Does anyone make / sell homemade CO2 chambers or rodent racks online?

[artgecko]

Hey guys, title pretty much says it all. I am just starting my colony and won't be breeding for a few more months. When we do start to breed, I'll need a CO2 chamber and possibly a couple racks. I am probably the least "handy" person on earth, so I'm hoping to find someone that makes CO2 chambers and / or racks that is willing to sell me one. I can get the paintball CO2 canisters locally, but have no clue where to start with trying to build a chamber or rack.

If you know of anyone or have purchased from someone, please let me know.

Thanks!

[kc261]

You might be better off hiring a local handyman, and showing him some of the online plans that are available. It would be a quick & easy project for that kind of person, so it shouldn't cost too much, and that might be cheaper than shipping on such a big & bulky item. I can't offhand remember seeing rodent racks for sale. I know snake racks are available.

[Crazymonkee]

Sometimes there are rat racks for sale at our reptile show, never seen a CO2 chamber for sale

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[satomi325]

Just use a plastic container tote for the chamber and a hose line.

Put two holes into the container. Have one in the lid for oxygen escape and the other for the hose connected to the CO2 canister. The CO2 won't escape out that way since it's heavier than air.



As for racks, try looking at your local classifieds. Or ask a local breeder where they got their racks.

[artgecko]

Thanks for the input guys! I'll look around some more online. I could swear I saw someone selling rodent racks but can't remember the site...

satomi- That pic actually looks simpler than other CO2 chambers I've seen... What kind of CO2 canister is that and does the valve at the top come with it?

[Darkbird]

I believe ARS and Freedom breeder both make rodent versions of their racks, complete with food bins and watering systems, but I cant think of any others that do. Downside is as someone said, they're expensive, both in price and shipping. There may be a breeder close to you who builds their own, maybe they could be talked into making you one or two.

[satomi325]

satomi- That pic actually looks simpler than other CO2 chambers I've seen... What kind of CO2 canister is that and does the valve at the top come with it?

Some CO2 chambers have an extra hose going into a container of water for air escape and prevention of oxygen coming back into the chamber, but it's not necessary. All you really need is a container and CO2 canister.

It's not my picture, but the CO2 canister is one for welding. (I don't have a picture of my set up because it's usually in storage)
But most CO2 canisters are built the same way with a valve. If yours doesn't have a regulation valve, some folks use the ones for paint balling (http://www.shop4paintball.com/Remotes_s/77.htm)

[MrLang]

CO2 canister for Paintball coupled with a "remote release line" which is the part that screws on the canister and has a hose coming out. The hose will be threaded at the other end for where it screws into the gun, so what I did was buy a piece of 1/2 or 3/4 inch PVC and a piece to make it screw on to the hose and then make that piece go into the tub.

For the rack, rodentracks.com has plans for a rack that will only require a few tools and is quite easy to make.

There are 'professional' rodent housing tubs that you can buy but they're not cheap.

[WtGreg]

Make it yourself in all of 15 minutes:
SHOPPING LIST:
+Home Depot
- Get a tub or bucket. I use a 5 gallon bucket from Home Depot. I put a bunch in at once, so its height helps with the ones already in to not jump out. If smaller quantity, use smaller tub to save gas.
- if bucket, get sealing screw top (available in bucket aisle at HD). If tub, get one with sealing top. Do not use a normal bucket lid as they snap in place and are gonna be frustrating
- Sealer: JB weld, E-6000, or both (E-6000 is a sealant/adhesive, JB-weld is an epoxy) (JBweld is the easiest to work with. Also if you ever need to take apart in future, it will break off easier than E-6000. E-6000 does a great job at sealing, but is runny. That said, JBweld has 2 parts that have to be mixed, thus making e-6000 faster and easier as you just use straight from tube. I recommend JBwelb for beginners short of the having to mix it.)
- 3/16" to 1/2" tubing (OPTIONAL)

+Sporting good store
-go to ****s or other store and get a paintball remote line with detachable adapter (example: http://www.****ssportinggoods.com/pr...342723.4414642 )
-CO2 tank (filled)

ASSEMBLY (easy as 1,2,3):
1: In the side of the tub drill a hole small enough for a snug fit of the adapter end of the paintball remote line. I have mine low, since CO2 falls you can have it higher, but if using the bucket, don't put at top.
2: Thread the adapter (detached from hose) into place in this hole from the outside of the tub toward the inside 3/4 of the way in. In the gap you just created, put small amount of the sealer you chose. Thread the adapter the rest of the way in, snug and flush. Seal the inside of the bucket where the adapter comes in, so just put a nice layer around the edge.
3: In the lid of the bucket put a small hole. THIS IS IMPORTANT! If you have no hole to release the air, pressure will build and the setup will BLOW UP!

OPTIONAL (i don't do this, but have had it recommended to me): instead of that hole in the top, put a length of tubing about an inch through and seal in place. (this is where e-6000 shines since it will hold better to the tubing, but will need a couple applications as it will flatten and thin due to it's viscosity(it's runny)). Allow about 2+feet of tubing to come out and cut to size later. The tubing can then run into a glass or small bucket of water. When the air is released into the bucket, the CO2 will settle and the breathable air will push out of the tube. The water will keep it from returning back into the tube, and thus the bucket.
If not using a tube: I see multiple holes on the setup pictured before. I would recommend against multiple so you can cover the hole to prevent air from coming back in, but that's also solved with this tubing method.

NOTE: you can try this all without sealer as well, it will hold if things are snug.

So I use a huge CO2 tank, the kind that you see with coke machines (I need the size because I go through ALOT of rats). The disadvantage is it is high pressure with less control. I always have to start with the top off because of the pressure. The remote line I posted is nice because it fits on that big tank if I add a rubber grommet to fill the internal gap. If that runs low, it fits right back on my backup tank which is a larger paintball tank. With all that, I recommend sticking to a paintball tank. It is safest and easier to control the flow of the air (even with the hole at the top, the pressure from the large tank could blow up the chamber). Between its universal nature and the easy release from the adapter, I do recommend that model line. Do not make the line yourself. If you use the wrong line, it could pop. The line on that item is something like 3000PSI, and can withstand the cold from the CO2. So all in all, get the right line for the job.

Anyways, when you first use, keep the top off the chamber to get a feel for the pressure and speed of release. The control on that remote line with a paintball tank is real smooth and easy, so you would have to be really trying hard to do something like blow the chamber even with the top on.

I feel I am leaving something out, but don't see it, so all I have to say is good luck!

[WtGreg]

Rat Rack: Use google to find a variety of sites with some plans. I am not going to post all that because if you aren't handy, the best thing is to get it prebuilt.

Thaat said, I do have thoughts that come to mind from when I first built one ever.

I have my own plans I use every time, stored with parts, wood spacers, etc. I keep them all together so when I need to use them, I can whip a rack together quickly. If you find that you need to create spacers, plans with dimensions, etc then hold on to ALL of that. I threw it all away the first time and then had to redo it all the second.

Use thicker cement mixing tubs, not sterilite bins. Do not use tubs with grooves or holes. Rats chew through them. The tubs at my local Home Depot have grooves, the ones at my local ACE has a hole. Lowes are flat and smooth. Which do you think I use?

There are plans out there for a base-supported rack where plywood is used to support the tub instead of side rails. The tubs will bow at the bottom using the side rails. If this bothers you, use base support. It saves money to do the rails though.

Run the watering line down one side of the rack. From the main line, start the line to each level high and going downward to the rack level. I followed directions on my first rack ever where the tube zig-zagged across the front of each level, then the line to that level from the main line curved up before curving back down into each level. A waste of line, and a pain in the ass.

Use clear water lines. You want to be able to see air bubbles or buildup inside the line.

Use as transparent of buckets as you can for the water supply. Use a size that you can manage while full. Have a valve control coming from the bucket.

Have a release valve at the end of the line. If you have to clear the line, this is a good thing to have.

These racks are real easy to build, and alot of what I just said may seem mundane info for a person who has built these before, but I know these were all mistakes I made when I first build a rack.