A few last minute questions!

[bumblebee1028]

Hi everyone,

Two of my sisters and I are planning to get our first ball pythons this weekend. I’ve been researching like crazy for the past few months, and we just finished building a melamine rack for the 3 snakes this past weekend. Everything is set up, but I have a few questions.

1. The temperatures are ranging from 78-80F on the cool side, and 90-92F in the hide on the warm side (above the heat tape). Humidity is ranging from about 57-59% (I went ahead and filled one of the water bowls to test the humidity, and have not misted at all). These are all being measured with an Acurite thermometer/hydrometer. I know that the recommended humidity is 50-60%, and I’m a little concerned because the humidity is so close to the upper end of the range. Will adding the snake make the humidity in the bin go up? What level of humidity is actually too much?

2. Is it a problem to buy snakes from different breeders at the same time (quarantine-wise)? We’re hoping to purchase all three balls from the same breeder, but obviously won’t decide until we get there.

3. Since we’re new to snakes and we haven’t handled snakes much, do you think it would be a good idea to have a snake hook on hand (probably for peace of mind more than anything else)?

4. Have you ever had a ball python strike at you and not let go? When I was researching sand boas, I read somewhere that having bitter apple spray on hand isn’t a bad idea in case of this happening. I haven’t heard anything like this mentioned on BP.net, and I’m wondering if it’s entirely unnecessary (for either ball pythons or snakes in general).

5. We have two thermostats – a Herpstat 1, and a Hydrofarm that we’re using as a backup (the Herpstat is plugged into the Hydrofarm). I currently have the Herpstat set at 92F, and the Hydrofarm set at 95. I believe that the Hydrofarm one shuts off when the temps reach 2 degrees over the set temperature (so it would shut off at 97, correct?). If my notes are correct, the maximum temp for a ball python is 95F, so the Hydrofarm should be set to 93F, right?

I think that’s all for now

[dr del]

1.

That sounds ok to me.

Are all the tubs at the same temps/ humidity?

2.

It could be yes. Ideally getting them all from the same collection would be best.

3.

I probably wouldn't bother - ball pythons aren't really that bad.

4.

Only when I smelled like food. You can also spray them with water if they hang on. If they are hatchlings then bites are more of a shock than anything else.

5.

I'd keep the settings you have already - 97f isn't going to do them any physical harm.

[Physician&Snakes]

Hi everyone,

Two of my sisters and I are planning to get our first ball pythons this weekend. I’ve been researching like crazy for the past few months, and we just finished building a melamine rack for the 3 snakes this past weekend. Everything is set up, but I have a few questions.

1. The temperatures are ranging from 78-80F on the cool side, and 90-92F in the hide on the warm side (above the heat tape). Humidity is ranging from about 57-59% (I went ahead and filled one of the water bowls to test the humidity, and have not misted at all). These are all being measured with an Acurite thermometer/hydrometer. I know that the recommended humidity is 50-60%, and I’m a little concerned because the humidity is so close to the upper end of the range. Will adding the snake make the humidity in the bin go up? What level of humidity is actually too much?

As long as it is not drifting into the high 80s+ for extremely long periods of time, you should be fine.


2. Is it a problem to buy snakes from different breeders at the same time (quarantine-wise)? We’re hoping to purchase all three balls from the same breeder, but obviously won’t decide until we get there.

It can be riskier yes, but it is far from taboo or uncommon. I always keep a bottle of mite spray in the car so I can give new pickups a quick squirt before even heading home. Once home I weigh any new BPs, wipe them down with a touch more spray then straight to quarantine. Examine every animal personally before sliding money across the table and some portable hand sanitizer never hurts.

3. Since we’re new to snakes and we haven’t handled snakes much, do you think it would be a good idea to have a snake hook on hand (probably for peace of mind more than anything else)?

This is more my opinion than necessarily a direct answer, I would say no. With the species generally maxing out at around 5ft, adults and most children 10+ are threatened very little by the most aggressive ball and since you are acquiring three specimens I am going to guess you plan on breeding and/or extending your collection in the near future, if so it is very important that you become accustomed to direct contact with the animal so if you think you will end up using the hook as a "crutch" then do not get it. In all honesty, I would never approach an aggressive non-venomous snake with a hook simply because that's an easy mouth injury, I would use a nice thick roll of paper towels and someone within the room for back up if the specimen was over 9ft. I use my hook primarily for conditioning purposes with my retics, they see the hook and know it's not feeding time, no hook and open cage=food. You can do this with just about any recognizable object for your BPs if you want.

4. Have you ever had a ball python strike at you and not let go? When I was researching sand boas, I read somewhere that having bitter apple spray on hand isn’t a bad idea in case of this happening. I haven’t heard anything like this mentioned on BP.net, and I’m wondering if it’s entirely unnecessary (for either ball pythons or snakes in general).

Had a big 5ft female breeder latch onto me once, just took a few seconds under cold water to get her out of "feed mode". I think Bitter Apple was designed for mammalian pets so I would at least give customer service a call before I though of using it on a snake. Other keepers will use an alcohol soaked rag and various other strong smelling substances.

5. We have two thermostats – a Herpstat 1, and a Hydrofarm that we’re using as a backup (the Herpstat is plugged into the Hydrofarm). I currently have the Herpstat set at 92F, and the Hydrofarm set at 95. I believe that the Hydrofarm one shuts off when the temps reach 2 degrees over the set temperature (so it would shut off at 97, correct?). If my notes are correct, the maximum temp for a ball python is 95F, so the Hydrofarm should be set to 93F, right?

I am new to thermostats so due bear with me, I would not combine thermostats because a T-stat is designed to monitor a heating device, not another monitoring system. I would put the Hydrofarm to the side in case the Herpstat malfunctions suddenly...if you want to experiment with thermostat on thermostat on a test run then I guess the only backlash could be hurting one or both systems, working, or having no effect...before I tried it I would give Spyderrobotics a call and check.

I think that’s all for now

See bolded.

[satomi325]

1. The temperatures are ranging from 78-80F on the cool side, and 90-92F in the hide on the warm side (above the heat tape). Humidity is ranging from about 57-59% (I went ahead and filled one of the water bowls to test the humidity, and have not misted at all). These are all being measured with an Acurite thermometer/hydrometer. I know that the recommended humidity is 50-60%, and I’m a little concerned because the humidity is so close to the upper end of the range. Will adding the snake make the humidity in the bin go up? What level of humidity is actually too much?

High humidity is alight as long as you have good air flow and there is no standing moisture on the sides and floor of the enclosure. It's a combination of high humidity and stagnant air that can be bad.

2. Is it a problem to buy snakes from different breeders at the same time (quarantine-wise)? We’re hoping to purchase all three balls from the same breeder, but obviously won’t decide until we get there.

No. Just treat it like they're all going into the same quarantine(QT) room. It's only when they're out of QT and obtain new snakes that you should be more worried and take other precautions to keep your resident animals safe. And if they're from the same facility, it shouldn't really matter since they're all exposed to the same thing right now anyway.

3. Since we’re new to snakes and we haven’t handled snakes much, do you think it would be a good idea to have a snake hook on hand (probably for peace of mind more than anything else)?

It's a personal preference. You can if you want, but it's probably not needed. I've never used a snake hook for a ball python. They're such a docile slow species in general.

4. Have you ever had a ball python strike at you and not let go? When I was researching sand boas, I read somewhere that having bitter apple spray on hand isn’t a bad idea in case of this happening. I haven’t heard anything like this mentioned on BP.net, and I’m wondering if it’s entirely unnecessary (for either ball pythons or snakes in general).

Nope. If a ball python strikes, it's not because they're aggressive. It's usually due to 1)high food drive 2) being defensive/scared 3) accident.
Most don't actually hold on either, but just strike and coil back.

5. We have two thermostats – a Herpstat 1, and a Hydrofarm that we’re using as a backup (the Herpstat is plugged into the Hydrofarm). I currently have the Herpstat set at 92F, and the Hydrofarm set at 95. I believe that the Hydrofarm one shuts off when the temps reach 2 degrees over the set temperature (so it would shut off at 97, correct?). If my notes are correct, the maximum temp for a ball python is 95F, so the Hydrofarm should be set to 93F, right?

I think that’s all for now

I'm pretty sure the Hydrofarm has a 3 degree swing, but yeah, it should shut off roughly around your set temp.
The maximum safe temp for a ball python is 95, but what you set on your thermostat might not be the actual temp in your enclosure.For example, I have my Herpstat set for 97 to achieve a 90 degree hot spot in the enclosure. So adjust your Thermostat accordingly.

I am new to thermostats so due bear with me, I would not combine thermostats because a T-stat is designed to monitor a heating device, not another monitoring system. I would put the Hydrofarm to the side in case the Herpstat malfunctions suddenly...if you want to experiment with thermostat on thermostat on a test run then I guess the only backlash could be hurting one or both systems, working, or having no effect...before I tried it I would give Spyderrobotics a call and check..

It's ok to have a secondary thermostat to use as a back up in-case the main thermostat fails or malfunctions. Although the Herpstat is really good about failures. If it somehow malfunctions and fails, it turns into the off position and shuts off all heat by default. However, some other T-stats don't default to off and actually power the heating element to max heat, so it's good to have a back up secondary tstat for those.

[bumblebee1028]

Thanks for the quick replies! I didn't think we'd need a snake hook, and the bitter apple spray thing sounded a bit odd to me, so good to know

Are all the tubs at the same temps/ humidity?

I've only checked one tub (the middle one), but I will be checking the others tonight.

[bumblebee1028]

Alright, I've checked the temps and humidity in the two other tubs, and they are within the same range that I posted above (78-80F cool side, 90-92F hot spot, and 57-59%), but one did get to 81F on the cool side later in the day (not a big deal, I know). So it sounds like everything is good.

I do have two more questions:

1. I am going to try either F10SC or F10SCxd, and I'm wondering if F10SC has any benefits over F10SCxd. From what I've read, the F10SCxd is for cleaning and sanitizing, and the F10SC is for disinfecting. So I'm assuming that if I go with the F10SC, I would need to wash out the bins first, and then use the F10SC, while the F10SCxd is all one step. Is that correct? Which do you recommend - F10SC or F10SCxd?

2. I was reading on a thread yesterday that antibiotic cream without pain relievers is good to have on hand for first aid. I can only find antibiotic cream with pain relievers, and ointment without pain relievers. I checked with our pharmacy, and they said that Neosporin doesn't make antibiotic cream without pain relievers any more. Does anyone know where I could find the cream without pain relievers?

Thanks!

[NH93]

Everything sounds great to me!

Just make sure to be checking all of the tubs, as heat rises and there can be some variation between them.
However, mild variation and changes are to be expected!
Otherwise, the humidity is good (it can be upped to 70% for shedding). I don't think you'll have anything to worry about with too much humidity, simply because it doesn't sound like that'll happen. If there's an odd day here or there where it drops to below 50/40%, or bumps to above 70% (say, if it's raining outside and the humidity in the air is high in general) I think that would be totally fine, so long as it is not constant.

If you get the snakes all from the same place I don't see a real reason to quarentine, as they've already been in contact with each other - unless otherwise stated/advised by the breeder.

This may be difficult, but try not to walk into the whole snake-handling thing with a scared/nervous attitude. Be positive! It seems pretty infrequent that BPs bite, unless occasionally out of fear when they are hatchlings. Any animal with teeth can bite; I'd be much more nervous about a dog or cat bite than a snake bite! If you are nervous though, for peace of mind as you say, keep a glove handy. I personally don't think there is a need for a snake hook right away, especially if the snakes are little. Mind you, a bare hand will get them more used to you because they will be able to smell you and feel your warmth more-so than through a glove.

Best of luck to you and your sisters!

[bumblebee1028]

Everything sounds great to me!

Just make sure to be checking all of the tubs, as heat rises and there can be some variation between them.
However, mild variation and changes are to be expected!
Otherwise, the humidity is good (it can be upped to 70% for shedding). I don't think you'll have anything to worry about with too much humidity, simply because it doesn't sound like that'll happen. If there's an odd day here or there where it drops to below 50/40%, or bumps to above 70% (say, if it's raining outside and the humidity in the air is high in general) I think that would be totally fine, so long as it is not constant.

If you get the snakes all from the same place I don't see a real reason to quarentine, as they've already been in contact with each other - unless otherwise stated/advised by the breeder.

This may be difficult, but try not to walk into the whole snake-handling thing with a scared/nervous attitude. Be positive! It seems pretty infrequent that BPs bite, unless occasionally out of fear when they are hatchlings. Any animal with teeth can bite; I'd be much more nervous about a dog or cat bite than a snake bite! If you are nervous though, for peace of mind as you say, keep a glove handy. I personally don't think there is a need for a snake hook right away, especially if the snakes are little. Mind you, a bare hand will get them more used to you because they will be able to smell you and feel your warmth more-so than through a glove.

Best of luck to you and your sisters!

Thanks! I'm not too nervous about them (otherwise I wouldn't even think of getting one for a pet), but I thought I'd ask

Do you have any idea about my other two questions:

I do have two more questions:

1. I am going to try either F10SC or F10SCxd, and I'm wondering if F10SC has any benefits over F10SCxd. From what I've read, the F10SCxd is for cleaning and sanitizing, and the F10SC is for disinfecting. So I'm assuming that if I go with the F10SC, I would need to wash out the bins first, and then use the F10SC, while the F10SCxd is all one step. Is that correct? Which do you recommend - F10SC or F10SCxd?

2. I was reading on a thread yesterday that antibiotic cream without pain relievers is good to have on hand for first aid. I can only find antibiotic cream with pain relievers, and ointment without pain relievers. I checked with our pharmacy, and they said that Neosporin doesn't make antibiotic cream without pain relievers any more. Does anyone know where I could find the cream without pain relievers?

Thanks!

[Physician&Snakes]

Alright, I've checked the temps and humidity in the two other tubs, and they are within the same range that I posted above (78-80F cool side, 90-92F hot spot, and 57-59%), but one did get to 81F on the cool side later in the day (not a big deal, I know). So it sounds like everything is good.

I do have two more questions:

1. I am going to try either F10SC or F10SCxd, and I'm wondering if F10SC has any benefits over F10SCxd. From what I've read, the F10SCxd is for cleaning and sanitizing, and the F10SC is for disinfecting. So I'm assuming that if I go with the F10SC, I would need to wash out the bins first, and then use the F10SC, while the F10SCxd is all one step. Is that correct? Which do you recommend - F10SC or F10SCxd?

I have always used soap and water so no help here.

2. I was reading on a thread yesterday that antibiotic cream without pain relievers is good to have on hand for first aid. I can only find antibiotic cream with pain relievers, and ointment without pain relievers. I checked with our pharmacy, and they said that Neosporin doesn't make antibiotic cream without pain relievers any more. Does anyone know where I could find the cream without pain relievers?

If you look on the back of most over the counter meds you will see where the purpose of every active ingredient is listed, look for one that does not include pain relief and you should be fine.

Thanks!

See bolded.

[satomi325]

Alright, I've checked the temps and humidity in the two other tubs, and they are within the same range that I posted above (78-80F cool side, 90-92F hot spot, and 57-59%), but one did get to 81F on the cool side later in the day (not a big deal, I know). So it sounds like everything is good.

I do have two more questions:

1. I am going to try either F10SC or F10SCxd, and I'm wondering if F10SC has any benefits over F10SCxd. From what I've read, the F10SCxd is for cleaning and sanitizing, and the F10SC is for disinfecting. So I'm assuming that if I go with the F10SC, I would need to wash out the bins first, and then use the F10SC, while the F10SCxd is all one step. Is that correct? Which do you recommend - F10SC or F10SCxd?

I don't use F10, but I'm pretty sure most people use the SC one.

2. I was reading on a thread yesterday that antibiotic cream without pain relievers is good to have on hand for first aid. I can only find antibiotic cream with pain relievers, and ointment without pain relievers. I checked with our pharmacy, and they said that Neosporin doesn't make antibiotic cream without pain relievers any more. Does anyone know where I could find the cream without pain relievers?

Thanks!

It can be generic brand antibiotic cream without pain relievers. It doesn't have to be Neosporin specifically. And if you use the ointment, it's for very very light use only. Like a one or two time application type of thing. Excess use will make the scales soft and flake off.