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  1. #1
    Registered User mere_dith's Avatar
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    New here, lots to learn :)

    Hi guys!

    I just purchased my first ball python about a week ago. I've been doing lots of research and I was always brought back to this site so I decided to join as I'm already hooked! He/she is super sweet and relaxed, just hangs out with me for the most part when out and I love it. However, I'm having some issues keeping my cage at a consistent temp. and higher humidity. The tank set I bought came with a smaller under tank heater and a day lamp and the wattage wasn't listed but it seems to keep the cage between 85-90 degrees. I also bought a 100 watt red bulb to keep the cage warmer at night since I live in the midwest where it is currently under 15 degrees outside most often at this time and I live in a very old house that is relatively cool during these months. I have a space heater in the living room where I usually handle him/her and also one in my bedroom where his/her tank is all while having the thermostat as high as possible.

    But anyways, the tank is a 20 gallon tank, since it's pretty young, but I do know I'll have to upgrade eventually. I use 100% natural cypress mulch to help with the humidity and have a nice half log hide with several suction cupped vines he/she likes to hang out on along with a bowl for soaking/drinking and a branch for it to relax on. I keep the under tank heater under the hide and mist several times a day along with keeping a moistened towel partially covering the top and that has worked wonders. But I was wondering if anyone had additional suggestions for me?

    Also, I haven't fed him/her yet and I was wondering about in tank/out of tank feeding? I could only find one thread on here and no one mentioned the possibility of the bp ingesting any of the substrate? That was my only concern. I am going to try f/t and hopefully he/she takes to it! Is after a shed a good time to feed? It's been home for about a week and I was wondering when was good to try.

    And one more thing, I apologize for all of the questions, but I noticed him/her making a very faint and inconsistent popping noise a day or two after I got him/her. It is not consistent with his/her breathing but is on occasion. I looked in his/her nose with a light and did not see any bubbled or obstructions and am trying to observe his/her mouth for mucus/bubbles. He/she also just shed (mostly clean!) a few hours ago and I noticed it's eyes clouding up days ago so I didn't know if it would have something to do with that? It's very strong and almost seems more active and happy now that it's shed but I'm worried about the popping. It hasn't gotten worse or better. I am planning to make a vet appointment soon if it doesn't subside.

    I'm excited to join this site and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks guys!

    (I'm not sure how to insert pictures from a file or I would have
    Last edited by mere_dith; 02-08-2014 at 10:12 PM.

  2. #2
    Registered User NH93's Avatar
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    Make sure you have a THERMOSTAT for that UTH!! That is first ans foremost of importance, as it controls the UTH which will get hot enough to burn your snake otherwise! That is an essential and typically none negotiable piece of equipment with heat sources. Here is a link to a fairly inexpensive and decent thermostat:
    http://www.amazon.ca/Jumpstart-Digit...art+thermostat

    That half log hide isn't enough for your little pal. It doesn't do a lot for privacy and security, ESPECIALLY in a 20 gal. glass vive. You will want to cover up 3 out of the 4 sides with (dark) paper, and add in, I'd say, another couple of hides. This can be anything simple from little cardboard boxes to plastic containers. Just make sure they stay clean, and throw out the cardboard after a couple of weeks or when it is soiled.
    The general rule is one hide per side; one for the cool end, one for the warm end.

    I'd suggest feeding in the cage, and not handling at all for about 3 consecutive and successful feedings. This will ensure your snake is eating properly before beginning the stresses of handling.

    You want a heat gradient in the vive, so one end should be around 80F and the other 90F, or at least the hot spot at 90F. Which is where that thermostat comes in handy.
    The heat bulb would work better for you in the vive, as you can leave it on 24/7. As you've mentioned, heat drops at night aren't necessary. Anything below 75F is not safe, and can cause respiratory infections.

    That popping noise could be the start of an RI, or it could be something else. I'm no expert there. Keep an eye on it though, and check out some more threads. Hopefully someone with more experience there can chime in!
    The cyprus mulch and vines sound great. Do you have digital thermometers to check the cool and warm ends? Do you have a digital hygrometer to check humidity?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Forgot to add, if you are using a mesh lid, make sure there are clips/locks on it, or some very heavy weights for every corner! Snakes are escape artists. If they can get out, they will.
    Last edited by NH93; 02-09-2014 at 02:16 PM.
    Don't let anyone, ever, make you feel like you don't deserve what you want. - Heath Ledger

  3. #3
    Registered User mere_dith's Avatar
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    I will definitely check out that thermostat and get some more hides, thanks so much! I actually fed him the night before last and it only took about two minutes for him to go after the f/t mouse and I was so excited. He's been curled up on the cool side since he ate but I have seen him come out to get little drinks and he seems fine. But I did decide to feed him in the cage and I'm so glad I did.


    Thanks again!

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