How long?

[digizure]

How long would you wait before you force/assist feed a hatchling? I know they can live without feeding for quite some time after they hatched but its been a month and half. I'm starting to get concerned.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

It's a case by case basis there is no "at so many weeks the animal should be assisted"

Usually once the shed I will offer food same prey for 3 weeks, if that does not work I offer a different prey for the next 3 weeks.

If that fails I use the brown bag method or ad crumble newspaper in the tub.

All that is based on an animals that absorbed it's yolk, and is healthy, I also go by their look.

Can you tell us more on the setup, temps, how food is offered and what you have tried.

How many out of the clutch have not taken a meal?

[Velrys]

You mention that this is a hatchling but not if it is yours or you bought it as a hatchling so I'm sorry if these are remedial questions or comments I don't mean any offense.


As long as the animal has energy it is not in danger. I have never force fed an animal that has had the energy to potentially eat on its own.

Striking, trying to escape, looking around are all examples of a snake that have energy and are not in danger.

An animal that is limp in your hands, doesn't move AT ALL when offered food, is an animal that lacks the energy to eat and can no longer do so even if it wanted to. This is an animal that is in need of force feeding.

Unfortunately I took in a petstore rescue that was at this point. I was very concerned with force feeding, had never needed to before, but that snake is now a healthy rat disposal.

I force fed this animal three times and only at the lack of energy point. Of course I offered regularly and it often even struck but never wrapped.

I did NOT change the food item I was offering to add confusion to the process. The thing I was feeding it smelled the same whether I was forcing or offering with the intention that the snake would know how to identify food.

I did bump the temp of the item up just a little.

I also did NOT stress the snake out by putting it in a paper bag that smelled a lot like rat. I did however trash a medium rat but significantly overheating it and put it in the enclosure before feeding. I knew it was not going to be eaten but I was trying to get the rat smell in without moving the snake.

I NEVER handle problem eaters until they are eating regularly. Snakes don't actually like being handled they are just more or less comfortable with it so by not handling I attempt to remove any kind of stress that may provide.


Each animal is different so just because the rest of the clutch has eaten, if this is your hatchling, you should not be worried about this one.

It would help to make sure the rest of your ducks are in order as well.

The temperatures the snake lives in can have an effect on it's eating. What temperature is the hot spot? How is the heat regulated and how are you monitoring the heat? What temperature is the rest of the enclosure? same questions here.

Also the temperature of the food item you are offering can have an effect. What temperature is the food item you are offering? How do you heat it?

Just covering all the bases, hope something helps! But like I said, you should judge it more on the actions of the snake not on how long its been.

[Velrys]

hey sorry, that post ended up being really long.

the TL : DR version is,

If your snake has enough energy to potentially eat don't force feed. If it lacks the energy to eat even if it wanted to then do force feed. This should be judged entirely based on behavior not any length of time.

Don't confuse or stress the animal by switching food items or handling it/moving it.

Good luck!

[digizure]

The hatchling is one of my own. I've had problem feeder before and learned how to deal with it. The hatchling I have, I gave her a fuzzy mouse which she did not take for three weeks so I tried pinkie rats for two weeks and she did not take. She does seem ok which is why I wouldn't force feed her yet.

Looking for ideas on how to get her to eat...

Her tub is set at 90 degrees and 80 at the cool area. There is a hide and a water bowl. I attempt to feed her every 7 days.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

The hatchling is one of my own. I've had problem feeder before and learned how to deal with it. The hatchling I have, I gave her a fuzzy mouse which she did not take for three weeks so I tried pinkie rats for two weeks and she did not take. She does seem ok which is why I wouldn't force feed her yet.

Looking for ideas on how to get her to eat...

Her tub is set at 90 degrees and 80 at the cool area. There is a hide and a water bowl. I attempt to feed her every 7 days.

I would slightly lower the temp assuming you are keeping her in a 6 quart tub this leaves very little room to thermoregulate.

I would lower to 86/88.

If you have no done so, use aspen as bedding you would be surprise of the difference it makes with hatchlings.

Also because they are all different try to put a plastic flower pot saucers (about 6 inches) for hide, over the years I had hatchlings that did not want to eat and then soon as they were provided with a hide they did.

And again crumble newspaper, brown paper bag and most importantly keep an eye on it and make sure she is well hydrated.

[digizure]

I'll give the crumbled newspaper and aspen bedding a shot. I don't really like the idea of lowering the temp because she is in 12 qt tub that is narrow, short and long. It can get pretty cool at the other end. There are two hides so she can thermoregulate without stress.

[digizure]

November 10 will be two months. They seem to be moving alright but I'm concerned and thinking about assist feeding.