1. Boas sense heat via the thermoreceptive scales around the mouth. These aren't labial pits, but their function is similar.

2. Hypomelanism in boas is an incomplete dominant trait. Hypo boas are also referred to as salmon boas, but the name "Salmon boa" came from breeder Rich Ihle and was coined to describe his bloodline specifically, although many folks use the name to describe ANY hypo boa.

A hypo bred to a normal will theoretically yield 50% hypos & 50% normals. The normals that come from hypo breedings are just normals, not het for anything.

A hypo bred to a hypo will (once again, theoretically) give you 25% normals, 50% hypos and 50% super hypos. The "Supers" are not always visually different from the hypos, so they are usually sold as possible super hypos.

A super hypo bred to a normal will produce 100% hypos.

A super hypo bred to a hypo will produce (theoretically) half supers & half hypos. Once again, these may not always be visually discernable.



3. IBD - this is a very real concern, but if you're willing to purchase from a reputable source and follow strict quarantine procedures, it shouldn't deter you from getting a boa. If possible, don't house boas around pythons as a safety measure, or at least don't keep them on the same side of the room. If you keep both boas and pythons, complete husbandry tasks with the pythons first, and boas last, and ALWAYS rinse your hands and tools with a bleach/water solution between snakes (this is a good habit to be in even if you're not working with boas). Keep a separate set of husbandry tools - i.e. hooks, tongs, etc. that you use specifically for the boas, and do not switch them out or use them "in a pinch" for anything else. I keep boas & have for years, but I am also EXTREMELY picky about where they come from and I feel that has helped a lot.

K