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some thermostats regulate the temperature by just switching the heat on and off. for example it switches off when its 2 degrees above the target temperature, and switches on when its two degrees below the target temperature.
other, more advanced thermostats can actually run the heater at 25% energy output or at 50%, it doesnt switch on and off anymore, instead it plays around with the energy output.
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Registered User
Re: HydroFarm
Thanks all! I'll try the foul tape as well as eventually look into a better thermostat, but for my first reptile I wanted to try and save a little money
Not it to hijack my own thread but.... Just a quick question, I have a tank, UTH and over head light on the cool side, obviously humidity is an issue, I plan on foiling the top but will a humid hide help for times when I'm not available? With my work schedule, once or twice a month a go away for 1-3 days.
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Re: HydroFarm
 Originally Posted by mike_yorkpa
Thanks all! I'll try the foul tape as well as eventually look into a better thermostat, but for my first reptile I wanted to try and save a little money
Not it to hijack my own thread but.... Just a quick question, I have a tank, UTH and over head light on the cool side, obviously humidity is an issue, I plan on foiling the top but will a humid hide help for times when I'm not available? With my work schedule, once or twice a month a go away for 1-3 days.
Yes, humid hide should work fine. A lot of people use them.
One thing I've been experimenting with is a "humidity box". I took a ziploc food container and stuffed it with sphagnum moss, put about a 1/4 inch of water in the bottom, and poked holes in the top so it would release humidity more consistently and at a slower pace. I'll know when he sheds in the next couple months how well it worked or not.
-Yar 
1.0.0 Albino Black Rat snake(Wafer)
0.0.1 California King snake(Oreo)
0.0.1 African Housesnake(Cupcake)
0.0.1 Honduran Milk snake(Blackjack)
0.0.2 Normal BP(Petey; Twix)
0.0.1 Yellow Rat Snake(Dijon)
0.0.1 Madagascar Speckled Hognose(Granola)[RIP]
1.0.0 Albino Nelson's Milk snake(Candy Cane)
1.0.0 Lesser BP(Creme Brulee)
1.0.0 Mojo BP(Brownie)
0.1.0 Black Motley Corn snake(Anisette)
0.0.1 Pueblan Milk snake[Fostering, Taco Grande]
0.1.0 West African Mud Turtle(Bulger)
0.2.0 Red Eared Slider(Squirtle, Turtwig)
1.0.0 Rat Terrorier(Ranger)
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The Following User Says Thank You to Pyrate81 For This Useful Post:
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Registered User
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Re: HydroFarm
 Originally Posted by Pyrate81
If it's doing it every 5 minutes it sounds like the temperature is dropping too fast or there isn't a large enough gap between the temp you want it at and the temp you want it to turn on(make sense?). If you want a temp threshold.
I would try a couple things:
1. Read the manual and see if you can set it to turn on at a specific temperature. Like mine is set to 100 but clicks on at 95. Size of heat pad may make a difference in as well.
2. Possibly insulate it with foil tape. I've found foil tape helps make the hot spot a little larger and keeps the heat from dissipating into the air.
With the Hydrofarms, they have a temp swing as wide as ± 5 degrees of the set temp. So, probably shouldn't use them on an incubator, but for cages that's what they do and they do adjust some what.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk
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The Following User Says Thank You to Kodieh For This Useful Post:
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Re: HydroFarm
I don't mean to be a stick in the mud here but don't handle that snake a lot. I would say it's too skinny for a snake of that size. Try and get some consistent meals into it before you start stressing it out with handling and what not.
I personally would never sell a snake that looked like that. The triangular cross section of the snake is a sign of either:
A) a problem feeder
B) lack of care from the breeder
C) improperly cared for at a pet store
My suggestion would be to try and feed every 5 days with a rat pink. If it eats no problem, then all my points are rendered moot.
Good luck. Keep us posted.
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Registered User
Re: HydroFarm
I'd rather you be a stick in the mud , I'm a new owner, if I post pics and something doesn't seem right to experienced owners then I want to know. The only handling done so far was picking him out of the container, snapping a quick picture and placing him in the tank.
he was received from a local pet store. According to them, they feed a mouse hopper 1 time a week, which was yesterday. When I went to the store he was squeezing the hopper so I told them id be back after work, which gave him 8-9 hours until I picked him up. When I asked about their feeding days and such they said he could have probably handled a small mouse. I am more interested in what you all have to say more though.
I was worried a little bit however that he wasn't interested in the hides at all. He explored a little bit then say behind the thermometer from 6pm until this morning 7am, of course he may have moved when I was sleeping. He's been staying on the cool side, 82-86 degrees
 Originally Posted by interloc
I don't mean to be a stick in the mud here but don't handle that snake a lot. I would say it's too skinny for a snake of that size. Try and get some consistent meals into it before you start stressing it out with handling and what not.
I personally would never sell a snake that looked like that. The triangular cross section of the snake is a sign of either:
A) a problem feeder
B) lack of care from the breeder
C) improperly cared for at a pet store
My suggestion would be to try and feed every 5 days with a rat pink. If it eats no problem, then all my points are rendered moot.
Good luck. Keep us posted.
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Registered User
Re: HydroFarm
He has no interest whatsoever in the UTH, he likes the cool side with the lamp so far.
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Firstly, congrats!
Secondly, I am glad s/he's in your care now. 1 mouse hopper a week is definitely not enough... clearly (as seen in the photos). Once you start feeding properly, s/he should gain weight no problem
Rats all the way! Of course if s/he doesn't take rats you can always do mice... but they require more of those, as they don't have the same fat/nutritional content for ball pythons as rats do.
My guess is that s/he didn't really have hides in the pet store. You can always try adding in some cardboard box cutouts (like half or 1/3 of a tissue box) or plastic containers with a doorway cut in, to save money on hides - especially with a young BP who will outgrow them quickly.
A humid hide/box is a great idea! Both my BP and corn love them. The BP is in there now, actually, in blue.
As for the Hydrofarm, as with everyone else pretty much, I agree that that's just what they do! I have two of them (one for each snake). What concerns me is that it's set to 101F but stays around 90F only... do you have a digital probed thermometer (apart from the probe attached to the thermostat) to check? I apologize if you've mentioned this already and I missed it.
Best of luck!
Don't let anyone, ever, make you feel like you don't deserve what you want. - Heath Ledger
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Re: HydroFarm
 Originally Posted by mike_yorkpa
he was received from a local pet store. According to them, they feed a mouse hopper 1 time a week, which was yesterday.
Sounds underfed. Mouse hoppers are tiny, usually used for the first couple of feedings and that's it.
I can't judge his size (weight in grams would make it easier), but I would bet he can easily eat at least an adult mouse every 5 days now. Might be big enough for rat pups.
He looks a little thin, but nothing that can't be easily fixed with a regular feeding schedule.
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