Don't know boas, can they eat eggs?

[Surrealle]

Thank you.. I wish I could get it but I had to empty my bank account just to get enough to make an offer, which he rejected. I think I probably pissed him off on the process, not that I care. I hope someone here will have better luck but I don't know if anyone is trying. At this point, my only chance of getting it is if the owner has a change of heart in a few weeks and doesn't get a better offer.

I suspect it has a good body condition from its previous owner, though I really have no idea how long it's been forced to eat eggs if it's been "kept in the family".

*sigh* Fingers crossed that things get better for the snake soon. As much as I'd love having a boa, I wouldn't have been able to keep such a large snake permanently. (I'm in the military). My goal was just to rehab him and find a good forever home for him, even if that meant giving him away for free.

[Surrealle]

Update:

Well, I heard back from him (he was having phone issues, apparently). I negotiated him down in price enough for it to work for me, so if he still has the snake by Tuesday (when I get paid), I'll go get it!

I'll probably end up selling him for 50 or 75ish once he's rehabbed and eating well, which is less than I'm paying but hopefully a reasonable price. I'm more concerned with finding a proper home for him, but if I can get a least a little money back it would be helpful.

Fingers crossed that this pans out!

[Evenstar]

I sure hope this works out for you and that snake!! Please keep us posted!

[Surrealle]

Me too.. I have a 36x16x18 inch tank that I originally bought for my bp to grow into, that I know is not ideal for this guy but hopefully will work for a few weeks at least. I'll be able to get an under tank heater fairly easily, and I have a thermostat I can use for him as well. Is there anything else I would need for the tank to start? Do they like to soak, or will a small water dish suffice? I'm assuming I'd feed him rats, and start him slow/small at first.. (With any luck it will take f/t, but if I have to I'll start with live.. *shudder* lol). Should I start trying to feed him the day after I get him? And how often after that, to get him going? From the sounds of things--I haven't asked directly--but it sounds like the chicken egg thing has been a recent development due to hard times, so I'd like to think the snake hasn't been on them for longer than a few months.

My bf was able to find a reptile vet that might do a checkup for free or reduced price, which would be awesome. I'm excited, and nervous. It's going to be hard not getting attached, I would love to keep him forever but I don't know if that's realistic =/. If I get deployed, getting a long-term petsitter for a little ball python will be difficult enough, I have no idea if it's possible for a 6 foot snake. Oh well.. One step at a time, eh? Lol

Anyways, thanks in advance for any advice, although I'm just looking for the basics at the moment. I don't want to trouble anyone for paragraphs of info or tips until I actually have the snake. Anything could still happen right now.

[Evenstar]

Yes, lol, one step at a time.

The caging will be fine for now. Sounds like you have a good plan in mind. If it's kept clean, that'll make all the difference to him at this point. I would find a way to cover the screen top most of the way to help hold in heat and humidity - especially humidity. He may come to you dehydrated.

Boas will soak, but it isn't strictly necessary. I'd give him a large bowl, but one that doesn't take up all the space in that tank. Ceramic is best - boas like to spill their water....

I would personally pick up a bottle of Reptile Spray from Rich at Reptile Basics. This is excellent against mites and is much safer than PAM. When you get him, spray him down lightly as a preventative. Keep him on newspaper or corrugated cardboard for his entire q/t period at least.

Provide a large hide box. He may not use it, but if he does, he'll feel more secure.

Find out when he last ate (egg or otherwise). Wait at least one week from his last feeding. If he ate an egg, I would actually wait a little longer and see if he defecates for you before you feed again. Give him a chance to clear out some of that shell. If he ate more than a week prior to you getting him, wait 3-4 days until you try. Let him settle in a little and get used to his new home. They aren't as touchy as ball pythons in this department, but considering his background, he may need some TLC.

DO feed him slightly smaller prey. Start easy. If he will eat an inanimate egg, he ought to go for f/t so I'd give that a shot first. It's hard to tell just how big he is, but a rat is going to be easier to digest than an egg, so I'd start with a rat that is about or slightly smaller than an egg.

I know we still need to see if you actually get him, but I thought I'd answer a few of your questions now so you could be more prepared before you bring him home. Good luck!!

[Surrealle]

Thank you very much! There's a chance I'll get him tomorrow (bf surprised me by wanting to get him early), so your advice came just in time! I already have a stash of f/t rat pups that I could use right away, maybe giving two at the first feeding because they're small. (Obviously, I won't try to trick or force him into taking two, I'll offer them separately and see if he wants both. Like you, I'm thinking/hoping he'll have no problem with f/t rats if he's desperate enough for eggs.) I hadn't considered that he'd be digesting the shell, I guess I had the impression that he'd cough it up like regular egg-eating snakes do. Sounds like that would be wicked uncomfortable coming out at the other end, eesh.

One more question.. Do they bask at all or will the UTH be sufficient? I'm in LA so humidity is usually 50-70% naturally, which helps.

Will post pics when I get him!

Edit: Oh, and for what it's worth, I was a bit of a clean freak before I joined the mil, and basic definitely intensified that.. Keeping him clean, at least, will be no problem. Lol

[Evenstar]

I would only feed him one rat for his first feeding even if it is small and even if he wants it. Go slow. If he does well, you can feed him another in 10 days. It will not hurt him to go slow. Since he may not be used to rats, you don't want him to regurge - that will do more harm.

Keep in mind that boas are NOT ball pythons. They have a much slower metabolism and do better on the "less is more" feeding philosophy.

If the UTH will maintain your temps properly on it's own, then that is all you'll need. Boas do well with belly heat.

[Surrealle]

Okay, sounds good. I thought since the rat pups are so small that he would do better with two.

[bcr229]

Boas will soak, but it isn't strictly necessary. I'd give him a large bowl, but one that doesn't take up all the space in that tank. Ceramic is best - boas like to spill their water....

This! Though I found the best way to stop spills was to use a shallow plastic tub with a large footprint, and fill it up only 1/3-1/2 of the way. It allows them to soak if they want and even my 7' BCI girl hasn't dumped hers, and she's notorious for redecorating...