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  1. #1
    BPnet Veteran
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    Hi I'm new to the boards, but have been reading about BP for a while now. I've finally saved enough money to be able to afford one and so after all my research I went out today and bought my supplies. But after searching and reading for a while, I can't seem to figure out what size BP I should get .

    I would assume it would be easier on me to get a BP thats already somewhat developed as I think it would be easier. But then again there is something alluring about raising a BP from a baby too. Can anyone suggest the size/length/age of a BP for a first snake, and some reasons for why your suggestion is a good idea? Any answers would be appreciated ^_^ It's also making it hard for me to decide on what size hide I need to get.

    And anyone that is interested the supplies I bought were:

    90qt Sterilite Container (can bring it back for smaller if I decide to get a baby)
    Dunlap Heating Pad for UTH
    Digital Themometer with Probe
    Digital Themometer with Probe and Hygrometer

    I'm going to the petstore later today to see what they have in the way of water dishes and hides and such.

  2. #2
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    Personally, I would recommend a baby ball python. Just like any other pet, if you get a bp when its a baby, it will grow acustom easier and (probably) be more docile as it grows because obviously, it will know you. However, I don't think you would have a problem with a older ball python either (unless of course it is wild caught).

    I think there is also something to be said about actually watching your ball python grow and mature. I think its an awesome experience which will bring you closer to your pet. Hope this helps.
    ~ Kenji

    0.1 Ball Python (Munch)

  3. #3
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    Look like you got the exact same setup as i do. LOL I would start with a baby ball python. And you can probibly start with the 90qt but be sure to put lots of hiding places and some fake vines for them to hide under and pass from hide to hide unnoticed. It is preferable to use a smaller sterilite but i would keep the 90qt and and buy a smaller one and use either one as a feeding bin.

    It look like you are off to a great start. It makes me feel happy when someone puts everything together before going out and buying a snake. It shows real maturity on your part. I foresee that you will be a great keeper for you new pal. Welcome to Ball-Pythons.net. If you have any other questions please dont hesitate to ask.
    Thanks,
    Damien
    0.1 2001 Ball Python 1200 grams.
    1.0 1994 Ball Python 3800 Grams.


  4. #4
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    Duct Tape

    Baby, definitely. Right now, they should be very inexpensive at a reptile show. I've seen them from 10 to 30 bucks.
    (¯`·.¸¸.·´Kane`·.¸¸.·´¯)

  5. #5
    BPnet Veteran elevatethis's Avatar
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    Raising a baby ball isn't as complicated as raising other young species of reptiles. The only issues you will need to keep track of when they are young is how and when to increase the size of their prey. For example, when it is young, it will be eating younger mice such as fuzzies, then hoppers. After that, smaller adult mice will be appropriate and eventually they will be eating full grown adults. Plan on increasing the prey size once every several weeks for their first 9 months or so. My bp is about 5 months old and is already eating retired adult breeder mice. She went grew out of hoppers and on to adult mice in less than a month a little while back.

    I try my best to serve a mouse that is just about the same size as the largest point of amber's girth, I include the extra size the mouse's fir provides just to be safe. I'm sure she would be able to get something bigger than even that down, but these mice have left her quite satisfied. I'll be moving her on to small rats within the next few months. Although she's having no problem with aduly mice, I really think its too soon to try to feed her rats.
    -Brad

  6. #6
    BPnet Veteran SatanicIntention's Avatar
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    I've heard from alot of people around here and read in a few places that baby BP's can take an adult mouse straight out of the egg, maybe a small adult, but not hoppers and definately not fuzzies. Those last two just don't seem to be a substantial enough meal for the BP, even though the babies are small. Also, if you are getting your BP from a breeder, it won't come to you straight out of the egg, the breeder "should" (if he/she is reputable enough) have the BP eat a few times, get a little weight on it, and then send it to you. Having the baby eat the small adult mice provides them with the needed calcium and other nutrients that a hopper or fuzzy just hasn't developed yet, for example: Bones . Hopper and fuzzy mice, if I'm not mistaken, are still pretty much rubber(cartilage) instead of bone. So if that is the case, then the BP won't be getting the nutrients it needs early on in life and may have complications further down the road, which none of us wants (I hope...) Sorry to blabber on so much, just trying to help straighten out stuff. If anything I said was incorrect, someone please jump right on in.
    --Becky--
    ?.? Normals, 1.0 100% Het Pied Classic Jungle, 1.0 Yellow Hypo, 0.1 100% Het Butterscotch Hypo, 0.1 100% Het VPI Hypo, 0.1 100% Het Yellow Hypo, 1.0 Enchi, 1.1 Yellowbellies, 0.1 YB Granite, 1.0 Black Pastel, 1.0 Lemon Pastel, 0.1 50% Possible Het Banded Albino, 0.1 Spider, 1.0 Fire, 0.2 Granite

  7. #7
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    The rule of thumb as far as feeding goes says that they can eat the same size as widest part of their body. My baby ball is eating large hopper or small adult mice. After a few fuzzys they should quickly move to hoppers then after a few of those to small mice then to medium sized mice. Then to small rats.
    Thanks,
    Damien
    0.1 2001 Ball Python 1200 grams.
    1.0 1994 Ball Python 3800 Grams.


  8. #8
    BPnet Veteran Marla's Avatar
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    Becky, agreed, but some babies may just be too small and need to start on hoppers though they should be moved up in the matter of several weeks to adult mice. As far as what size snake is best, I'd say ideal for a beginner is something like one of the males Hillary Webb was selling off recently, a yearling or near-yearling CBB well established on eating frozen-thawed and already used to being handled.
    3.1.1 BP (Snyder, Hanover, Bo Peep, Sir NAITF, Eve), 1.2.3 Rhacodactylus ciliatus (Sandiego, Carmen, Scooby, Camo, BABIES ), 1.0 Chow (Buddha), 0.2 cats (Jezebel, PCBH "Nanners"), 0.3 humans
    xnview for resizing and coverting pics

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  9. #9
    _\m/ Smulkin's Avatar
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    Adult mouse right out of the egg is caca - can't tell you how skeptical I am of that - especially after watching Smynx feed her 3 new babies. The tail would likely be hangin out of their mouths - and the girth!!! Ouch. And sometimes even though a snake CAN take injuriously large prey relative to it's size doesn't mean it should be done. Even in the wild snakes can get in over their heads and literally bite off more than they can chew - choking themselves (very rare but docuemnted in a few cases with AfRocks - of course it is fairly difficult to regurge something antlered like a gazelle).

    "I don't FEEL tardy . . ."


  10. #10
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    Glad to see you made over to this forum. Sounds like you are off to a great start. I'd love to see a pic of your setup and your BP sometime.

    Personally, I prefer young snakes - feels like I've raised them. Your setup sounds great. The size is fine, just be sure to offer plenty of hides if you get a little BP. You should have no problem getting a young BP at a reptile show. Go for small hides - tight, low and snug. The flower pot bases and butter tubs are a good start. If you want something more 'natural' looking you might be able to find some of the half coconut hides a the petstore.

    Always such a relief to find someone who really wants to do things right and not rush into them.

    Keep us posted!
    Ball Python, Bredl's Carpet Python, Kenyan Sand Boa, Saharan Sand Boa
    Mexican Black King, California King, Snow Corn, Okeetee Corn, Everglades Ratsnake
    Blue Tongued Skinks: Irian Jaya (2), Indonesian, Northern, Tanimbar, Eastern, Kei, Merauke
    Crested Gecko

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