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  1. #1
    Registered User firefightergirl's Avatar
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    Non- light emitting heat bulb

    We want to switch to a non-light emitting bulb, any suggestions on if they are good or how long they last? Or what another heat option is other than uth or heat lamps

  2. #2
    BPnet Lifer Reinz's Avatar
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    Non- light emitting heat bulb

    Many here like the Ceramic bulbs.

    I was down on them but just recently learned that I did not buy correctly.

    I bought watt for watt. Meaning that to replace my 60-75 watt heat light bulb, I bought a 60 watt ceramic. Boy what a gyp! It had a fraction of the heat.

    Recently a member here told me that I should have got a 150. So that's next on the list.

    Last edited by Reinz; 02-20-2015 at 01:14 AM.
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  3. #3
    BPnet Veteran Spoons's Avatar
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    I use ceramic. I use a... 75 watt? For a 20 gallon tank and it brings it up to 80 degrees. Though, it's usually pretty warm in my house too, so there is that.

  4. #4
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    A CHE is a great choice. The key to them is using the correct style of fixture. They burn out quickly when the wrong fixture is used because the heat back up in the fixture and burns out the unit. I like the wire cage style fixtures. I have a 100 watt CHE using a wire fixture that has been on 24/7 for 365 at full power for over two years and it still works. It is much less than bulbs would have added up to in that amount of time.

    On the box of the CHE is suggest the cage size to use with each watt.
    Last edited by KMG; 02-20-2015 at 02:00 AM.
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  5. #5
    BPnet Senior Member Rickys_Reptiles's Avatar
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    I liked ceramic bulbs a lot when I used tanks. I find the best thing to do is use a higher wattage bulb on a thermostat. Start with a 150 watt bulb in most cases! If you have a very tall tank you may need a higher wattage, but 150 is usually good.

    As far as how long do they last, this will depend how much you move it around. The weakest part of the bulb is where the ceramic attaches to the metal housing to screw it in to the light socket. If you screw and unscrew the bulb often, then it's not going to last as long. If you just leave it alone then it'll last for a few years.

    Also, there are various brands of bulb, some black some white...they're all the same pretty much. So buy what's on sale

  6. #6
    Registered User alucard0822's Avatar
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    I have a 100w Zoo med CHE that has been on(regulated with thermostat) for 4 years now, no problem at all, in fact never had one burn out when regulated. They don't project heat to the substrate as well as a heat bulb, but being they heat and cool much slower they work better for regulating air temps with a thermostat. I use them in dual dome fixtures, even if you only use a CHE on one side it heats up a larger area, and vents better, always want to use a larger, taller fixture, I've measured over 500 degrees on the face, if it's too close to the mesh top it can easily melt stuff, or burn your snake.

    I have had great luck with my current setup, costs more, but keeps temp much easier, a dual dome with a black/night bulb on a rheostat, and a CHE next to it on a thermostat. Once the rheostat is set so the temps on both ends of the fixture are close, or perhaps a bit less on the bulb side, it is the best of both worlds, consistent heat along with better IR projection deep into the tank, and being a larger and less intense heated area it doesn't get the screen as hot, or burn off humidity. At 65 degrees In the house at night the fixtures measure between 100 and 110 degrees(most of the top is enclosed), but the screen, 2" away from the bulbs only gets up to about 95-100 degrees to keep the air temp and substrate 80-82, top of the hide or pieces of cork bark about 10" high get between 85-90. Before, when I had the CHE or black light only, the single bulb fixture got to 125-130, and the screen got to 110 to maintain the same temps, the 100W CHE heated more evenly, the 75w black light got elevated sufaces up to 95-100 for the substrate to hit 80.
    Last edited by alucard0822; 02-20-2015 at 03:02 PM.

  7. #7
    Registered User firefightergirl's Avatar
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    Re: Non- light emitting heat bulb

    Will a non-light emitting bulb fit in this??

  8. #8
    Registered User firefightergirl's Avatar
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    Re: Non- light emitting heat bulb


  9. #9
    BPnet Royalty KMG's Avatar
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    Maybe the smaller ones. The large ones will be pretty close to the cones side and create to much back heat.

    The che box shows you what they suggest to use. I would follow what it says. I personally like the wire fixture that is purpose built for them.

    I would also suggest using a lamp stand. A che gets unbelievably hot, over 600-800 degrees. Moving such a thing can be very dangerous. Plus bouncing it around shortens the life of bulbs and che devices.

    http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Wire-C...BKP5ZA24VPK620

    http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptil...med+lamp+stand
    KMG
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  10. #10
    Registered User firefightergirl's Avatar
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    Re: Non- light emitting heat bulb

    We are looking into the stand I saw one today that I like and will be budgeting it in and I am not familiar with the wire fixture

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