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1. I've never used any of those, and I'm not even sure which is which because I have a hard time keeping all the brands straight. What I will say is that you should use a substrate that won't be easy for crickets to hide in, like aspen or coconut fiber would. I use peat moss, but if you used long-strand moss I'd mix it in with sand or potting soil or both to weigh it down and make it hard for crix to hide. Also, if you use a loose substrate, don't make it too deep because the cresties will get a little in their mouths when they hunt. If it's just a little, they'll wipe their mouths on a nearby branch or what have you and be fine, but if it's too deep they can get a mouthful that they can't get out without your help.

2. Look for a lack of preservatives and no added sugar. Beyond that, you should be fine.

3. Females store calcium for egg production in their calcium sacs. I don't know that they have much of a role except just as a general reserve for males, but females tend to have larger sacs.

4. I don't have any resources I can point you to, but it seems to me that there was a reason to avoid berries, possibly because the acid content was too high? I'd think they'd do fine with mango, papaya, melon, etc., though.

5. That size should be okay for a single adult, but if you start with a baby you might want to start out with a small upright Rubbermaid (they have some with a locking top that are around 12"-14" high) and paper towel or newspaper substrate to make it easier for the cute-but-not-too-bright baby gecko to find its food. As far as vents go, I'd suggest both sides for a cross-breeze, but you need to consider how you'll be misting them, too, because that is generally how they'll get their drinking water. Sandiego really likes the birdcage water dish I attached to the side of his and Carmen's cage, but he uses it for cooling his tuckus, not for drinking.

6. Pothos are cheap, fairly durable, and do well in low light conditions. I've bought three plants for my geckos, and while all three are still alive, the pothos is doing the best by far. Better yet, they are inexpensive, so if you have no green thumb and manage to kill it, you haven't wasted a lot of money. For me, the live plants are easier to deal with because I leave them in their pots and can pull them out and rinse the "fertilizer" off the leaves and down into their soil, whereas the fake plants have to be attached to the cage somehow, which means they have to be detached for cleaning.

7. Easy enough to just put in a dish of crested gecko diet every day, but juvies need more protein and should have either crickets or gargoyle gecko diet at least twice a week. Feeding them crickets with calcium twice a week and fruit with herptivite 2-3 times a week is also a good way to go. Just make sure that either your vitamins or your calcium doesn't have vitamin D. You want it in one but not in both.

Hope this helps!