My New Snake!

[I-KandyReptiles]

Seriously...READ THE CARESHEET..

[Mephibosheth1]

It may be that Zombietox understands better if she reads individual answers to her questions (I know I have a hard time with care sheets myself)




Zombie, first things first. The heat mat should be attached to the bottom of your tank. I peel the cover off the heat pad (also called a ITH) and take metal foil tape and attach it to the sticky side of the hear pad. That way I can use extra tape and attach it to the bottom of the tank without it being permanent. It goes on the bottom of the outside of the tank. If its having to be set half on and half off, it's too big for the tank.

Next, your thermostat. The Hydrofarm is great to start; that's what I have on my tank. Easy to use and easy to get on Amazon. That way it will regulate the temperature for you, and you won't have to keep checking it every hour

Now for thermometer/hygrometers. Infrared heat guns are good. I haven't got one yet; I use an Accurite 00891 model, which can be gotten from Walmart for $12.00 I think...really cheap. It has a remote probe that can be placed under the substrate in the tank on the hot side, and the body of the thermometer can be placed on the substrate at the cold end. The digital readout will tell you humidity, hot temp and cold temp.

i hope that helps; if you have any questions on what I wrote feel free to ask me

[I-KandyReptiles]

Fine.

TANK:

Any type of heat sure, whether it's a lamp or heat pad MUST be regulated. Heat pads will reach unsafe temperatures in a matter of minutes. You MUST have a thermostat.

The best you can buy are herpstats.
http://www.spyderrobotics.com

The cheaper option:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...ords=Hydrofarm

When you get your thermoSTAT, you plug your heat pad into it. You take your probe and secure it OVER the heat pad on the OUTSIDE of your tank.

Do NOT have the thermoSTAT probe inside the tank, as your snake can move it, pee on it, and will ultimately screw up your probe reading.

If you use a lamp, which most will suggest against, buy a light dimmer. They're about $10 from home depot and allow you to adjust how much heat is coming from the lamp.

Lamps will kill your humidity. Many will suggest covering half your lid with tinfoil/plexiglass/wet cloth. Misting will also help. Also, do not get white bulbs.

After your thermostat, a temp gun will be a wise investment. Or you can purchase a digital thermometer with probe. Many will suggest an Accurite, while others disagree. If you get an Accurite, you place the entire unit in the cage. The probed bit will be secured on top of the glass over your heat pad so you are able to monitor and be sure your thermostat is working properly. The unit goes on your "cool" side to monitor ambient temperatures.

You are aiming for:

Hot spot: 88-91 degrees
Cool side: 78-80 degrees
Humidity: 50%

When your snake goes into shed, you will need to boost your humidity up to 60-70%.

Inside your tank you will need:

-two identical hides. Find ones that are small enough to wrap your ball python around all sides and only have one entrance. Those log hides at the pet stores are terrible. One goes on the warm side, the other on the cool side.

-Water dish. If you get a large water dish, you can place it somewhat over your heat pad to help even more with humidity.

-Proper substrate. If you are using a tank, id suggest Eco earth or coco fibre as they help hold in humidity.

TUBS:

If you are able to keep your room at a stable 80 degrees, you will be able to keep your ball python in a tub set up.

Tub set ups may not be the prettiest, but are much easier to maintain humidity than a tank.

Find a large Rubbermaid container with a locking lid. Depending on your room humidity, drill holes along the sides using a soldering drill. The amount of holes will vary. Be careful as you can add more, but can't cover them up if you drill too many.

Just like a tank, you will place the heat pad on one side of the tub, with the thermoSTAT probe over the heat tape. With a thermostat, you will not have to worry about the tub melting as it should never get over 92 degrees.

Set your tub up like a tank. Add your substrate, water dish, hides and thermometers. You can also add fake leaves and branches.

FEEDING:

You'd be surprised to learn that hatchling ball pythons can eat hopper sized mice right out of the egg.

I'd suggest going to Walmart and picking up a cheap kitchen scale to monitor your baby's weight.

Babies can generally eat 10-15% of their weight every 5-7 days.

I feed my mouse eaters and babies on a 5 day schedule. My rat eaters are fed every 7 days.

As your snake gets older, try to match their food with the thickest part of their body.

Once you get your set up done, leave your snake alone for a week. The only time you are in the cage is to change water and clean poo. No touching him/her. Once the week is over, offer your mouse. I'm sure they'll take it.

[MootWorm]

Great write up, very clear. The only thing I'd like to add is that if you accidentally put too many holes in your tub, they CAN be sealed. Just tackle that sucker with a hot glue gun

[Zombietox]

Fine.

TANK:

Any type of heat sure, whether it's a lamp or heat pad MUST be regulated. Heat pads will reach unsafe temperatures in a matter of minutes. You MUST have a thermostat.

The best you can buy are herpstats.
http://www.spyderrobotics.com

The cheaper option:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...ords=Hydrofarm

When you get your thermoSTAT, you plug your heat pad into it. You take your probe and secure it OVER the heat pad on the OUTSIDE of your tank.

Do NOT have the thermoSTAT probe inside the tank, as your snake can move it, pee on it, and will ultimately screw up your probe reading.

If you use a lamp, which most will suggest against, buy a light dimmer. They're about $10 from home depot and allow you to adjust how much heat is coming from the lamp.

Lamps will kill your humidity. Many will suggest covering half your lid with tinfoil/plexiglass/wet cloth. Misting will also help. Also, do not get white bulbs.

After your thermostat, a temp gun will be a wise investment. Or you can purchase a digital thermometer with probe. Many will suggest an Accurite, while others disagree. If you get an Accurite, you place the entire unit in the cage. The probed bit will be secured on top of the glass over your heat pad so you are able to monitor and be sure your thermostat is working properly. The unit goes on your "cool" side to monitor ambient temperatures.

You are aiming for:

Hot spot: 88-91 degrees
Cool side: 78-80 degrees
Humidity: 50%

When your snake goes into shed, you will need to boost your humidity up to 60-70%.

Inside your tank you will need:

-two identical hides. Find ones that are small enough to wrap your ball python around all sides and only have one entrance. Those log hides at the pet stores are terrible. One goes on the warm side, the other on the cool side.

-Water dish. If you get a large water dish, you can place it somewhat over your heat pad to help even more with humidity.

-Proper substrate. If you are using a tank, id suggest Eco earth or coco fibre as they help hold in humidity.

TUBS:

If you are able to keep your room at a stable 80 degrees, you will be able to keep your ball python in a tub set up.

Tub set ups may not be the prettiest, but are much easier to maintain humidity than a tank.

Find a large Rubbermaid container with a locking lid. Depending on your room humidity, drill holes along the sides using a soldering drill. The amount of holes will vary. Be careful as you can add more, but can't cover them up if you drill too many.

Just like a tank, you will place the heat pad on one side of the tub, with the thermoSTAT probe over the heat tape. With a thermostat, you will not have to worry about the tub melting as it should never get over 92 degrees.

Set your tub up like a tank. Add your substrate, water dish, hides and thermometers. You can also add fake leaves and branches.

FEEDING:

You'd be surprised to learn that hatchling ball pythons can eat hopper sized mice right out of the egg.

I'd suggest going to Walmart and picking up a cheap kitchen scale to monitor your baby's weight.

Babies can generally eat 10-15% of their weight every 5-7 days.

I feed my mouse eaters and babies on a 5 day schedule. My rat eaters are fed every 7 days.

As your snake gets older, try to match their food with the thickest part of their body.

Once you get your set up done, leave your snake alone for a week. The only time you are in the cage is to change water and clean poo. No touching him/her. Once the week is over, offer your mouse. I'm sure they'll take it.

Now that I think you understand my situation with understanding some things, I know through shred I need to keep humidity up a bit, and mist with a spray bottle being luke warm water and Oh I do have a hiding spot for him atm its too big Tomorrow I am getting a 10 Gal tank for him to live in for a bit, I have been informed to be prepared for him to get bigger faster which I am =)...... Wait wouldnt the water being near or on the heating pad make the water too hot? cause I heard that what your snake will use to cool off too.

Ok is there a place where I can know what weight I should feed him bigger?


and just wanted to thank Mephibosheth1 for understanding. Its kinda hard to explain myself properly and get the answers I am looking for >.<

[Anya]

Aww, Mephi, don't you feel all warm and fuzzy inside now?

OP, I'm really glad you're going to take steps to make your snakey happier! That's all we ever ask over here.

[Zombietox]

Today seems to be a better day for him put the prey in the cage, hes trying to strike it... Hes a little slow and he does not have a pinkie belly going on so I know hes not ready to shed... Could it just be he is still a youngin and learning how to eat his meal?




Oh and forgot to mention getting him in a bigger tank tonight its been 7 days pretty much, and I think it will be allot easier for him to eat in

[Zombietox]

Today seems to be a better day for him put the prey in the cage, hes trying to strike it... Hes a little slow and he does not have a pinkie belly going on so I know hes not ready to shed... Could it just be he is still a youngin and learning how to eat his meal?




Oh and forgot to mention getting him in a bigger tank tonight its been 7 days pretty much, and I think it will be allot easier for him to eat in

Mark that out the mouse started to startle him and eat the bedding i have o.O so I took him out