Some questions

[jinaragunlark]

Hello everyone!

I'm new here to for forums, as well as a new BP owner. I had one with my uncle a few years ago, but I finally have one myself (I tried to sell my beardie and the guy offered me to trade for a bp instead..... I couldn't turn it down).

So, here are some questions:

Infared spot bulb: How long should this be on? Should I leave it on 24 hours on the hot side or connect it to my timer?

Temps: What are the ideal temps and humidities for both hot and cool sides? I've done plenty of research and reading, but I want to hear from you guys as well.

Scales: My BP seems to have what I might describe as partial sheds? There are parts of his body that feel like shedding but it hasn't really started yet.

Age: How can I tell the age? The previous owner said he was young, and I can tell he is, but I'd like a little bit better of an idea.

Hide: I put his secondary hide on the UTH. Is this a good idea? Is it okay? I also put the probe from my electronic therm in here is as well to. I've got an analog therm here on the hot side as well. Should I move the probe the UV spot?

UTH: I was a little skeptical about this. I have the small ZooMed heater. Is there a way to regulate the temp other than watching it? I have it connected to my adjuster just in case it gets too hot, but should I hook the adjuster to the UV spot instead?
Theres some more, but I'll remember them later.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Your temps should be stable and consistant 24/7 so whatever is used to achieve this need to be on 24/7

Ideal temps 76/80 (cool) to 88/90 (warm)

Shedding: Provide proper humidity at all time 50% which can be raise when in shed to 70%, once the animal sheds if there is some stuck shed, simply get a towel run it under warm water, remove excess water and let your snake slither through it allowing it to rub itself which will help remove any left over shed.

Age: Cannot be determine as animals grow at different rate which is based entirely on feeding (prey size, frequency, consistency).

You should have an hide on the warm side however if the probe is in the hide it will give you a false reading as heat will build up not having anywhere to go, additionally BP are nocturnal and do not require UV.

UTH Uth are the most efficient way to provide heat (since heat travels up) however like any heat source it MUST be controlled by a thermostat so the temperatures are stable but also to avoid burns

Please read our caresheet http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

And refer to this http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

[Sammiebob]

Infared spot bulb: How long should this be on? Should I leave it on 24 hours on the hot side or connect it to my timer?

You don't need an infrared bulb for your snake, the only reason people use them is because they want to be able to see the snake at night but I'm assuming you don't stay awake at night lol

Temps: What are the ideal temps and humidities for both hot and cool sides? I've done plenty of research and reading, but I want to hear from you guys as well.

Hot spot should be about 90° F, humidity should be around 50-60% on normal days and when in shed, try your best to keep it up around 70%

Scales: My BP seems to have what I might describe as partial sheds? There are parts of his body that feel like shedding but it hasn't really started yet.

Bump up the humidity by misting his enclosure, and dampen a rag and allow him to slither through it a few times. Do not I repeat DO NOT ever pull of shed. If it is really stuck and not meant to come off and you pull it off, it will absolutely do more harm than good. If your humidity is correct, it will come of with the next shed.

Age: How can I tell the age? The previous owner said he was young, and I can tell he is, but I'd like a little bit better of an idea.

You can't really tell unless you know the hatch date. It could be a power fed baby, in which case it would be bigger than it's supposed to, or it could be severely underfed, in which case it would be WAY too small for it's age.

Hide: I put his secondary hide on the UTH. Is this a good idea? Is it okay? I also put the probe from my electronic therm in here is as well to. I've got an analog therm here on the hot side as well. Should I move the probe the UV spot?

I don't really understand this question. You should have a probe thermometer measuring the temp on the hot side, and that's all. Do you have a thermostat controlling the UTH?

UTH : I was a little skeptical about this. I have the small ZooMed heater. Is there a way to regulate the temp other than watching it? I have it connected to my adjuster just in case it gets too hot, but should I hook the adjuster to the UV spot instead?

Again, get rid of the UV spot. Snakes do not need UV light. They are nocturnal by nature, so they are never exposed to natural sunlight. It's just not necessary. It doesn't help the snake at all in any way. You need to have a thermostat hooked up to that heading pad, if you don't, turn it off right now until you get a thermostat because it will burn your snake if you don't have a thermostat. Hope this helps.

[Sammiebob]

Your temps should be stable and consistant 24/7 so whatever is used to achieve this need to be on 24/7

Ideal temps 76/80 (cool) to 88/90 (warm)

Shedding: Provide proper humidity at all time 50% which can be raise when in shed to 70%, once the animal sheds if there is some stuck shed, simply get a towel run it under warm water, remove excess water and let your snake slither through it allowing it to rub itself which will help remove any left over shed.

Age: Cannot be determine as animals grow at different rate which is based entirely on feeding (prey size, frequency, consistency).

You should have an hide on the warm side however if the probe is in the hide it will give you a false reading as heat will build up not having anywhere to go, additionally BP are nocturnal and do not require UV.

UTH Uth are the most efficient way to provide heat (since heat travels up) however like any heat source it MUST be controlled by a thermostat so the temperatures are stable but also to avoid burns

Please read our caresheet http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...ius)-Caresheet

And refer to this http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

Sorry Deborah, I was still typing when you replied. Great links BTW.

[jinaragunlark]

Okay, cool. Thanks for the information.

So what's a good way to keep the hot side warmer? A regular heating bulb? I picked one up for lighting. Should I return the UV bulb ( I thought to use it to regulate temp at night)?

Regulating the heating pad was my biggest question I had for the people at persmart and the guy just...didn't know... -_- So if I go back, and they don't have one, what should I do?

[jinaragunlark]

Also the thermo on the cool side is reading 75-77 constantly. How do I get this up as well as the hot side?

[jinaragunlark]

The humidity is pretty good in the tank, on both hydrometers, so I'm less worried about that.

Also: Is humidity above 70 bad? I heard of scale rot. Is that what happens when it reaches those high %s for extended periods of time?

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Okay, cool. Thanks for the information.

So what's a good way to keep the hot side warmer? A regular heating bulb? I picked one up for lighting. Should I return the UV bulb ( I thought to use it to regulate temp at night)?

Regulating the heating pad was my biggest question I had for the people at persmart and the guy just...didn't know... -_- So if I go back, and they don't have one, what should I do?

Also the thermo on the cool side is reading 75-77 constantly. How do I get this up as well as the hot side?

The most efficient way to keep the hot side within proper range will be with a UTH and a T-stat.

Cool side is within range so long it does not fall below 75 you are fine, the cool side depends on the ambient temp of your room, should it become very cold you will have to consider an additional heating element and t-stat for the winter.

[jinaragunlark]

I see. The temp of the room will bring the tank sub 70 without an additional element, which is another reason I wanted to use the UV. This was I can keep the over all temp of the tank within safe ranges while also providing the day/night cycle. And I'll definately need to do this if my UTH doesn't have a regulator.

[jinaragunlark]

Oh. Wait. I'm dumb. I meant to say infrared, not UV. I have a 100w infrared bulb for my hot side.