A Few Noob Questions

[Vanthios]

I've just gotten my first ball python. I've had him for about a day now. I purchased him and an enclosure from his previous owner, including a decent-sized tank and the substrate, single hide, small water dish, and few accessories that it lived in prior to its sale. For heating, all I have at this moment is a red night bulb and a very small heat pad. According to the ZooMed digital thermometer that I also received, it's only about 85 degrees Fahrenheit beneath this lamp. The probe is about six inches from the top of the tank. Should I be switching to something else? The previous owner has owned this ball python for about a year now. At first, I put the lamp on the side of the tank opposite from the single hide I was given and he never went under it. He didn't even go in the Habba Hut hide which has the heating pad beneath it. He stays in the corner beneath a small plastic plant. I read here (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet) that "It is best to provide two adequate hides in your BPs enclosure -- one on the warm end and one on the cooler end so that it does not have to make a choice between regulating its body temperature and feeling secure...." Having read this, I investigated and picked up my ball python and found that he seemed unusually cold. I moved the lamp from the side opposite of his hide to the side of his hide and put him back under the plant where he was. He's remained there since. I again held him to ensure that he was receiving the heat, and he was. Also according to the linked guide, ball pythons will move about the cage to adjust their own temperature, yet he hasn't moved. If he was cold and didn't move, then became hot and didn't move, what gives? I rearranged some of the stuff in the terrarium to create a small makeshift hide while I find the time to purchase him another, but he hasn't left the bush in the slightest. He just curls up in the corner of the terrarium beneath the bush and stays there, halfway exposed to the bulb.

Secondly, it's clear that the previous owner has not cleaned the terrarium in a while. I was wondering what's the best solution for cleaning the individual accessories in the cage. For the tank itself, I believe some ZooMed Wipe Out 1 from my local pet store will do for now.

Third, if the basking temperature under the bulb is not up to par with that described in the guide, what should I do? Should I purchase a fixture with a higher wattage and get a matching bulb? What about daytime bulbs?

Fourth, it seems that the ball python's skin, if that's what you want to call it, is excessed, where it looks loose and wrinkly, like this: http://i8.tinypic.com/5xh5rnp.jpg

I'm honestly really worried about this little guy. It seems like his previous owner never really did their research and that he has sort of suffered because of it. I'd really like some good advice in what I should do to solve some of these problems, as I'm not necessarily experienced myself, I've just done some mild research.

Thanks!

[Mr. Misha]

Hi and welcome to the forum. First things first, is the heating pad controlled by a thermostat? If it's not, turn it off until you get a thermostat for it. Thermostats regulate the heat of the heating pads also known as UTHs (under tank heaters). Secondly, take a photo of the enclosure and post it up. That way it will be easier for everyone to give you better advice regarding your setup. Here's a great thread regarding how to set up a glass terrarium (I'm pretty sure that's what you got him with):
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

In regards to the heating, 85 for hot side is ok but if I were you, I'd focus on the ambient temperature of the whole enclosure. If you can get the cooler side to be anywhere from 77-82F and your hot side is 85F, you'll be just fine. You don't need any daytime bulbs. As long as your tank gets some natural light in, that should be more than enough.

For cleaning, I personally use Natural Chemistry Healthy Habitat natural cleaner which doesn't have any "chemicals" (I'm sure it has natural enzyme chemicals) and is safe for animals and reptiles. I clean everything with it including the terrarium, hides, fake plants and water dishes. I usually buy a gallon of it and that lasts me quite a while.

The reason your Ball Python's skin is wrinkly is because he's trying to shed. You'll need to make sure you keep up the humidity in his tank at about 70-80% during this process. I'd suggest putting damp sphagnum moss in his hides and maybe around the tank until he sheds. That's probably another reason why he's not moving much. Ball Pythons aren't very active when they're shedding.

Hopefully this helps a bit. Get the photo of his terrarium up so other can chime in and help you out.

[200xth]

Also according to the linked guide, ball pythons will move about the cage to adjust their own temperature, yet he hasn't moved. If he was cold and didn't move, then became hot and didn't move, what gives?

He's probably stressed. From what you say, the previous owner may not have done such a great job taking care of him. Now, in the last 24 hours, you moved his home and changed his whole life around.

When they're settled in and acclimated, they'll move around to adjust temps, but when they're anxious or stressed it's very likely he'll find a place he feels safe and just camp there until he feels a bit more secure.

[mohawk]

I've just gotten my first ball python. I've had him for about a day now. I purchased him and an enclosure from his previous owner, including a decent-sized tank and the substrate, single hide, small water dish, and few accessories that it lived in prior to its sale. For heating, all I have at this moment is a red night bulb and a very small heat pad. According to the ZooMed digital thermometer that I also received, it's only about 85 degrees Fahrenheit beneath this lamp. The probe is about six inches from the top of the tank. Should I be switching to something else? !

The thermometer probe should be on the floor of the enclosure.
You need to know the temp where the snake is, not the temp near the light.

[Vanthios]

Hi and welcome to the forum. First things first, is the heating pad controlled by a thermostat? If it's not, turn it off until you get a thermostat for it. Thermostats regulate the heat of the heating pads also known as UTHs (under tank heaters). Secondly, take a photo of the enclosure and post it up. That way it will be easier for everyone to give you better advice regarding your setup. Here's a great thread regarding how to set up a glass terrarium (I'm pretty sure that's what you got him with):
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

In regards to the heating, 85 for hot side is ok but if I were you, I'd focus on the ambient temperature of the whole enclosure. If you can get the cooler side to be anywhere from 77-82F and your hot side is 85F, you'll be just fine. You don't need any daytime bulbs. As long as your tank gets some natural light in, that should be more than enough.

For cleaning, I personally use Natural Chemistry Healthy Habitat natural cleaner which doesn't have any "chemicals" (I'm sure it has natural enzyme chemicals) and is safe for animals and reptiles. I clean everything with it including the terrarium, hides, fake plants and water dishes. I usually buy a gallon of it and that lasts me quite a while.

The reason your Ball Python's skin is wrinkly is because he's trying to shed. You'll need to make sure you keep up the humidity in his tank at about 70-80% during this process. I'd suggest putting damp sphagnum moss in his hides and maybe around the tank until he sheds. That's probably another reason why he's not moving much. Ball Pythons aren't very active when they're shedding.

Hopefully this helps a bit. Get the photo of his terrarium up so other can chime in and help you out.

Thanks for your reply Misha. The heating pad is not controlled by a thermostat, and I disconnected it immediately after reading your post. At this moment I am online from work, so I'll take an image when I get home. I'll make sure to read the link you've posted.

I checked the lamp once again this morning, and it seems to be pretty consistent around 86, 87 degrees Fahrenheit. The lamp fixture I received with the snake is pretty bad, as the threading for the dome doesn't mesh with the fixture itself, so it sometimes falls out. I'm purchasing a new one regardless simply because of the fire and burn hazard. Would you recommend just getting a dimmable fixture and a high wattage red bulb so that I can just adjust the temperature of the warm end accordingly? I believe that I will need the capacity for more heat when the winter season comes. As for the temperature in the cool zone, it's dropping into the danger zones. When I recorded it last night, it was in the mid 70s. I'm becoming worried since it's likely that the items I'm ordering to improve his habitat won't arrive until Friday of this week or Monday of next week. In addition, I don't really have much control over my room temperature, which stays at about the mid 70s; I live with other occupants. Would you recommend getting a second fixture and mounting a ceramic heater in it to increase the ambient temperature and the temperature in the cool zone? I'm not really worried about lighting as much as I am the comfort of my snake.

I looked up the cleaning product you recommended on Amazon and was surprised that I had not before seen it in all of my research. On Amazon it has many high reviews, which is unlike many other cleaning solutions provided by ZooMed or Zilla. I've added it to my cart and intend to give it a try. As for your cleaning process, how are you using this product? At the moment I've got about 5 plastic tubs. Should I use one for washing the organic materials off all the accessories using Dawn, one for thoroughly rinsing off all the soap, one for spraying down the accessories with Healthy Habitat, and then one for rinsing everything off one last time? Should I be emptying and rinsing each bucket for each accessory to avoid putting organic materials from previous washes onto the current wash? When you spray the solution onto your habitat's accessories, do you let it set? Are you doing this in a separate container?

As for the poor shed, I really like the idea of the moss and have added it to my list of purchases. I believe it will work well with the hide that I'm purchasing for him because I can line the inside of it and bed it with some of the damp moss. With the heating pad beneath it, it should create a lot of contained humidity, right? He also has some pretty serious stuck shed, which I read about in another thread (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...nd-the-dangers). In that thread, user PyramidPythons recommends letting the ball python soak in lukewarm water for a while (under close supervision, of course), then carefully handling it with a damp towel to pull off the remaining dead skin. What is your take on this? I believe my fifth plastic tub will work well for this. As for the wrinkled skin, I believe the soaking would aid this; what do you think? The top of the terrarium is screen, but I don't want to seal it off to increase humidity since the caresheet specifically stated that you shouldn't sacrifice ventilation or contribute to stagnant air conditions (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...us)-Caresheet).

Thanks again for your post!

He's probably stressed. From what you say, the previous owner may not have done such a great job taking care of him. Now, in the last 24 hours, you moved his home and changed his whole life around.

When they're settled in and acclimated, they'll move around to adjust temps, but when they're anxious or stressed it's very likely he'll find a place he feels safe and just camp there until he feels a bit more secure.

That makes a lot of sense. Hopefully the additions I will be soon making will help him become more comfortable. Thanks for your input!

The thermometer probe should be on the floor of the enclosure.
You need to know the temp where the snake is, not the temp near the light.

Oh, my bad. Rookie mistake. I'll make sure to adjust it as soon as I get home.

[Asherah]

Since switching to my rack system I have had no shed issues, but when I first got into BP's and they were in tanks, putting the snake in a damp pillowcase for an hour or so always did the trick. It also seemed much less stressful than the tub and water method. They don't actually need to soak before a shed, and the soaking can actually remove beneficial oils.
Another popular method is to place damp towels over the top of the tank (leave some room for air flow) to help raise the humidity. They will mold, so you must be careful, but if I had BP's in a tank now, it would be my preferred method. Tanks are terrible at keeping the humidity up. If you search the forum you'll see some ingenious ideas that some people have come up with to help keep the humidity up in a tank.

Sounds like you are concerned for the welfare of your animal. Keep it up, keep reading/applying what you learn and soon you will have a happy healthy snake!

[JoshSloane]

Hey Vanthios

First off, thank you for taking in this bp, sounds like it has had a hard upbringing so far. Everyone on here has given some good advice, but I can see how it could be confusing and or expensive being put into this position of having to remediate care for the snake so quickly. Im going to give you what I consider to be a 'back to basics' simple approach for creating a sufficient environment for the snake, with the least possible cost involved. IMO its best to start out this way, and then you can tweak and modify as you get to know the snake better.

For this situation I would recommend using a heat pad as your only source of heat. I saw that you mentioned that the one provided was small compared to the tank it came in. I would also venture a guess that it might be old and possibly not holding temps that well. You are going to want to get a heat pad that is around 25-30% of the area of the floor of the cage. To regulate this, I like to use a simple lamp dimmer switch from home depot, which runs about 10$. To accurately check the temps of the pad, an infrared heat gun is an absolutely necessity, no matter which type of heat source is used. You can pick this up online for around 30$ or less I believe. With this method you plug the heat pad into the lamp dimmer, and then modulate the temps to achieve around 90 deg hot spot, using the infrared heat gun to calculate temps. As long as the tank is in a room that doesn't have wild variations in ambient temps, this should do just fine. A thermostat is always a more accurate way to modulate temps, but a good one will run you close to 100$. Save your money.

Next, you are going to want to limit ventilation on the screen top of the tank. There is a DIY guide to this in this forum. Basically it consists of using aluminum foil and duct tape to limit the amount of ventilation in the tank. This traps heat and humidity in the tank, and prevents it from escaping. If ventilation is properly controlled, your humidity and ambient temps should be fine without a heat lamp as well.

It sounds like you already have a couple hides, place one hide over the heat pad on the hot side of the enclosure, and one hide on the cool side. I like to put the water bowl in the middle of the tank. For me, using paper towels as a substrate works great initially, especially when the health of the snake is in question. You can add items to clutter up the tank, but we aware that anything that goes into the tank, must be cleaned appropriately.

As your snake is ready to shed, I would recommend making a humid hide for him. You can achieve this using a Tupperware container, cutting a hole big enough for the entry and exit of the snake, fill with damp sphagnum moss (also at home depot) and place in the cool side of the cage. Some like to leave the humid hide in indefinitely, and some just make it available during a shed.

To me this is the most sensible and realistic beginning enclosure for a recently acquired snake. Make sure to check the temps regularly, and look for signs of mites and any other signs of disease.

[Mr. Misha]

If the temperature is in mid 70s, that's still not too bad but you want to make sure that you have a digital thermometer on the cool side so you can monitor the temperature. You can pick one up at any hardware store for about $10-$15 bucks that will read both temperature and humidity. Once you figure out what your ambient temperatures hover around, you can decide whether you need an additional supplemental heating lamp. I also PM'd about some stuff I have for sale if you're interested.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_744231-1308-...tt=thermometer

In regards to the cleaning, no need to use soap if you're going to get the Healthy Habitat. I usually take everything I'm intending to clean out of the enclosure and put it in the sink or the tub. Then I spray the cleaner and scrub whatever needs scrubbing with a sponge. Then I rinse and put it back. I don't trust myself mixing chlorine or any other harsh chemicals so even though there's probably cheaper alternatives, at the end of the day I know that my snakes will be ok.

If there's multiple stuck sheds, soaking might not be a bad idea but as someone already mentioned, by soaking your Ball Python, you're washing away essential oils they use to take off the shed. If you keep your humidity up, they'll usually shed by themselves. There's definitely different ways to help your snake shed including the pillowcase method and others. You'll just have to experiment with whatever works best for you. The only thing I must warn you about is the eye caps. Don't try to take them off yourself because you might accidentally injure his eyes.

Since you have a screen top, you can close off at least 2/3rds of the terrariums screen without sacrificing ventilation. When I had glass terrariums, I used plastic squares that I put on top of the screen so the humidity doesn't escape as fast.

By the way, if you have a smartphone, dowload Tapatalk for the forum. It makes things much easier.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

[Vanthios]

Since switching to my rack system I have had no shed issues, but when I first got into BP's and they were in tanks, putting the snake in a damp pillowcase for an hour or so always did the trick. It also seemed much less stressful than the tub and water method. They don't actually need to soak before a shed, and the soaking can actually remove beneficial oils.
Another popular method is to place damp towels over the top of the tank (leave some room for air flow) to help raise the humidity. They will mold, so you must be careful, but if I had BP's in a tank now, it would be my preferred method. Tanks are terrible at keeping the humidity up. If you search the forum you'll see some ingenious ideas that some people have come up with to help keep the humidity up in a tank.

Sounds like you are concerned for the welfare of your animal. Keep it up, keep reading/applying what you learn and soon you will have a happy healthy snake!

I really liked the pillowcase idea because it sounds logical that the snake would move around and rub against the inside and really loosen up some of the stuck shed, but in a thread (http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...nd-the-dangers) I posted earlier, I read that it's more dangerous than a supervised soaking, where owners left their snakes in the damp pillow case unattended and the snake ended up suffocating. I'd really like to avoid removing any beneficial oils, but I'd also really like to be able to keep an eye on him for whatever method I'm using to remove the stuck shed.

I've noticed that in the three most recent responses I've been recommended to somewhat cover the top of the terrarium. I'll have to look into that, thanks.

Hey Vanthios

First off, thank you for taking in this bp, sounds like it has had a hard upbringing so far. Everyone on here has given some good advice, but I can see how it could be confusing and or expensive being put into this position of having to remediate care for the snake so quickly. Im going to give you what I consider to be a 'back to basics' simple approach for creating a sufficient environment for the snake, with the least possible cost involved. IMO its best to start out this way, and then you can tweak and modify as you get to know the snake better.

For this situation I would recommend using a heat pad as your only source of heat. I saw that you mentioned that the one provided was small compared to the tank it came in. I would also venture a guess that it might be old and possibly not holding temps that well. You are going to want to get a heat pad that is around 25-30% of the area of the floor of the cage. To regulate this, I like to use a simple lamp dimmer switch from home depot, which runs about 10$. To accurately check the temps of the pad, an infrared heat gun is an absolutely necessity, no matter which type of heat source is used. You can pick this up online for around 30$ or less I believe. With this method you plug the heat pad into the lamp dimmer, and then modulate the temps to achieve around 90 deg hot spot, using the infrared heat gun to calculate temps. As long as the tank is in a room that doesn't have wild variations in ambient temps, this should do just fine. A thermostat is always a more accurate way to modulate temps, but a good one will run you close to 100$. Save your money.

Next, you are going to want to limit ventilation on the screen top of the tank. There is a DIY guide to this in this forum. Basically it consists of using aluminum foil and duct tape to limit the amount of ventilation in the tank. This traps heat and humidity in the tank, and prevents it from escaping. If ventilation is properly controlled, your humidity and ambient temps should be fine without a heat lamp as well.

It sounds like you already have a couple hides, place one hide over the heat pad on the hot side of the enclosure, and one hide on the cool side. I like to put the water bowl in the middle of the tank. For me, using paper towels as a substrate works great initially, especially when the health of the snake is in question. You can add items to clutter up the tank, but we aware that anything that goes into the tank, must be cleaned appropriately.

As your snake is ready to shed, I would recommend making a humid hide for him. You can achieve this using a Tupperware container, cutting a hole big enough for the entry and exit of the snake, fill with damp sphagnum moss (also at home depot) and place in the cool side of the cage. Some like to leave the humid hide in indefinitely, and some just make it available during a shed.

To me this is the most sensible and realistic beginning enclosure for a recently acquired snake. Make sure to check the temps regularly, and look for signs of mites and any other signs of disease.

I've already ordered a heat pad that is about 26% the area of my terrarium. In addition, I purchased an inline controller. For the infrared heat gun, are you placing the mat beneath and measuring the surface temperature of the top of the substrate? If so, wouldn't that mean the pad would have to be a little higher than the target temperature? Couldn't the snake eventually work away the substrate and come into contact with the glass below as well as the hotter than ideal pad?

I'll have to look into the DIY guide; it's clear that covering up some of the screen top is a necessity.

Why place a humid hide on the cool side during a shed? If the moss is contained within a hide, wouldn't putting it over the heat pad be a good idea so that a very thick, very humid and warm hiding place is available? I've ordered some moss since it's been recommended a few times.

If the temperature is in mid 70s, that's still not too bad but you want to make sure that you have a digital thermometer on the cool side so you can monitor the temperature. You can pick one up at any hardware store for about $10-$15 bucks that will read both temperature and humidity. Once you figure out what your ambient temperatures hover around, you can decide whether you need an additional supplemental heating lamp. I also PM'd about some stuff I have for sale if you're interested.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_744231-1308-...tt=thermometer

In regards to the cleaning, no need to use soap if you're going to get the Healthy Habitat. I usually take everything I'm intending to clean out of the enclosure and put it in the sink or the tub. Then I spray the cleaner and scrub whatever needs scrubbing with a sponge. Then I rinse and put it back. I don't trust myself mixing chlorine or any other harsh chemicals so even though there's probably cheaper alternatives, at the end of the day I know that my snakes will be ok.

If there's multiple stuck sheds, soaking might not be a bad idea but as someone already mentioned, by soaking your Ball Python, you're washing away essential oils they use to take off the shed. If you keep your humidity up, they'll usually shed by themselves. There's definitely different ways to help your snake shed including the pillowcase method and others. You'll just have to experiment with whatever works best for you. The only thing I must warn you about is the eye caps. Don't try to take them off yourself because you might accidentally injure his eyes.

Since you have a screen top, you can close off at least 2/3rds of the terrariums screen without sacrificing ventilation. When I had glass terrariums, I used plastic squares that I put on top of the screen so the humidity doesn't escape as fast.

By the way, if you have a smartphone, dowload Tapatalk for the forum. It makes things much easier.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

I guess I should pass on the extra heating lamp for now and just use the heating pad as my primary and the red bulb as a general heater to keep the humidity and create a quality gradient.

I'm with you on the DIY chemicals thing. I'd continuously worry about the safety of my mixture in regards to my ball python. Thank you for sharing your cleaning procedure. I've been over analyzing it, as I do with everything, and began to think that I'd need one of those secret agency super-sterilization rooms just to keep the terrarium clean.

I'll have to look into some quality screen covers and that app! Thanks again for your reply and your advice.

[Asherah]

I never had issues, but the pillow cases were only damp not soaked. They were also left for short times and supervised. If you do it be sure minimize risks. Personally, I'd do my best to get husbandy on par. If the humidity is good the snake should shed on it's own.