Non- light emitting heat bulb

[alucard0822]

I have a 100w Zoo med CHE that has been on(regulated with thermostat) for 4 years now, no problem at all, in fact never had one burn out when regulated. They don't project heat to the substrate as well as a heat bulb, but being they heat and cool much slower they work better for regulating air temps with a thermostat. I use them in dual dome fixtures, even if you only use a CHE on one side it heats up a larger area, and vents better, always want to use a larger, taller fixture, I've measured over 500 degrees on the face, if it's too close to the mesh top it can easily melt stuff, or burn your snake.

I have had great luck with my current setup, costs more, but keeps temp much easier, a dual dome with a black/night bulb on a rheostat, and a CHE next to it on a thermostat. Once the rheostat is set so the temps on both ends of the fixture are close, or perhaps a bit less on the bulb side, it is the best of both worlds, consistent heat along with better IR projection deep into the tank, and being a larger and less intense heated area it doesn't get the screen as hot, or burn off humidity. At 65 degrees In the house at night the fixtures measure between 100 and 110 degrees(most of the top is enclosed), but the screen, 2" away from the bulbs only gets up to about 95-100 degrees to keep the air temp and substrate 80-82, top of the hide or pieces of cork bark about 10" high get between 85-90. Before, when I had the CHE or black light only, the single bulb fixture got to 125-130, and the screen got to 110 to maintain the same temps, the 100W CHE heated more evenly, the 75w black light got elevated sufaces up to 95-100 for the substrate to hit 80.