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BPnet Veteran
Calcium content-Adult mice versus weaned rats
Recently had a vet come by to do the first checkup on my two girls (BPs) and he said they both seemed healthy but slightly skinny. The main one in concern is about 350g, and I feed her a f/t weaned rat pup (30-40g) once a week. She absolutely houses them and acts normally after, as though she could probably eat more. But as I understand it, this is an appropriate amount of food for her.
Anyway, the vet recommended that rather than feeding weaned rats, I feed adult mice of a similar size. He says that adult rodents have more calcium content than juveniles. I don't want to make the switch if I don't have to, however, because a) I've got a ton of frozen rats and b) I don't want my snakes to get spoiled and stop accepting rats, when that's ultimately what I'll want to feed them as adults. I've been extremely lucky getting them off live onto frozen and don't wanna mess that up.
Questions:
Should I make the switch from juvie rats to adult mice for increased calcium content?
If not, should I put a dab of calcium powder (the kind I use for my turtles) on the f/t rat pups? (I have no idea if this would make them hesitate to eat it, or would even be beneficial/harmful.)
Should I be feeding her more than I am? Like maybe twice a week for a couple of months?
The vet didn't seem to think her problem was severe, but he pointed out that he could feel her spine a bit more sharply than would be ideal. Like not a major concern, but he wanted me to be aware.
As always, THANKS!
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If she is eating rats, DO NOT give her mice because there is a good chance that she will never eat rats again. It's simple... Feed her more rats!
If they are hungry, let them eat.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Coopers Constrictors For This Useful Post:
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Calcium content-Adult mice versus weaned rats
 Originally Posted by Coopers Constrictors
If she is eating rats, DO NOT give her mice because there is a good chance that she will never eat rats again. It's simple... Feed her more rats!
If they are hungry, let them eat.
Well I mean, a lot of herps will just keep eating till the point of unhealthiness. My c. reimanni turtle will keep begging for food even if it's about to burst out of its shell.
I don't want to have an obese snake, just a thick, healthy one. So I'm trying to get a sense of if I'm feeding enough, or if I should maybe step it up a little for a little bit.
And still curious about the calcium content. But yeah, the vet says he has no problem switching his BPs between mice and rats but based on what I've already read on here, I suspect he's just lucky.
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Re: Calcium content-Adult mice versus weaned rats
I would continue with the rats and feed every five days instead of every seven, if your BP's will take food that often.
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The Following User Says Thank You to bcr229 For This Useful Post:
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With Ball Pythons prey Should be 10-15% Body mass so 300g will be able to Eat 40g weaned ray without problem or 2 20g pups... keep feeding the rats... Mouser are big pain In the but Especially when You need to feed adult ball with Multiple (3,4,5) retired breeders
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The Following User Says Thank You to Aes_Sidhe For This Useful Post:
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BPnet Veteran
Re: Calcium content-Adult mice versus weaned rats
 Originally Posted by Aes_Sidhe
With Ball Pythons prey Should be 10-15% Body mass so 300g will be able to Eat 40g weaned ray without problem or 2 20g pups... keep feeding the rats... Mouser are big pain In the but Especially when You need to feed adult ball with Multiple (3,4,5) retired breeders
OOOh, I didn't know they could do up to 15%. I thought like 10 was the limit. Good to know.
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BPnet Veteran
Yep, I'd stick with rats. There's too many known problems with BPs not wanting to eat rats after mice, so why risk it?
10-15% of their weight once a week is the general guideline. I really don't think there's enough of a difference in calcium content between the two to actually matter, and if your girls are skinny, you'd actually want the higher fat content of a young rat versus adult mouse.
If you post pics, we can help with whether or not they are in fact too thin. There are many people out there who think a BP should look like a blood python, so seeing a healthy BP can look "skinny" sometimes. Not to mention that if they are only 350 grams, they are still babies. As they grow, they can go through odd growth spurts that make them seem thin until the rest of their body catches up to them.
A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. ~ Herm Albright
The current zoo:
Pets
2.1 Felis catus; 1.2 Ringneck Doves; 1.1 Budgies; bunches o' Rats/Mice (pets and feeders);
2.1 BCI; 1.0 BP; 1.0 Corn; 1.0 Honduran Milksnake; 1.0 Brazilian Rainbow Boa; 0.1 Dumeril's Boa; 1.0 Texas Ratsnake; 1.0 Calico Black Ratsnake; 1.1 Western Hognose; 0.1 Beardie; 0.1 Tawny Plated Lizard; 1.0 Blue-Tongue Skink; 0.1 Crestie; 0.1 Spiny-tailed Iguana; 0.0.1 Chaco Striped Knee Tarantula
Fosters/Rescues
2.0 BCI
0.2.2 BP
1.0 Corn
1.0 Red-Foot Tortoise
1.0 Greek Tortoise
0.0.10 Leopard Tortoises
0.0.1 Asian Vine Snake
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The first question is did you have two fecals done?
(one fecal exam may not be definitive)
It is possible the snake could have a parasite. 10-15% is normal feeding. Snakes of this size a five day feeding interval is typical not 7 it does add up. If the animal seems hungry in between an extra here and there isn't a big deal.
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