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Make sure you have adequate experience with other moderately sized constrictors - Coastal Carpet Pythons come to mind
Make sure you can afford their care - large caging, vet bills should they arise, and feeding (sourcing local is best)
Check for all permits and regulations from your state and local government. Remember, they can NOT be brought into texas or florida at current, and can NOT cross a state line unless you were a member of USARK before the ban was put into place (pre-april 2015).
Going to go against BCR on this one and say buy the morph you want the first time around - but buy from calm parents if applicable. Search. Don't impulse buy, ask questions to the breeder. Most of the guys I have worked with and work with will tell you their tics attitudes. But its a guideline, attitude will change overtime, for better or worse.
Start with a hatchling - Don't go all in on your first retic and start with a nice sized adult
Retics don't grow 30 ft in captivity . . . retics do not consistently grow larger than 20 ft even. MOST RETICS ARE UNDER 18' (Probably even 16')
There are serious risks involved: Their bite as an adult can land you in the hospital. You need to practice taking a bite from smaller snakes and not flinching to the point that you jerk your hand back. One of my largest fears is my wife getting tagged and jerking her arm back which will lacerate your skin WAY worse than a bite and release.
Pee burns in cuts. I advise this because 1) they pee a lot, 2) they pee often, 3) pee sponges may be part of the program to help. When you have other animals that may cut you up (cats, dogs, other snake bites) urine will burn your cuts. Prepare to wear gloves when cleaning it is a requirement for your own health.
They are fast. If you have only had experience with boas and balls, there is no comparison to how quick a retic can strike and be out of the cage.
Breeding aggression is real, and really dangerous. Dealing with this right now with my Goldenchild Jampea adult male, he is arching like mad, and cleaning his enclosure SUCKS. The second you open that glass he is out of the cage and in your face. He is OK when you have him out on your own terms, but when he comes out gunning for you, hooks, a second person, and a second containment area are a MUST.
Retics push. They will destroy their faces. Not all. But a lot. This can lead to injuries that might even need surgery. If you have an adult who is a sever pusher they can impale their own teeth into their lips. They can push glass doors out, and break them with force alone.
Retics are extremely rewarding animals to work with however. But they truly are not for everyone. Folks who say they are for everyone just want to try and justify to themselves they are capable of having one, or they are a breeder who is stuck on stock. Even SD retics can give folks a headache due to bites and flights.
If you want to learn more about SD retics - you can check my videos on youtube. www.youtube.com/reptileexperts
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Retics are my passion. Just ask.
www.wildimaging.net www.facebook.com/wildimaging
"...That which we do not understand, we fear. That which we fear, we destroy. Thus eliminating the fear" ~Explains every killed snake"
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The Following 10 Users Say Thank You to reptileexperts For This Useful Post:
distaff (09-23-2015),Eric Alan (09-23-2015),frostysBP (09-23-2015),GoingPostal (09-24-2015),jclaiborne (09-23-2015),JLC (09-23-2015),maudie (09-23-2015),Megg (09-23-2015),tbowman (09-24-2015),Tsanford (09-24-2015)
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