BP help needed

[bcr229]

Amazon delivers:
http://www.amazon.com/Zilla-11403-Co...dp/B0018CLYNG/

So does Reptile Basics:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/thermostats

This is the single most important piece of equipment for your snake. If your ball python is too cold it won't eat because it can't digest its meal. If it's too hot that can also stress it into not feeding, and if it gets over 105*F you risk neurological damage.

[aLittleLessButter]

If you decide to use the heat pad you need a thermostat and a way to monitor the temperature of the glass where the heat pad is. It's your responsibility as a snake owner. If you stick with just heat lamps then you should at least get a light dimmer from the hardware store so you can control the heat being put off of that

[Naraku]

Either way, finally assist fed him and he took the meal first go. Will keep updated if he throws up or not.

[Naraku]

He has kept it down.

[Penultimate]

Assisting is generally for hatchlings that have never ever ever ever had a meal before. It's not a good idea to assist him at this point, he doesn't need it. Also... with the heating the way it is... well, what temperature is his hot spot right now? If it's too cold, he can't digest his meal and that's very bad for him.

He is stressed and his heating isn't good, that's why he isn't eating. Buy a thermostat. Your snake could literally be burned to death if you don't get one! Please listen to us on this point. It is so, so important to get one. The hot spot should be ninety degrees and that's all. You can't keep it there without a thermostat.

He's not eating because he's uncomfortable. Make him comfortable and he will eat.

[Naraku]

Sorry for the late reply, in his 10 gallon his warm spot ranges between 85-95 and humidity is always 50-60%. He's definitely not shown any signs of discomfort that I can tell at least. He's active, explores his cage, I even added some fake leafs to surround him more and he just climbs and lays on them. So far I've assist fed him every week since the first when normal feeding does not work. (Never has so far) He's just to scared no matter the mouse/rat either alive or dead. He's also always taken the assist feeding in one go, and barely struggles during it. He's also stopped being head shy as well. Also the temps are right, got a electronic temp and it matches perfectly with the readings. He's just weird, when I take him out he shows 0 fear and explores the bed. Then the moment any rodent is near him, complete defense mode. He's not even scared of my 1 year old cat, but is a mouse. Trust me, I rather not assist feed him, I try not too but he was nearly a month+ without any food at 2 months old. From assist feeding he has improved so much. I do live rat pinkies and leave them with him for the night then will assist feed. Done dead rat/mice also he just never takes them.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Temps are still way too hot, too much fluctuation as well, and enclosure still does not provide enough security. Again read my first post on this thread and follow it to a T.



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[Naraku]

Temps are still way too hot, too much fluctuation as well, and enclosure still does not provide enough security. Again read my first post on this thread and follow it to a T.



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I'll update you on his cage, but really the only difference is I use newspaper as bedding as he likes to mess about with it to hide sometimes. Like I said I put 3 rather large fake plants in his cage, so it's not nearly as empty as before. Then again I can see them now being a issue with feeding as he climbs the leafs. And on average it's 85-90 only on rare occasions does it go over 90(when I turn off my fan in my room) 90% of the time it's easily 85-90. Keep in mind that's his warm side, he does have a cooler side with his water dish and now the plants. If I notice him bathing to cool down I'll generally lower his temps for him.

[FluppleWott]

The more you assist feed him at this point, the less likely he will be to accept food on his own and the more uncomfortable he will get.

Secondly, it's always a good idea to ask the breeder, in this case snakes at sunset, about the snakes previous living arrangements so you can try to replicate them until your snake is used to you.

I have a boa who, when a baby, wouldn't even poop on any other bedding than the pet store bedding. After awhile I was able to switch her onto something more practical.

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[Naraku]

The more you assist feed him at this point, the less likely he will be to accept food on his own and the more uncomfortable he will get.

Secondly, it's always a good idea to ask the breeder, in this case snakes at sunset, about the snakes previous living arrangements so you can try to replicate them until your snake is used to you.

I have a boa who, when a baby, wouldn't even poop on any other bedding than the pet store bedding. After awhile I was able to switch her onto something more practical.

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They were very unhelpful with my questions. They couldn't even give me a exact date of birth or a stable estimate. Didn't even tell me what he ate when asked just a its young so a few fuzzy livve mice and then move up to hoppers...