Gap or no gap when building snake rack

[mvan49]

Would love some feedback on the preferred method to vent tubs in snake rack. The rack will be only for BPs 300g to 2000g using 28q tubs. Should I leave a 1/4" gap at the top and not drill holes in the tub or leave no gap and drill holes in the tubs. Using back heating flexwatt sides of the rack enclosed. Thanks in advance.

[creatism]

I would think that's enough air flow. That's all the gap my 28s have and humidity is good in the rack


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[mvan49]

Thanks thats what I was looking for. Even some of my smaller BPs their head look way to big to fit through a 1/4" gap. I don't want any getting out by accident.

[Rickys_Reptiles]

I have a gap and also drill holes.

[Stewart_Reptiles]

Keep in mind that wood expend and contract so if you do not leave a gap, you will issues opening and closing your tubs down the road.

[MrLang]

I would drill holes as well. There's enough air to breathe with 1/4" along the top, but almost zero air circulation down by the floor that way. I would be worried about making petri dishes out of the tubs. I've seen a lot of people who don't drill holes and the tub walls are always fogged up and wet. If the animal pees, there is uncirculating ammonia air in there. The list goes on... if you need humidity, I would always run a humidifier in the room before sacrificing air flow for it.

[Reptile Frenzy]

We have a gap as thick as a piece of pegboard. We use the pegboard as a spacer instead of cd's. We do not drill holesin the tubs because we dont want too much heat and moisture escaping. Also we perfer belly heat over back heat because we believe it helps with digestion of food when they can lay directly on their heat source plus we just perfer the snake being warmed from bottom up instead of side out.