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BPnet Veteran
Question Regarding PVC Cages and Hot Spots
So I'm looking into getting a PVC cage, specifically this one: http://pvccages.com/?wpsc-product=36...quick-assembly
My dilemma is I eventually want to get a stand for the cage but the stand doesn't allow any room for heat mats when the cages are stacked. Does the hot spot need to be created from the ground? Or will a 40W RHP be sufficient and maybe replacing the built-in light with an infrared if possible? Planning for my future snake collection too here haha
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Banned
Dude,your having problems with just a tank,lol,why don't you focus on one thing at a time.? Learn how to somewhat master each type of enclosure,instead of hopping around
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First of all PVC cages are much easier for the types of problems he's having.
No under heat is not necessary but it is preferred for balls. But some people do use the RHP as long as it creates the correct temp. I would not go infrared or you'll have the same humidity issues
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BPnet Veteran
If a tank isn't ideal I don't plan on messing with it for long. I can afford a professional set up for my snake right now, which is rare but I can. Why not ditch the crappy tank that he will outgrow in a year and get something he can live in for the rest of his life? My tank is only 10G.
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Question Regarding PVC Cages and Hot Spots
 Originally Posted by Crazymonkee
First of all PVC cages are much easier for the types of problems he's having.
No under heat is not necessary but it is preferred for balls. But some people do use the RHP as long as it creates the correct temp. I would not go infrared or you'll have the same humidity issues
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Yeah I've noticed the infrared does a much bigger number on humidity than the daylight bulb.
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Re: Question Regarding PVC Cages and Hot Spots
I have Boamasters with RHP's to maintain the minimum ambient temperature. The belly heat/hot spot problem is similar as heat tape under the enclosure simply won't work as the melamine floor is too dense. I use these mats for creating a hot spot/belly heat: http://www.bigappleherp.com/Intellit...=2&category=14. As an FYI I ran it unregulated for a few days outside of the enclosure to see just how hot it would get, it topped at 130*F so it definitely needs to be regulated. I have the mats and the RHP's on their own t-stats.
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Heat tape is very thin, there is no problem with stacking cages/placing a cage on a stand when using heat tape:


~Aaron
0.1 Pastel 100% Het Clown Ball Python (Hestia)
1.0 Coastal/Jungle Carpet Python (Shagrath)
0.1 Dumeril's Boa (Nergal)
0.1 Bearded Dragon (Gaius)
1.0 Siberian Husky (Picard)
0.1 German Shepherd/Lab Mix (Jadzia)
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Registered User
Re: Question Regarding PVC Cages and Hot Spots
 Originally Posted by Dev_DeCoste
If a tank isn't ideal I don't plan on messing with it for long. I can afford a professional set up for my snake right now, which is rare but I can. Why not ditch the crappy tank that he will outgrow in a year and get something he can live in for the rest of his life? My tank is only 10G.
A lot of bp's don't do well in a nice big roomy cage, even with appropriate hides they will still stress out from the openness of the cage and quite feeding. If it fits in a 10gal right now, there is a very good chance that moving it into a cage large enough to suit it for life as an adult will negatively affect your animal. I think every breeder I know, myself included, at some point in time has had to move a bp back down in cage/tub size to a tub that it should have outgrown to get it feeding again, even when just stepping it up to a tub size that would still be appropriate and not into one oversized for it like you're considering doing.
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What about dividing in half until it grows?
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Re: Question Regarding PVC Cages and Hot Spots
 Originally Posted by rascal_rascal_99
A lot of bp's don't do well in a nice big roomy cage, even with appropriate hides they will still stress out from the openness of the cage and quite feeding. If it fits in a 10gal right now, there is a very good chance that moving it into a cage large enough to suit it for life as an adult will negatively affect your animal. I think every breeder I know, myself included, at some point in time has had to move a bp back down in cage/tub size to a tub that it should have outgrown to get it feeding again, even when just stepping it up to a tub size that would still be appropriate and not into one oversized for it like you're considering doing.
I now have three young snakes around the 120-150g range in divided T8s. That' 2'L x 2'W X 1'H. All eat for me just fine. The key is to put fake plants in there to clutter it up. I just got a girl the other day. She was in a rack system and went straight to the divided T8 upon getting her. She ate for me two days after having gotten here and dealing with the change of scenery and a lot more space. To me it's a waste to have to buy enclosures as they grow. Buy one that is appropriate for it full grown and keep it cluttered. I take plants out as they grow. My adult just has his one hide and his water bowl.
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