstat cost?


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    Depends on how many devices it controls.
    http://www.spyderrobotics.com/store/...7321ffbbd796ef

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to GoingPostal For This Useful Post:

    Gio (10-10-2015)

  11. #30
    Registered User reptilecatlady's Avatar
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    Re: Humidity problems

    Quote Originally Posted by GoingPostal View Post
    Depends on how many devices it controls.
    http://www.spyderrobotics.com/store/...7321ffbbd796ef
    Wouldn't it only control... One? My UTH?


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