Fine.
TANK:
Any type of heat sure, whether it's a lamp or heat pad MUST be regulated. Heat pads will reach unsafe temperatures in a matter of minutes. You MUST have a thermostat.
The best you can buy are herpstats.
http://www.spyderrobotics.com
The cheaper option:
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...ords=Hydrofarm
When you get your thermoSTAT, you plug your heat pad into it. You take your probe and secure it OVER the heat pad on the OUTSIDE of your tank.
Do NOT have the thermoSTAT probe inside the tank, as your snake can move it, pee on it, and will ultimately screw up your probe reading.
If you use a lamp, which most will suggest against, buy a light dimmer. They're about $10 from home depot and allow you to adjust how much heat is coming from the lamp.
Lamps will kill your humidity. Many will suggest covering half your lid with tinfoil/plexiglass/wet cloth. Misting will also help. Also, do not get white bulbs.
After your thermostat, a temp gun will be a wise investment. Or you can purchase a digital thermometer with probe. Many will suggest an Accurite, while others disagree. If you get an Accurite, you place the entire unit in the cage. The probed bit will be secured on top of the glass over your heat pad so you are able to monitor and be sure your thermostat is working properly. The unit goes on your "cool" side to monitor ambient temperatures.
You are aiming for:
Hot spot: 88-91 degrees
Cool side: 78-80 degrees
Humidity: 50%
When your snake goes into shed, you will need to boost your humidity up to 60-70%.
Inside your tank you will need:
-two identical hides. Find ones that are small enough to wrap your ball python around all sides and only have one entrance. Those log hides at the pet stores are terrible. One goes on the warm side, the other on the cool side.
-Water dish. If you get a large water dish, you can place it somewhat over your heat pad to help even more with humidity.
-Proper substrate. If you are using a tank, id suggest Eco earth or coco fibre as they help hold in humidity.
TUBS:
If you are able to keep your room at a stable 80 degrees, you will be able to keep your ball python in a tub set up.
Tub set ups may not be the prettiest, but are much easier to maintain humidity than a tank.
Find a large Rubbermaid container with a locking lid. Depending on your room humidity, drill holes along the sides using a soldering drill. The amount of holes will vary. Be careful as you can add more, but can't cover them up if you drill too many.
Just like a tank, you will place the heat pad on one side of the tub, with the thermoSTAT probe over the heat tape. With a thermostat, you will not have to worry about the tub melting as it should never get over 92 degrees.
Set your tub up like a tank. Add your substrate, water dish, hides and thermometers. You can also add fake leaves and branches.
FEEDING:
You'd be surprised to learn that hatchling ball pythons can eat hopper sized mice right out of the egg.
I'd suggest going to Walmart and picking up a cheap kitchen scale to monitor your baby's weight.
Babies can generally eat 10-15% of their weight every 5-7 days.
I feed my mouse eaters and babies on a 5 day schedule. My rat eaters are fed every 7 days.
As your snake gets older, try to match their food with the thickest part of their body.
Once you get your set up done, leave your snake alone for a week. The only time you are in the cage is to change water and clean poo. No touching him/her. Once the week is over, offer your mouse. I'm sure they'll take it.
Originally Posted by Bobbafett
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